Funbags

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  1. I have Conti Attack SMs in 140/70. So far I love them, but I hear they aren't that great on life. I don't do much hooligan shit just a lot of twisties in the mountains and so far 1K mi on them and wear isn't noticeable.
  2. Thanks Max1m. I actually want to try that one day just for shits and giggles. So I can compare. Though I'm not sure a 160 will fit, not all of them anyway. I heard they usually rub. I have a buddy that has a DRZ SM with 150/60 rear, maybe I can jump on his bike, if I notice any difference. Only catch is that I have/am used to a GPR damper, and that changes the handling characteristics a lot. Maybe I can bug him to swap the tire one day to test it out on my bike.
  3. 2003 DRZ S. Slowly getting her built up and NOT performing like a garbage truck. Dynoed at 38.5HP. Next is a fancy exhaust and performance cams. No rush though. Been working on her for 3 years now. Rebuilt just about everything lol...
  4. Thanks for the input Joe. I thought people get the 60 height tires because that keeps the profile down. Makes sense that with the steel belts, that's probably not the case. I agree that differences are probably imperceivable to the average rider, and probably should vote with your wallet (because 140's can be super expensive) I just figured a 140 will mostly be better because it's lighter, higher profile, holds heat better, transfers the heat to the sides better, and provides just as much grip as a wider, heavier tire. Though, I'd be hard pressed to notice those benefits. Plus, I gathered that pretty much the only reason a larger tire gets better traction is because of a softer compound, that would over heat on a smaller tire. Actually, the more research I do, the more I come to conclude that 140 for a supermoto is the optimum size, at least for the smaller/weaker ones like my DRZ. Thanks! You've probably already seen this, but this irish dude (or Canadian... hard to tell... lol) does a good job at explaining it better than I can Helped me with a lot of the more complex ideas. derp
  5. Thanks for the replies!!! It's for a DRZ400S converted to an SM. Not racing, just being an idiot on the twisties in New England. Maybe a track day or two, but nothing serious. I'm very happy withe the Conti Attack Sm's. Very sticky. It came up in a conversation I was having with someone. They wanted new tires for the DRZ SM, and I suggested sticking to the SM specs to keep the bike nimble, but my "proof" was anecdotal. Wondering if anyone had more input? From what I understand 150/60/17 rear is a trade-off to keep the profile down because the pinch from the wider tires would make the tire's profile too tall. So, people drop the profile by 10 mm to compensate on a 4.5" rim. Hence the 150/60, instead. 120/70/17 Front and 140/70/17 rear is what was recommended by a sumo racer friend for a fun and whip-able bike. He said that its more fun to have the tire close in dimensions. I also believe it is the stock dimensions for the DRZ400SM. I just dont know why its such a fun setup. I'm essentially looking for an explanation. My theory is that the tire contact patches are more symmetrical, front to back, and the 140 tire is lighter in weight so better response... but not sure/have no proof. Thanks!
  6. *Moved from sportbike forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  7. *Mods please Delete this thread. I posted another one in the dirt/sumo forum Hey All, A while back a racer buddy explained to me that the best combo for tire size with lean angle in mind (for supermotos) is to have the front and rear tire as close to each other in terms of size and profile as possible for best and smoothest results in learning. I tried to find more info about it but found many contradictions. Some said 150 better, some said 140. And at that, they were talking about different tire models/mfgs and combinations. I tend to believe that the thinner rear tire gets you better/quicker/smoother lean and is also lighter weight so better response. But I'd like some more opinions or some stats if you have any. My Question: Is a setup of 120/70/17 and 140/70/17 on 4.25" rims, going to get you smoother and more stable results than a 160 or 150 rear? My current setup is Conti Attack SM's 120/140 (1.5K miles on them and loving it) Thanks for any help!
  8. Thanks man. That's a lot of info to absorb. Going to reread that a few dozen times. Thanks!
  9. Thanks William! So I gather all this is pointless for a few reasons. 1. I don't have an accurate A/F at 1/4 2. No Keihin needles correspond to JD red and blue profiles. 3. I probably won't be able to get accurate readings. haha So if you had to guess, would you also say the AP is a little rich too? Should I go for a shorter duration? She doesn't feel as punchy as my buddy's DR350 with a pumper. Thanks for the heads up. I guess I'll just install the 150 main and EMN needle I have, and take her to the dyno, and see if she moves into danger territory...if not, then call it a win? Thanks!
  10. Thanks Swes! I keep staring at the needle chart... just as I think I understand it..... I lose it, and I'm confused again. Thanks for the warnings. I'm deathly afraid to burn her up, so I might just wait until dyno day again to put in the new needle and main jet. So what exactly is the EMN needle changing? I'm so confused. THis is how I'm reading the chart. EMN : Richer | Leaner | same 1/8 - 1/4 | 1/4 - 3/4 | 3/4 - 4/4 EFT : Leaner | Richer | same 1/8 - 1/4 | 1/4 - 3/4 | 3/4 - 4/4 Which is why this is confusing. EMN is not what I want out of a needle. I wanted a richer mid, and leaner low. Should I get another needle? Like the EFT? Thanks again.
  11. Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note:
  12. Sweet man. Thats the best kind of present. You get exactly what you want. Hahaa I did the same thing with a pumper carb(the one that comes stock on your bike, but not on mine) Bikes are the best drug in the world! If it's your first bike... Be sure to get as much gear as you can. Ride safe and welcome to a hobby that will consume your life... And your wallet. Hahaha
  13. Wes b, Comming Allahng nice dude. Have you considered a light coat of VHT on your header? It really helps it look brand new. Emphasis on light coat. Too thick and it can cip off in a few months. I ran VHT on my header for a season of offroad and some long road trips to bear mountain, and it still looks untouched. Cheers.
  14. Gene, What tank bag are you sporting? Looks like it was designed for the DRZ. Looks awesome.
  15. B o o b s math!