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    Questions and a Hand IV

    Ok, lets be clear. You must have the shift forks/drum in place or the trans will not turn, as it engages two or more gears at once. Simple. You must also rotate the trans to get it to shift through all the gears, the gear dogs (the bits on the side of the gear that drive them) do not all line up at the same time. That's why the gears 'hop up'. Rotate the trans and they will drop back into place. So, when you are trying to shift it with the t-bar, you are rotating the trans aren't you? We need to be clear on this. Also, does the shift drum rotate at all, or is it locked solid (no movement)?
  2. For what you're doing, the year won't matter too much, as above just look at the maintenance and abuse side of it. Put the $$$ you save into getting the suspension set up for your weight, that makes a bigger difference than anything else. Don't write off racing just yet, it's a hell of a lot of fun, give it a go. ­čĆü

    restacker capabilities?

    Even if you don't get it perfect using it, It's a great learning tool. One day I'll get a copy (when the budget allows) but even mucking around with the demo version is great to see how different shaped stacks react, not always the way you think they will.

    Raptor 700 Rear Spring

    A quick google brought up these guys Hygear If you get the dimensions and rate you can often use good auto competition springs too (sometimes you need to spin up an adaptor or 2), I use a King spring on the rear of My Husqvarna for example, and have used others on roadbikes before too.

    Suspension springs compatibility

    Not always. And sometimes not as much as you would think. The YZ125 (2018) for example is 20lbs lighter than the YZ250 (2018) yet the springs are only a couple of points lighter. You could get away with running them. It's more the difference in the suspension/bike geometry between the fourstroke and 2 stroke in this case. Another example of the amount weight actually affects the spring rate is looking at springs for recommended rider weights, the same spring usually covers an around 20lbs weight range.

    Suspension springs compatibility

    You need to jump onto the racetech spring calculator, and enter both bikes and see what it says. Look at the spring dimensions too. There's much more to it than just the bike/rider weight. Ok; I got bored and spent 5 mins doing it for you. Looked at the 2018 YZ250X and your Original WR. First up the springs are different sizes both ends... front 43.6x472mm on the WR and 44.0x455mm on the YZ. And the rear 65.2x63.5x255 WR and 63.4x60.6x270 for the YZ. Could possibly make 'em fit with a bit of dicking around, spacers/adaptors on the rear, fronts? Maybe....You'd have to try it and see if it has preload spacers you can shorten to suit, or cut down the springs if the diameter isn't a problem, but remember this will up the rate a bit. Next, rate. Front. The WR; 0.49 kg/mm recommended for your weight and Stock .45 kg/mm. The YZ Is actually almost the same, except it lists the stock as .44. Recommended is still .49. Rear. WR Recommended 6.63 kg/mm and Stock Spring Rate: 5.5 kg/mm. YZ Recommended 6.24 kg/mm Stock Spring Rate: 4.9 kg/mm I did these for XCountry and 250lb, but it was more as a comparison between the 2. So what it means is the fork springs probably won't fit properly, though they'd be the correct rate, and the shock spring will fit with adaptors as long as the preload thread can make up the difference, but it's gonna be too stiff. Sorry, but in reality you're still gonna have to buy springs.
  7. What He said. Unless you do Huge jumps all the time I can't see it failing. Even then I doubt it'll be the rear bits that are a problem, swingarms usually fail near the linkage mount, that has the highest loading. As William mentioned, change out the bearings to fit the bigger axle (don't forget the internal spacer), but I'd just spin up some new spacers to suit the new arm without the steel bits.

    Advice on first bike

    I second the stay away from MX bikes thing. Get a KDX200 or XR200/250 and enjoy lots of cheap repair free riding. Or a CRF/TTR 230 if they're cheap enough there.
  9. I'm not in the US (NZ), but for comparison, a new 450 is 13-15k here, a 10 year old bike is $3500-$4000, and older than that are still in the $3k area. They seem to stay about the same after they get older than that magic 10 year old mark. Maybe it's because of what I always go on about, bikes haven't changed all that much for a long time. Lets be honest, the average guy would be bugger all better off performance wise on a new bike than a 10 year old one. A big bore smoker (CR500/KX500 etc) is $6-7k regardless of age. Check out what these sell for in Aussie if you want a good laugh.
  10. DEATH_INC.

    Titanium bolts vs oem factory bolts.....how much of a difference?

    Ti bolts work. As well as weighing a bit less, they remove money from your wallet, and you can't afford as many burgers/coke as before, so you lose weight too. As for feeling it, kinda hard to say, But I know when I changed to a lithium battery on My last roadie I could definitely feel it. Though that was 3-4kg high up on the 195kg (ish-wet) bike.
  11. DEATH_INC.

    Kidney belts

    I use an O'neal belt, as much for My back (compression injury) as anything. Basically I can't ride without it.
  12. DEATH_INC.

    What bike to buy?

    For woods look at an enduro bike. Yammy WR, KTM EXC/EXC-F, Honda CRF-X, Husky TE/FE, Beta, etc. Much more flexible than a MXer.
  13. DEATH_INC.

    YZ 250 2-stroke height

    Yep. 125 all the way, lotsa fun and you'll learn more than you will fighting a 250.
  14. DEATH_INC.

    Left hand exhaust

    How old? My '09 TXC450 does.
  15. DEATH_INC.

    Kx100 temp gauge!

    My one on the CR is 1.1 bar. I got it so I know when it's warm enough to ride, as it's an old bike with a steel liner. On the plus side it's already saved My ass when the leaking head gasket pushed all the water out, and the gauge didn't come up to temp when warming up.