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      2019 Zooks!   07/17/2018

      Suzuki Introduces 2019 Motocross, Dual Sport, Off-Road and Youth Models

Funbags

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  1. Thanks! I'm aiming for around $40 to $60USD, but the last contract manufacturer I talked to quoted me an astronomical ammount to assemble the tachs, so I'm trying to see how to bring the costs down. Thanks for the interest!
  2. Yes. The Tach is completely stand-alone. You don't need anything from the stock speedo for it to work. It installs with just 3 wires. 12V Power, Ground, Signal wire. The signal wire just gets crammed into the spade connector on the low voltage side of the coil pack. As long as you have a place to sticky tape mount 2 things about the size of a stick of gum, you're good to go. Thanks!
  3. Hey All, If you want to sign up for a email notification for when I go into production, please use the following link. I'm getting close to a final design. www.smresearchtech.com Thanks!
  4. Thanks for the heads up! I don't want to step on anyone's toes.
  5. I made changes to the color map to bring the peak HP up a smidge to 8500, but I didnt touch TQ yet. I'll test it this weekend on my buddies BBK DRZ and see how he likes it. It definitely feels higher on my bike (like the middle red led is almost past peak, but not bad), but only because I was used to the other map. It hasn't seemed to affect my shifting though. Thanks for the input.
  6. Hey All, I'm wondering if anyone has a little info on the FE line's ignition system. HUSKY haven't gotten back to me in a few days so I was wondering maybe someone here knows a little bit. 1. What is the voltage of the low voltage side of the coil? I was under the assumption that it's supposed to be around 100V to 200V, but I tested a spark sensor on a friends bike and it blew out a resistor rated to 200V @2A. We didnt have a multimeter there at the time, and his bike is an hour away from me so testing it is hard. (By low voltage side I mean the signal wire/spade connector (I think the color was white with a green stripe)) 2. Is it wasted spark? Or does the ECU control the spark much more precisely than a CDI/stator driven system? (Like it sparks every other crank rotation on compression, or something?) If I can think of anything else I'll ask here. Thanks for any help my dudes!
  7. Hey Ohio, What are the RPM numbers for your curves? I cant really read the numbers under the graph. Thanks!
  8. I just reread your comment and I'm going to get as many DRZ dyno curves as possible and try to get an average... looking at just a handful so far, I'll push up the number closer to what you suggested. it looks like my bike is a little restricted up top. lol
  9. Yea I hear what you mean. I think a future one will definitely have some way of changing the values. I have 2 pins free on the chip that technically dont do anything so I could in theory add 2 buttons.. or a dial or somethign. They should be ready by the summer. I have one more set of tests to run before final production, but that should be easy. Cheers
  10. Thanks Clogan, right now there are no numbers because I'm at the limits of what the little chip can do. Adding several 7-segment displays would probably push me past the CPU overhead it has right now. The benefit of the chip I'm using is that it's incredibly cheap which helps me hit the price point I'm going for. There's no reason not to design one like you're suggesting though, and as a future version is very doable. It mounts with sticky tape and is in 2 parts, LED bar, and control unit. I'm trying a few design options though. Thnx! I was actually going for a Kitt effect. lol. Peak TQ is 6.5k RPM, and Peak HP is 8k RPM, Basically just the curves from when I took my bike to a dyno. Unfortunately right now it isnt adjustable, but for a simple reason... it makes the tach way more cheap to mnfg. There are plans to make a simple interface though for user settings, but not into this version. I'm just trying to make a stable and long-life product as soon as possible, then develop it from there. I've now installed it in 5 bikes ranging from a stock DRZ, to a full BBK/stroker/MRD/FCR bike and so far no one even uses the color map as information anyway (except me lol). They just look at the tach and rev bomb at every light while laughing like children over the Sens's. haha Cheers,
  11. Mike: Yes I forgot to mention it in the video, but it auto detects the ambient light and adjusts the LED brightness. Nighttime brightness is actually dimmer than the Stock instrument cluster lights. Thanks fellas!
  12. Hey Dudes, I'm slowly wrapping up the first stages of design on my tachometer. It's specifically for the DRZ. The color maps are based on my bike's dyno curves, and hopefully match somewhat to DRZ's in general. Let me know what you think or if you'd find it useful. It should be in production by the summer. No final price yet, but it should be between $40 and $60 (depending on if I put in a 2A USB charger). Installation is only 3 wires; Power, GND, and a spark signal wire. It's a direct spark signal with a over voltage zener shunt, so it's super accurate. Not a capacitance or inductance sensor. Its built on an AtTiny85 and WS2812 LED drivers (very similar to Adafruit Neopixels). Let me know what you think. Thanks! Features: -Ambient light detection (auto-adjusts brightness for day/night mode, and night mode is dimmer than stock instrument cluster lights) -Idle Set mode (lets you set idle speed to 1800 RPM) -RPM range 1000 to 10,000/10,500 -Full color RGB LEDs -blinky lights for super American fun party! -Bunch of under the hood stuff to make the tach super long life
  13. Hey All, Let me know what you think... I'm slowly getting this project rolling. I'm in beta stages of the 1st PCB design (already designing rev. 2), but I've been developing it for about 1 year now (on and off), but stuff really picked up in the last month. Right now it's designed for the DRZ400, but I plan on making many color maps for other engine specs as well. I install 3 beta PCB tachs into my buddies' BBK DRZ's this weekend.. so I might have an install video and pics.... plus some hoonage as well... It's designed around the AtTiny85 and WS2811 LED driver (NeoPixels on adafruit.com) Though I'll be building the LED bar myself so I can incorporate a nice large filter cap and data resistor. Features: -"Fancy" power-on animations and knight rider wipe effect (still working on perfecting the animations) -Only 3 wires to install (VCC, GND and spark sensor) (also its a direct sensor, not inductance or capacitance... so, very accurate and easy to install) -Auto brightness (day/night mode) -IdlesSet mode (changes bar mapping to 1K RPM - 2K RPM so you can set idle) -LED Color map based on DRZ400's dyno curves (Green is peak TQ, Yellow is crossover, and Red is peak HP, flashing is 1K RPM shift warning and limiter) -LED anti-aliasing on leading edge of bar (LED's fade in smoothly... purdy) -NO-RPM warning indicator( blinking yellow) Future Features: -3A USB port (for charging phones, etc. But, I'm not sure about the cost effectiveness of this and it increases the complexity of the install since it should be direct-battery and fused) (it's just something I'm designing into the next PCB rev.) Let me know if you would find it useful. Thanks! Andy Proof of concept video: (pic of PCB below... BRAAP!... also, its hand soldered under a microscope. fun.)
  14. Thanks Roleyrev! Yea it was definitely confusing. I tried splicing off the spade connector and then putting it through a Zener voltage regulator (5.1V), but I was getting nothing, and my current limiting resistor was wiping out all voltage. (1kohm) I'll take another look at it this weekend and see if I can get a signal sample, but even a pure signal sample was giving me just milivolts (just not sure what the scope's internal resistance is)... Maybe my load resistors are too high and I'm dividing the voltage against the 5kohm resistor in the plug? I don't think I was over 5k. Thanks for the inPut
  15. Hey all, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what voltage the white signal wire operates at going into the coil pack? Is it a low voltage 12V line, or is the coil capacitor inside the CDI making the white wire a high voltage line? Or is it just a relay switch line? I'm getting curious reading from my oscilloscope (sadly I never took a signal sample so I can't show you, I can get that this weekend), but I was getting 0.4V AC on the spark pulses... which was confusing since I was expecting 12V AC. Maybe my cheap scope it just retarded? I'm wondering how it should read? The white wire I'm referring to plugs into the spade connector on the pack.. like in image. Thanks for any help!