Theo87

Members
  • Content count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Theo87

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Alberta
  1. OK, I'm winning the war with this bike. Lost a few battles to get here though. I put the float at 8mm and jetted as per the stock chart: N2ZJ (2 clip), 162, 38 PJ & AS 2 turns. Its pretty good. It still idles rough on steep hills but it doesn't completely stall anymore. Throttle response is good too. Once this experience wears off, I'll probably go back to the JD kit (I did pay $100 for it!). But for now I'm just gonna ride it and have some fun. My next Beta issue (never a dull moment with this bike...)is to solve the air bubbles in the oil line. As it runs, little bubbles are introduced into the line from the carb manifold. I can watch them form(almost a foam in the oil) as it idles. When the bike sits, they collect at the top of the inlet and they get big! Leaky reads to blame? Its like some piston compression defeats the power of the oil pump and forces air into the line. It only takes seconds for them to get pushed out into the engine so I haven't worried about the straight gas harming the engine...but maybe I should be? I've inspected the lines for kinks and they all look good- including the breather line.
  2. Thanks for the help you guys! I'm going to ditch the JD kit and refocus on the float and chart jetting. For those of you that have adjusted the float, did you go by a float height, or just level to the carb gasket surface as per the Beta manual? I've heard that the 8mm float height is better then the levelling method(which ends up around 6mm).
  3. That's good advice, I'll take it. I'm thinking I need to lower the float again and try once more with the near stock jetting. Thanks!
  4. Yes, I did set the float height. The bike pissed fuel when I got it. I adjusted it to 8.5mm (carb base to top of float when the fuel shut off was engaged- used the blow in a straw technique). Maybe I need to go more? What happens if I go too far? What are the things that caught your eyes for blaming the float?
  5. i bought & installed at the JD kit last week. It's for a '17 300rr. I used the chart as a guide. Within 20km I fouled a plug for the first time ever. Looks like its time to start tuning the carb yet again... A few questions: -which increment is larger, needle clip positions or main jet size? For example, I need to lean out. Am I better to leave the needle and go down in main jet, or vice versa? Should I just jump to the 6-9000' settings? -I also feel like I have a pilot jet problem, yet the JD kit only comes with the 38. The AS doesn't start to "sound" right until 2.5 turns(maxed) out & the bike still idles when its full in. Should I go to a 35 or 40? In what I think is a related problem, I have been battling an ongoing idle issue since I've owned the bike. Whenever I go down a hill, the bike stalls. The idle is turned all the way in on the carb. Thanks for any help in advance! Oh, I ride at about 4500' (1350m) and about 20 degrees celsius on average. The current JD settings are: blue/clip 2, P38, Mn162
  6. 2017 300RR, just rolled 400km and 27hours (all of it is rooty single track type stuff). My fork seals started leaking two rides ago. I've attempted to clean the seals twice now and haven't had much success. Today I took my third crack at cleaning them. This time I used the Motion Pro seal saver tool. It seemed like a lot of oil leaked out while I was cleaning...but no problem, kinda makes sense. My issue/concern is the dark grey fork oil that oozed out. The calliper side was OK, but the other side was dirty oil and grey. Something is wearing...I'm guessing a bushing?? Anybody else find this? The front wheel has been installed correctly and the clamps are torqued to spec. Thanks!
  7. No, exact same plugs. Both are what the manual suggests. They were brand new when they went in. I gapped and installed the left, rode a 20km loop of single track. Next, I moved the clip, installed another new (and gapped) plug and went for another 20km loop of single track and fire road. The second lap was probably a little faster than the first. IE first lap was top end of 3rd at most. And the 2nd lap was top end of fourth at most. There was no float adjustment made between these experiments. Temps were the same as well.
  8. I put today aside to play with my air screw/needle and see if I could tune the motor a bit better. Looking at the original plug, it was black and oily (no pic). I thought it was a bit too rich. Here are the details from today's experiment: '17 300RR **both were new plugs plug on the left (dark one) air screw 2.5 38 pilot needle N2ZW 2nd clip 165 main plug on the right air 2.5 38 pilot N2ZW 1st clip 165 main I ride at 4000-5000' in the Canadian Rockies. I also dropped my float slightly because I was leaking a bit of gas and had terrible mileage. Today the mileage improved and leaking stopped. Also the engine performed better with the right plug installed. 2 questions: Am I on the right track here or am I missing the boat? If I'm off track, what can I do to correct? Thanks
  9. I nailed a rock and bent my shifter on the last ride. After finishing the ride, I noticed an oil leak had started from around the seal. A couple of questions: 1) What are the chances I bent the main, internal shifter shaft? I tried to manually bend it back in the field, but stopped after having to pull too hard, but not hard enough to straighten (or even re-bend) the shifter. 2)Could I have distorted the oil seal without damaging the shaft? 3) I'm hoping replacing the seal will fix it. Any tips or How-To's on how to do this? 4) I'm guessing/hoping I can find the seal at a bearing shop. Is this reasonable? Thanks for any input.
  10. I have a stock carb (I do have the air box opened up to 3X3, but stock jets) on my DRZ. In a few weeks I'll be heading down the Continental Divide Trail. Some sections are obviously quite high (12000' in some cases). my questions are: -what (if any) extra jets should I carry? -for the high areas, what would some recommended settings be (interns of needle adjustments/jets etc) -would stock jetting be enough to get me through? I know jet changes are easy, but I don't really want to swap on the trail too much. For what its worth, I currently ride from 4000' to 6000' and don't seem to have any performance issues. Thanks!