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About freebird65

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  1. freebird65

    13 rmz250 sff fork rebuild

    I was able to do it without any special tools.
  2. freebird65

    Leaking rad fluid

    Remove cap and start bike. Do you see a lot of tiny air bubbles flowing in the radiator? If so then consider you may have a bad head gasket.
  3. freebird65

    Is this cylinder big bore or standard size?

    If you don't have a bore gauge to measure I suggest taking it to a machine shop and asking them to measure for you.
  4. freebird65

    07 yz250F cant keep up! Upgrades?

    I'd also verify that you do not have a power delivery issue - check clutch and springs.
  5. freebird65

    Starting sequence tips

    I think every YZ is different. I usually kick my '04 over a few times slowly and then bring to TDC and within 1-3 kicks it will start. Another friend has to "prime" his with full throttle once to get it to fire.
  6. freebird65

    05 RMZ 250 with new exhaust

    I doubt a newer exhaust will fit your bike. If you go to the fitment guides for aftermarket exhaust systems they group the 04-09 together and then 2010+ so that makes me think they are different applications totally.
  7. freebird65

    Valve clearances

    Always ask to see the receipts for all the "new parts" that were supposedly just installed. Are you sure you are getting the cam caps on completely and torquing in proper order and to spec? Otherwise, I can't explain your issue, but I have seen similar issues - thinking I only need to adjust one shim size, install, then find out that I need adjust one more size. On the timing marks, this bike is known to spin cam gears. A new chain is in the $35 range so I would suggest just replacing if you think it may be stretched. There should be a measurement in the service manual - for example, if the measurement between 13 pins is greater than a specified limit then the chain should be replaced.
  8. You are good on the intakes. For the exhaust try .17 - if there is a drag but it still fits then you are good. Then try .16 to confirm that the valve is no tighter than .17, which is on the tight end of the spec. If one or both is at .16 or tighter then it is time to re-shim. Might also be a good time to consider replacing the cam chain too. I suggest just buying a Hot Cams shim kit (around $70) so you have what you need. A digital micrometer ($20-30) has been of use to me. Hopefully you'll be able to determine the existing size of the shim in place if it is still marked. Or use the digital micrometer to confirm size. Then you can use the shim chart in the service manual and go purchase individual shims at the local shop. You'll probably pay around $5 a shim. Once you replace the shims, re-install the caps and torqued to spec (and in order) turn the engine over several times, bring to TDC, and then confirm that clearance has changed and within spec. Once you re-shim you'll need to increase the maintenance check on the valves. I suggest every 10-15 hours. There are also tons of youtube videos on this process.
  9. freebird65

    2014 Suzuki RMZ 250 oil change

    Simple question - did not know if Suzuki changed and added a oil level window from the 2013 model that I have. The factory capacity specified in manuals may or may not be correct. At least 2 of the 5 bikes that I own require more oil than the manual lists to bring it to proper level.
  10. freebird65

    2014 Suzuki RMZ 250 oil change

    2014 has a site glass?
  11. freebird65

    RMZ 250 SFF spring rates

    My son is about your weight and we went with a .92 spring. He seems to be happy with it. I would give them a call and discuss your specific riding requirements instead of using the online tool.
  12. freebird65

    08... third set of fork seals in 6 months. Thoughts?

    What seal are you using - OEM or other? I had a similar issue on my son's '13. Was suggested to me by a mechanic that I only use OEM, NOK or SKF. Ordered a set of OEM and have not had a problem since.
  13. freebird65

    Devol Radiator Guards

    Installed some Devol on a '13 RMZ250 and was not impressed. They may have been off due to non-oem radiators but there was some modification required.
  14. For pulling: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTL5O2P/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Measure the openings to ensure this model has what you need. This is what I own but just an example of what a blind bearing puller is. For installing the bearing this is what I have used in the past. I've also used large socket. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWH9J76/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MatthewMCRepair (poster here as well as youtube channel) has good videos on this process.
  15. Well, had you asked about removing it I would have told you not unless it was in very bad shape. It does not really have a load on it. As you are finding they are hard to remove and even harder to press in without destroying. I would advise get the part, maybe 2, and take to a shop to see if they will charge something reasonable to install. A blind bearing puller will have several different sizes. That is the proper tool to remove both bearings. For installing the main trans bearing I would use a socket that is the same size at the outside race or bearing driving kits are cheap - I think the one I use was $15. Freeze it a few days and then heat the case - I use propane or MAPP gas. I have not installed the shift cam bearing because I was told how hard it will be to install. Hopefully one of the other posters will have a better idea for you.