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About bronc

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  1. bronc

    Beta 200cc Suspension Help

    My 200 seems really harsh to me also and I weigh 205 lbs. I read all of the reviews available and they pretty much all said the suspension was soft. I don't have that many hours on the bike and haven't played with the clickers much. I set the sag and increased the preload on the forks for my weight. I backed off the compression a few clicks at the end of my last ride but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I am coming off a KTM 500EXC and a 250XCF-w with heavier than stock springs. I also rode a buddy's '17 250XCW recently. All of these were super plush compared to the 200. Feels more like a mx bike suspension than other enduro bikes I have ridden. I don't mind it but with the way mine feels, I would be surprised if anyone said it was soft, especially a 165lb reviewer. I'll check to see if the forks are binding.
  2. bronc

    DBC all in in 2020 Beta

    Being a new Beta owner and new to this part of the forum, I don't quite get all of the DBC hating. His content isn't for everyone, especially veteran riders/racers, but I have definitely learned a few things from his videos over the years as I have gotten back into dirtbike riding. I don't mind that he isn't the best rider, neither am I so I don't mind his perspective. I have emailed Kyle with questions about tire changing stands, drones and some other stuff and have always gotten a quick reply from him. Seems like a nice enough guy to me. I get that he didn't love the 300rr because of the forks and lack of counterbalancer but now that Beta's got a couterbalanced motor coming out and everybody(almost) is excited about it, shows that his opinion had at least some validity. I rode my buddy's '17 250xc-w last week and counterbalanced motors ARE indeed sweet! I also think it says a lot about Beta as a company that they gave him another bike to test even though he wasn't entirely positive about their 300. Love my new 200. I wish I would have initially taken Kyle's advice to go 2stroke when I first got back into dirtbikes a few years ago. Beta is coming out with some great bikes and he seems to be on board with that. I say cut him some slack! I have KTMs also and like them, but Beta stands to steal some customers like me who are tired of having to dump money into brand new bikes to make them right.
  3. bronc

    2020 Beta Motorcycles Wish List

    New non-icepick kickstand looks sweet!
  4. bronc

    Transmission oil Beta 200 RR

    I need to do my first oil change on my 200RR and was debating what to use. Dealer set me up with a bottle of the recommended Motul but I'm wondering if Rotella or something else would work better. My clutch still drags some with the lever pulled to the grip and the adjuster all the way in. Really can't find neutral ever while stopped. I was hoping this would improve as the cluch plates wore in a little but it seems about the same as when brand new. Not horrible but seems like it should disengage fully when warm.
  5. bronc

    Freeattle-entitlement = stolen gear

    This tweaker broke into by garage earlier this year and stole all of my riding gear among other things. Really expensive to replace but probably had little to no street value. His downfall this time was looking right into my Arlo cameras as he stole them also. They caught the guy, but looking at his rap sheet in attached article, I'm guessing it's just another round of catch and release for this fine gentleman. .https://q13fox.com/2019/05/03/trevor-bresnahan-search-on-for-convicted-felon-hiding-in-the-orting-area/
  6. Thanks for the info. That makes sense and should give great access. I wouldn't have necessarily gone there next. Thanks Again!
  7. Hi All, I'm new to Betas with my 200rr. I'm coming off a KTM 500EXC so I'm loving how fun and nimble this bike is. First riding session was at 2700' and 50 degrees. Not even 20 miles before hitting reserve. Even though it seemed like the jetting was pretty good, I ordered a jd jet kit to put in when I had the carb out to adjust the float as recommended by everyone. I heard these help improve mileage even though it looks like they are going from a 160 to 175 main. As I went to take the carb out, it looks like the dealer zip tied a loop in the float bowl drain tube to keep it from draining. Not sure if this is OK to do but it seems like it would have kept the carb from losing any fuel even if the float is set too high. This kinda dashed my hope that the float was to blame for the mileage. I figured I would reset the float and ditch the loop in the tubing. Now on to the noob question..... Is there an easier way to remove the carb completely or get to the jets in the future than what I am seeing. I'm used to KTMs where you can just rotate the carb to get to the needle on one side and the bowl on the other. On this bike, I can't seem to rotate the carb very far without the throttle cable hitting the engine mounts. With the gas tank off, the top of the carb doesn't seem to fit between the engine mounts so I can't even get it out of the way to help spin the carb. The oil injection and tps unit also limit movement. I'm sure I can disassemble the bike and get the carb out but is there an easier way that I'm just not seeing or am I just not reefing on it hard enough? Seems like a serious pain especially for just jetting changes. Thanks for any advice, Brian
  8. bronc

    '17 Husky 501 Airboot Reed Removal Report

    Pull the reeds and dont look back. Might not make it like the '16 as I haven't ridden one but with mine it just seemed to make it run "right." Definitely smoother and no more lurchy than before.
  9. bronc

    New to me 200txt with brakes that suck.

    Update to my brake saga: Both front and rear calipers were unsavable. Apparently these old hebo units have really close tolerances between the piston and caliper and are really prone to seizing up with any hint of corrosion. I took them all apart and still couldn't get them to work right. You also can't get new seals so I got a new braketec front and older ajp rear caliper that trials parts usa sells to retrofit to these bikes. BTW Jim Snell from Trials Parts Usa was super helpful on the phone and has some good you tube videos especially for working on these older bikes. Anyway, brakes are now awesome and I'm sure better than they were when the bike was new. Now I just need to get better at riding this thing.
  10. bronc

    New to me 200txt with brakes that suck.

    I'm in the Seattle area. I also tried to reverse bleed the rears but the fluid won't move so it seems like the M/C probably needs a rebuild also since the plunger isn't retracting fully. Seems impossible to get new seals for the hebo calipers so I'm thinking I will move the front caliper to the rear, get new pads and get a new braketech caliper for the front. That's the plan today anyway.
  11. bronc

    New to me 200txt with brakes that suck.

    You might be right on the fork seals. The pads just seem to lay down a greasy film on the discs so they may have gotten contaminated. I re-bled the front brakes by reverse bleeding and they got better but still not great. I think new pads are at least in order for the front. The rears seem to be more buggered up. The pistons don't retract well and the pads drag. I'm having a tough time getting the pistons out and I'm not sure a rebuild kit is available for these calipers. I think I have seen a conversion mentioned somewhere.
  12. bronc

    New to me 200txt with brakes that suck.

    Yep, I figured the brakes should be stronger. I think I will pull the pistons out of the calipers and make sure they aren't frozen. Maybe all 4 pistons aren't moving. I'll also try the brake heating routine. That's a good idea. I'm pretty sure the levers are ok and not bottoming. If anything they are too far out since the reach adjuster screw is broken. Thx for the help. Ill keep trying and keep you posted if I solve it.
  13. I just picked up my first trials bike, a 2000 200txt for my kids and I to mess around on. I've always wanted to try a trials bike and couldn't resist the deal. The bike is complete and runs well but the brakes suck. They remind me of the drum brakes on my sons ttr125. I've never ridden a trials bike to compare but watching trials videos leads me me to believe the brakes should be way better. I played with the front brake and got very little improvement by changing the fluid, bleeding, cleaning the pads with brake cleaner and running them over sandpaper. They seem to have a good amount of pad material left. Disk seems very shiny. The lever seems fairly firm but just not very powerful. No way front wheelies are going to happen here. Levers are the stock AJP levers and the calipers are the stock 4 piston hebo units. Fluid was pretty milky and obviously hadn't been changed in a while. Any suggestions on what I should try next. I was going to order new pads but am skeptical that would make much difference.
  14. I bought and installed the sicass momentary kill start switch for a 2016 model and installed it on my 2017 exc. Same thing happened to me. There is a 2017 switch that is different that works properly but is backordered. I'm not sure how the 2017 switch works but it is somehow wired differently. The kill switch is a two wire switch that grounds to kill so I'm not sure how that could be different. The start switch has 4 wires I think so maybe something is different there that causes the problem. I emailed sicass to see if there was a way to jumper wires to make the older model switch work but they said just to wait for the proper switch. I'm sure it is an easy fix but don't have a wiring diagram to figure it out. There must be a connection in the starter button wiring that keeps the kill switch from grounding out the ignition. Wish I could figure it out so I don't have to buy a new switch.
  15. I purchased a sicasss kill/start combo switch for my 2017 500exc to save some room and also I don't like the kill switch being non-momentary. Seems like I always have to crank the motor for a while before I realize the kill switch is off. Anyway, I ordered the one for the 2016 exc's before I realized they make one specifically for the 2017. I installed it anyway and basically it starts great but doesn't consistently kill the motor. I talked to sicass about whether I could change connections or jumper something to make it work since the 2017 is indefinitely backordered and I'd rather not have to return the one I have. They said the correct switch is the exact same switch but with different wiring connections and left it at that. Wondering if anyone has any wiring ideas for this. I went through this with the led turn signals and had to order a specific sicass part to make them work on the 2017 which turned out to be just a few wires to use as jumpers. Wondering if this might be the same deal. BTW, I like the looks and function of the switch and it definitely frees up some bar space.