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About HansLanda

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  1. I flipped the arm and set it between the alignment marks. It took less adjuster spreading to get rid of the slack. I didn't start the bike to warm up the clutch, but at the moment it feels the same. Impossible to roll the bike in gear. If I set the clutch arm back another tooth it could get more travel. Thanks @2 STROKE YZ DOC, I will try your method next. Haven't inspected the clutch basket or plates yet.
  2. I'll double check the basket, but when I inspected it a few months ago, I didn't notice any wear like that, and I have not really ridden it until now. If this is all normal, then fine, I can learn to live with it. But I would prefer to roll and kick the bike in gear, with the clutch disengaged. And yes, bump starting the 125 is incredibly easy! Just to be clear, @TommyCrown, your clutch arm is in the stock position, correct?
  3. Good catch@TommyCrown ! The PO must have put it together wrong, I don't know how it got that way. I'll flip it over tonight, it should be easy to align correctly. I just hope my circlip tool will work on this tiny clip.
  4. I know that it will drag more when cold. But we rode several hours, and all day long it was impossible to kick or roll in anything but neutral. And like I said, idle RPM was different in gear and neutral, so it must be dragging.
  5. Noticed a clutch problem on my first ride on the YZ125. I couldn't start the bike in gear, or roll it in gear with the clutch pulled in. Idling in gear also dropped the RPM, so it's obviously not fully disengaging. The adjusters at the clutch perch and on the cable were already really spread out. Looks like the clutch actuator arm needs to be aligned between the two alignment bumps on the side case, when the clutch starts to disengage. I owned an FZ6 in the past, and had issues getting the clutch arm aligned on just the right tooth. This pic below is as close as I can get (the pic angle isn't the best, but the arm is in front of the right alignment mark). There is a lot of cable slack, so I must spread the adjusters way apart, and the clutch still drags. I can either install the clutch arm way behind the left mark, or just in front of the right mark. To make things harder, I am doing this with the bike on its side to not drain any oil, so the push rod in the basket (3SB-16356-10-00) is not fully extended out of the basket when I start installing the clutch cover. Any tips? I inspected the clutch plates when I got the bike. They look fine, but I didn't have a caliper to measure thickness.
  6. My fav pic of me on the dizza
  7. Hasn't Honda said in the past they are not at all interested in 2 strokes anymore?
  8. I really want a YZ250X now!
  9. The 125 is dope in the single track! I brought my DRZ too but didn't even ride it.
  10. Do not use DOT5 in a DOT4 system. They are incompatible. You can use DOT5.1 however. It has a higher boil temp, which means less fade.
  11. If they had 4 wheels I would be more interested. But then it'd be a car, and need all the extra safety stuff.
  12. My YZ125 is about ready for some MX. I'm seeing a new ortho on Monday due to new health insurance. Hoping to get a prescription for some nice knee braces that my insurance will pay for. I think the Asterisk medical ones look good. They have straps for limiting rotation below the knee. And they're carbon fiber. Definitely have neglected doing my on therapy since I changed jobs and couldn't see my physical therapist anymore. The bending and strength is not where it should be.
  13. I would recommend the Sidi Crossfire 2 SR for sure. The sole is completely replaceable, and they sell a supermoto slider sole. I use the Crossfire 3, pretty much the same hinge design. No issues shifting for me. You might want to put your shift lever a tooth higher though, MX boots usually have thicker toeboxes than street boots.
  14. Excuse the ignorance, what is the advantage?