Jump to content

bailout

Members
  • Content Count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bailout

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Virginia

Recent Profile Visitors

103 profile views
  1. bailout

    need advice on trail riding set up

    I race a 13 crf450r in Virginia hare scrambles and yes it's a lot of bike but with the right setup it's awsome. 150 is really light on that bike though. I'm 230 and it's still a lot of bike in the woods. I did lowered foot pegs, car high bend fat bars, a rekluse, woods remap and it was a whole new bike. Ran amazing but still beat me up some so just had the suspension done and wow what a change. In hindsight I would have done the suspension first if I had known how much it changed the bike, everything else's made it more comfortable (maybe not the rekluse, that thing is game changer) but suspension made it handle and turn like never before. Shoot me a pm if your interested in parting out that tank I'm looking for one now
  2. Of all the tires ive run over the years I like the mx52 for east coast woods. Great in roots and rocks and not bad at all in the slick stuff. Very reliable tire and it definitely hooks up well
  3. bailout

    What's your worst ride ever?!

    My first hare scramble ever. Had to have a local guy rebuild my rear shock with a blown seal the day before the race. He didn't bleed it right and it blew the bladder and high speed compression valve out 20 mins in. Rode 2 hours of mountain side single track with some crazy suspension. Hand guards took a royal beat down but still finished top ten. Couldn't lift my arms for a few days after. Never again will a non professional touch my suspension
  4. So the guy rebuilding my rear shock off a 2013 crf450r with the kayaba 50mm shock dropped the shaft with the nut off and the rebound stack went flying. Anyone have the oem stack order or a good stack to use for gncc/ hare scramble b rider with oem shims? I can't seem to find anything
  5. Looking for some advice for a buddy with a worn out 2010 crf450r clutch. I have a 2013 and replaced my entire clutch with a rekluse core exp. my question is I know the baskets are the same for most years of 450Rs, is there any reason the the hub from my 13 wouldn't fit his 2010? I assume it would but I don't want to get in there and find out it's not compatible. I assume if the hub fits, then he can use my 6 spring pressure plate and 13 steels and fibers for a decent upgrade over his weak 4 spring setup. I know someone on here has the knowledge so figured I'd ask. Thanks
  6. bailout

    2015 crf450r clutch probs

    If the cable is backed all the way, you are adding tension not adding free play, which would explain the slip. Adjust the cable all the way in on the perch and in the middle of the cable then back it out at the perch to set your free play. If there is constant tension on that clutch cable you won't get a good clamp from the pressure plate. The pulling in first was probably from a notched basket, but I can only assume that's why you replaced it. Two un related things going on. Don't use the cable tension to try and fix that, and roast the plates slipping it constantly
  7. bailout

    Best Tranny and Engine Oil you guys use?

    Agreed I run my motor fairly low rpm but not super gentle. I change oil every third ride so about 8-10 hours tops on both sides with motul in the moto and belray in the tranny. Probably overkill but it's much cheaper than a full rebuild. I run a stainless oil filter and clean it every change. Takes 2 minutes and it costs nothing after initial buy. If you run rotella it seems most guys changes engine side every ride or every other tops if they are easy rides.
  8. bailout

    Best Tranny and Engine Oil you guys use?

    You get what you pay for with oil. I have a rekluse in my bike and they recommend rotella if you change it often or the bel ray mentioned above. Either way changing often is the key, but the higher quality oils will let you get away with a little more time between changes before breaking down. I like the peace of mind with a good oil personally but many have had great success with rotella. But why run a motor oil in a gearbox when you don't have to? I'd say pick an oil approved for a wet clutch made for gear box duties. It will stand up better to the abuse. Run the snyth rotella in the motor if you choose, but Honda trans oil is like 6 bucks a bottle if nothing else
  9. bailout

    Best Tranny and Engine Oil you guys use?

    I run motul 300v full ester 10w-40 in the engine side. One of the best oils you can buy but it's not cheap. I run the bel ray thumper gear saver 80w-85 in the trans. I also run engine ice and Sunoco 100 octane fuel and so far I'm still on factory valves with no adjustment and factory top end at 80 hard hours on my 13
  10. bailout

    2013 450R stripped transmission check bolt

    Exactly. I won't ever take it back out again. The book called for 680mls but it took about 720-730 to hit the check bolt. From now on I'll just use 720 and call it good. As for the exhaust, people hate on the duals on these boards all the time but there's something about the duals that just looks so sweet if nothing else! Thanks for the help it was 11 and 14 so just ordered those. Hopefully that fixes the issue and it seals up
  11. bailout

    2013 450R stripped transmission check bolt

    Just looked that appears to be the drain bolt underneath the motor. I need the small oil level check bolt on the right side of the case. I can find that one you listed just not the one I need lol
  12. As title says have a 2013 crf450r I just bought from a guy at the local track. Bike is well cared for but I was doing fresh fluids in everything and when I went to torque the transmission oil check bolt back down (9ft lbs) it never even snugged enough for the torque wrench to come close to stripping it. I am trying to figure out either the part number for that bolt and washer (can't find the number or bolt specs anywhere in the manual just torque specs.) I plan to try and just replace the bolt and washer first and see if that corrects it. I may try a heli-coil but I have no experience with them. I'm certainly not splitting the cases over it and worst case I'll jb weld it as it's really not necessary. I always measure my fluids anyway but figured I'd see how close the called for amount was compared to the check bolt. Thanks for the help I know someone on here can help me out! Picure is post overhaul Next picture is the bolt I'm talking about. It's less than inch long 8mm head with a crush washer
  13. bailout

    Troubleshooting 09 yz450f

    Okay thank you, I'll go ahead and get another 162 main and a 45 pilot. Then I'll have a 162 main 165 main, and 45,48,50 pilot to play with. Any reason why the bike would have run perfect with a 48 main 3 and 3/4 turns out on pilot screw?wouldnt that in turn make the pilot circuit lean at 2 turns out on the screw? Just trying to learn
  14. bailout

    Troubleshooting 09 yz450f

    So fired the bike up today, fired up in about 5 kicks which surprised me after having the carb totally drained. I'll give a little more background to help out. Bought the bike a few weeks ago and it was super lean to begin with. Dropped it for a Dyno tune since I wasn't too confident in my jetting skills yet. I'd have to look again at needle clip position but they had the bike running amazing on a 162 main 48 pilot. I'm at sea level in eastern Virginia. Well after swamping the bike good and the issues I listed above, figured it was time to dig into the carb and see what was going on. It was really dirty so cleaned everything up really well. Problem is I snapped the main tightening it down. Swung by my local shop and he didn't have a 162 on hand so he gave me a 165. I may just order a jet kit and go back to a 162. Will the 165 be noticeable? Also I mentioned that my air screw was 3 and 3/4 out and told him I wanted to change the pilot to get it closer to 1.5-2 turns. Guy said I needed to go up not down on pilot then. So I have both the 50 and 48 here, and I can swap the 48 back in if need be. Still trying to get the hang of what exactly I'm looking for to dial in the carb and learning the corresponding corrections for each condition. Right now bike seems to be running good at idle and no pop on rev and decel at 2.25 turns but I can't ride it where I live until I take it back out for a real ride. What am I really looking for dialing it in? If it is running really rich now what be the obvious signs other than fowling plugs? Did I in fact g th wrong way on the pilot? I will order a 45 or jet kit if it is and not go back to that shop if that's the case. Thanks for the help @grayracer513
×