rehammer81

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About rehammer81

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  1. This is what ultimately drove me to removing the OI from my 17' 300RR. Just not worth the stress. I ride for fun. I was obsessing over that crap system. As far as I could tell it was working fine but I was still paranoid every ride. Mixing is easy and pretty much worry free.
  2. Nice! That little spike stock stand Beta uses sucks here in the sandy desert and I haven't gotten around to putting a wider base on it.
  3. On what bike? I installed it on my 17' 300RR with oil injection removed. Runs pretty damn good now. Might be slightly lean on the colder days here now. Not for sure yet.
  4. This may just be wording interpretation but but with the carb upside down at an angle where the float tang just barely rests on the needle but does not compress the little spring in it, you would want to bend the tang down in relation to make it close the needle valve sooner. Of course this would be bending the tang up with the carb/float in the upright orientation. Just want to make sure we are all referencing the same adjustment direction. Also, from what I have seen most people around here seem to agree best float measurement is about 8mm at the highest point about the carb mating surface. Float seam level mating surface is about 6mm.
  5. What is all the other frame and case protection on the bike? That stuff looks like it fits and protects a lot better than stock stuff.
  6. Can RR Sachs OC forks be converted to CC forks or do you have to buy whole new CC forks? I have a 17' 300 RR. Curious what my performance upgrade options are as I progress and get more aggressive where fork performance will begin to matter more.
  7. Awesome! I just asked about the W=I on another thread. It was confusing me until I looked over the complete jetting chart and realized that might be the case. Can you explain 1/2 clip a little clearer? For example, if I go from N2ZW clip #2 to N2ZJ clip #2 and then back to N2ZW but clip #3 or #4. I don't really understand how much difference there is between clip settings and the next needle diameter, taper being held constant.
  8. So when cruising asphalt too/from the trail and my house through the neighborhood, 25-30mph, 4th/5th gear to try and be quiet, there is this strange kind of on/off power hesitation or surge/fade in the power delivery to the drivetrain. Don't know if that makes sense. Hard to describe. I'm holding a steady throttle. The revs are not spiking/dropping and the bike doesn't seem to be lugging or bogging and trying to die. It's almost like the clutch is engaging/disengaging but without spiking/lugging the revs. Kind of a bucking feeling. Goes away under acceleration or if I pull the clutch. It also doesn't seem to do this cruising a dirt road. Clutch seems to be fully engaging and disengaging with the lever. I don't notice any rev spiking like the clutch is slipping when I grab a handful of throttle. Maybe because the rear wheel doesn't have the same velcro traction on dirt as it does on the asphalt? I have also played with carb jetting a little and that had no effect on this issue. I went from the stock 38 pilot jet to the 35. I also went from the stock N2ZW needle on the 2nd clip to the N2ZJ needle on the 2nd clip. Left the stock 165 main jet. I'm at 2,500-3,000ft and 60-75deg. Is the N2ZW needle a richer or leaner diameter compared to the N2ZJ needle? The jetting chart leads me to believe the W is richer than the J but normal needle numbering would make the W a much leaner diameter than J. I notice on the chart as they go leaner from the W needle they typically also drop the main jet size so wondered if they were maybe offsetting some of that lean step down in the jet with a skinnier/richer J needle? In that case the W needle would be leaner. Looking at the other needles used though makes me think they may line up like this from rich to lean: N2ZH, N2ZW, N2ZJ, N2ZK. Maybe they didn't want to use the sequence N2ZI between H and J so they replaced it with W that is way out of the sequence?
  9. I'll take a closer look at the thermostat. Thanks.
  10. But was your leak accompanied by the pressure build up in the cooling system even after the bike cools down? Even a day later if I opened the radiator cap there would be a significant pressure release. That seems to have stopped along with the leak these past couple rides for me.
  11. So I ordered the KTM o-rings but while I'm waiting I've still done a couple rides. The last two rides there has been no leaking or real lasting pressure build up in the coolant system like before. Is it possible the o-rings just needed some heat cycles to seat and seal? Bike has 15 hours on it now.
  12. What is the difference between "start jet" and "slow jet" and how does it equate to the "pilot jet"? I only see people talk about needle, needle clip, main jet, pilot jet, and air screw turns.
  13. Just recently purchased a leftover 17' 300RR. OI just made me uneasy and I don't find mixing fuel that big a deal. I like the idea of OI but this system just sounded like it had too many potential failure points with not enough failsafe checks implemented. I rode several hours with it but found myself constantly worried about it and neurotically checking on it. It was working but still just not worth the obsessing when I'm trying to enjoy riding. I deleted it and I am more relaxed not having to think about it while riding. Oil is in the tank. Good to go!
  14. Looking in the manual they have some strange stock carb settings that don't make sense to me compared to what others have posted and the 2013-2015 Carb Jetting Table I've seen. 130 main jet 35 slow jet 50 start jet N84K needle 2* needle position 2 turns out air screw Is this for a different carb they come stock with in Europe or something. This is what my manual has for the 300RR.
  15. It's better for engine ware and longevity to be a tad rich then lean correct?