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Amd241997

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About Amd241997

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    Utah

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  1. I’m honestly pretty confused on what the selling point is other than attracting people to the post.. Other than that, it looks like the main goal is to provide products that the big guys (RMATVMC, MotoSport, Bike Bandit, etc.) don’t carry? I know for a huge fact I’d like to see more products available for the older bikes. I’ve got a 2000 KX250 that I’m trying to build into a KTM killer and it’s a hassle not being able to find good parts. For instance, I’d love to get my hands on a Cycra style skid plate (the only option is a basic metal “full armor” metal one), or re-style plastic kits (like offered for the older YZ’s by Cycra), or even engine case guards (currently not offered at all; would be great to know my investment is better protected). Is this the end goal? Because it would be a good business opportunity. Don’t cater to just Honda either. Not everyone owns a Honda.
  2. I was in a similar fix with my kx, but I ended up just using a punch, mallet, PB Blaster, and a little heat. Got the races out with about 6 taps each. Getting the new ones in was actually harder.. and yes I stuck the new races in the freezer for about 2 days and used heat.
  3. My local shop wants $90 per wheel to lace and true so this is definitely a job I need to learn. It seems I’ve got my spokes correct, just wondering how to offset now. Thanks.
  4. Got some tusk impact rims for my 2000 KX250 and now I’m just wondering about how to lace and true. Front is a 21”, rear is an 18”. Managed to snag the tusk rear impact rim and spoke set, but had to buy the front spokes from a different company (Outlaw Racing) since RMATVMC didn’t carry a front rim and spoke set for my model. My questions are: Are the front spokes all the same length and bend? Are the rear spokes all the same length and bend? Is the offset the same for an 18” rim vs. a 19” rim? Does anyone have the measurements available? Didn’t measure offset (wasn’t even aware of it) or spoke length before I cut up the old ones so I’m having a slight dilemma. I figure for truing I’ll just mount up the wheels to a bike with a zip tie pointer and since the tires aren’t mounted I’ll just use an Allen key to tighten the spokes to true. Any help would be great. Thanks! Edit: Just looked at the ends of my rear tusk spokes and 9 of them have the letter “N” and the other 27 have the letter “M”. Anybody know if this means something? Edit #2: Measured them and the ones marked with “N” are a little longer. So do I lace up all the letter “M” ones on the brake side and alternate “N” and “M” on the sprocket side? Sprocket side. All the ones with letter “M” are in the holes closer to the inner wheel and all the ones with letter “N” are in the holes closer to the outer wheel. 9 longer spokes and 9 shorter spokes. All the ones on the brake side have letter “M” spokes. So this whole side has the shorter spokes only.
  5. Just sent mine to Millennium Technologies after hearing all of the good work they do. I was mainly sold on the fact that they offered an overbore service with porting and polishing as well as the piston and gaskets for just under $500. A lot of people seem to like them.
  6. I’m getting my engine bored out to 295cc. 1.8cc more than a KTM 300[emoji39]
  7. Test-fitted some stuff since I was bored. Still waiting on my engine, but hopefully going to get all the bearings installed today so I can mount up the wheels and swingarm. This things gonna be an enduro beast, so watch out!
  8. Hate to dig up an old thread, but I just did the same 2016 number plate and fender combo on my ‘00 KX250 and I’m wondering what’s the best way to mount the top of the number plate to the triple clamp. I used Cycra’s stadium plate so I was able to zip tie the lower parts of the plate to my forks at least. Here’s a couple pics:
  9. She’s coming together slowly. Still waiting on my bored out 295cc cylinder and my crankshaft to be sent back to me. Will be getting all the other bearings pressed into the linkage and wheels hopefully this upcoming week.
  10. Got the single bearing out of the rear hub with a blind bearing puller from harbor freight (nice $70 chunk out of my pocket), but now I have the two bearings still seized to hell and on top of that I now have an issue removing my lower steering stem inner race and linkage bearings. Used the tool on the linkage and wheel to no effect. Tried pb blaster and heat to no effect. Really don’t want to pay a shop seeing how I wasted money on the tool so any help from someone that had a similar issue would be great. Thanks!
  11. I appreciate that a lot especially with this build becoming a tad more pricey than I thought haha. I’m actually going to try out 5 miles of hell sometime when it starts to cool down so that transmission would in fact come in handy. I’ll PM you now.
  12. Ya I’m stationed on Hill Air Force Base up in the Clearfield area. What are you wanting for it? And is it a direct swap? Would I be fine to keep the current bearings (how do you check if they’re in spec) or should I swap for new bearings too?
  13. That’s what confuses me is how on my hub the spindle is only loose on one side. I can’t get anything on the inner race of the single bearing due to that
  14. Removed the clip and my problem seems to be that the inner axle tube thing only has movement on the double bearing side. I can’t seem to knock it loose on the single bearding side otherwise I could easily remove the one bearing and get easier access to the double bearings. I can easily set a screwdriver on the inner race of the two bearings but I can hammer at it all day and they won’t budge anymore that what they did. I probably only have about 10mm left to go but they’re not moving anymore.
  15. Attempted to remove the bearings on my 2000 KX250 wheels and managed to get both front bearing out, but the rears seem to be seized in the hub. I have tried heat with a screwdriver to drive them out, tried banging one side with a socket to force them out (I think that made them seize even more as I was unaware that the rear wheel has three bearings and I was banging on the side with one bearing) and even a dremel to no avail. Heard about PB blaster, but if that doesn’t work does anyone else have tips? Really rather not spend the money on a puller and don’t know how much a shop would charge to press them out. Called around and they wouldn’t give me an estimate which seems shady. I’m already deep into the build and am trying to save cash where I can. Any help would be great. Thanks!