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About bb.mitchel

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    TT Newbie
  1. bb.mitchel

    My new drz400 12 o'clock bar

    I worked something out specifically for this thread 2months ago. Ready to go. Have some stunt racks. They fit the sm as long as you dont have an orm exhaust. http://m.ebay.com/itm/suzuki-drz400e-12-oclock-stunt-rack-/162507650708?nav=SEARCH It took research and my hard earned cash to make this happen. You are welcome
  2. bb.mitchel

    How can i make my DRZ look more awesome!

    Buy one of these http://m.ebay.com/itm/suzuki-drz400e-12-oclock-stunt-rack-/162507650708?nav=SEARCH
  3. bb.mitchel

    How can i make my DRZ look more awesome!

    So i found a company that will not be named. Long story short. I have some nice 12 oclock stunt racks being made thatd make every bike in this thread better
  4. bb.mitchel

    Disturbing noise after turning engine w/ cam chain at the bottom.

    Its the carb slide on idle. If there is any more doubt. Take off the intake boot and watch it jiggle with the idle until its held in place by pulling on the throttle. Id guarantee that noise goes away once its all back together. Well mostly.
  5. bb.mitchel

    DRZ 400 sm highway info

    Tbh. If your gonna daily your drz. Just get an e and be done. I do 70km of commuting on mine each day. Now i can already hear the tone of the replies but theres method to my madness being you want an sm. But here goes. 1. E tyres cost less than the sm road tyres. Your a commuter. Get a good price on quality wheels and your set. Solid and reliable and cheap. And if traffics an issue chasing over hills and down trails around traffics also an option. I run a solid 70/30 and my wheels last a good quality 4 months. I do take them to 6 though. 2. The e as crate is okay until 115kms. Not great but not bad. Certainly not worth whinging about. So keep on the speed limit and youll have a good cruise. 3. E rims, chains and sprokets and general parts generally (not NOT always) shy in a touch cheaper for good quality stuff. most of its same same difference though. 4. If you buy an e. Buying a backup e like i did means everything is bang identical. The only decent sm ive seen in two months thats spare non riding worthy of sticking in the shed was 2200. A quality backup e for the shed flies in at 1500 sweet. As an answer to engine reliability. So far. My drz came crate. Ive done 17312kms as of right now. My valves are well in spec. The cam chain adjusters still got 5 clicks. Engine compressions emaculate. Pretty much the engines going strong. Do your reasearch and be smart and these bikes are bulletproof. The loctite fixes done and other bits and bobs covered. The only bad thing so far as to say is the stock bashplate for the e is rubbish. And if you do your research here on tt. They tell you all about the rubbish bash plate. I will say this. If you ride an sm around stairs and or concretes. Riding up stuff and abusing them Youll destroy the sm wheels quicker than the e wheels. The sm wheels will not cope with floggings like the e ones. The e ones will cop some serious amount of abuse and i highly recomend them. I will say though. Id rather the sm front end. I personally think taking an e and turning it into the sm is more expensive and alot of work. But 100% better off way to go. Shed full of spares and a wealth of knowledge and time well spent is the reward rather than just buying a bike and winging it till stuff breaks. Just buy an e and fill you shed with parts till you got your sm conversion. Itll be the best commuter youll ever own and ever ride. Youll never go without a ride if you use your noggin.