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  1. 1999 KX250 with 2013 KX450F fender, front number plate and shrouds:
  2. Finally done with my KX250 rebuild. Brake calipers and transmission is untouched, everything else have been taken apart and inspected and rebuilt if necessary. I tried to keep the costs down though, the total parts cost is $2300. Base facts: Chassis: 1999 KX250 Engine: 1998 KX250 Brakes: Steel braided brake lines, no-name front master cylinder (BIG improvement over OEM) Plastics: 2013 KX450F "Villopoto" front fender, front number plate and radiator shrouds. OEM rear number plate and rear fender.
  3. ress

    1999 Kx250 with 2002 motor

    To my understanding there is almost no engine years that are exactly the same. Different cylinder, porting, jetting, gearing etc. Externally a 02 motor should fit a 99 chassis though. Why wouldn't it? 99-02 chassis are basically the same except for other fork and some other small mods. But the motors are almost certainly not the same internally, and I'm not sure how they differ. I think you misspelled, which year differs from 99?
  4. ress

    1999 Kx250 with 2002 motor

    Interesting question, you might get some more insight from the links below. Is there any good summary of engine differences during the years? I just found out that the 1999 KX250 I'm rebuilding have a 1998 (or possibly 1997) engine. I'm not sure whether that's a bad thing or not... So far I've found a good explanation of how to identify engine year: This is a good site to find out which part fits which years: http://www.oem-cycle.com/KAWASAKIKX250BIKEID.shtml But I would like to know which year has best power at which revs, reliability issues, etc.
  5. ress

    Kx 250 Jetting Database

    Sounds like a plan, I like the idea of 40:1 mix (I'm using Castrol Power1 2T, I think that's the european equivalent of TTS). I think I'll start off with NOZG-1/158 main/45 pilot/50 power, 33:1 mix during break-in, then move over to NEDJ-2/158/45/50, 40:1. Will update once it's up and running!
  6. I made a Kawasaki 2-stroke service report, thought someone might be interested. I hope it will make it easier to track what service I've done and what's coming up. It's based on the periodic maintenance chart from the service manual of my 1999 KX250. I've made some alterations and merged a couple of items. The idea is to print it double sided to get space for additional comments. It would be interesting to hear your opinions. Excel: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3yiF_m3txnERzhXY000MTdTWXM/view?usp=sharing PDF: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3yiF_m3txnEZkhQOFVTR29VQms/view?usp=sharing
  7. ress

    Kx 250 Jetting Database

    At sea level, 10-30 °C
  8. ress

    Kx 250 Jetting Database

    Hope I can get some help here. I'm in the middle of a 1999 KX250 rebuild. As I bought it in the middle of the winter I have no idea how it runs. According to the previous owner it ran excellent of course Motorwise, it will get a top end, new nikasil coating and new Boyesen power reeds. Took the carb apart this weekend and it had the following setup: Main: 158 Pilot: 45 Needle: NOZG (N0ZG?) Seems to be a 2.715mm triple taper with the first two tapers close together, around 10mm. Needle pos: 1 (top) Power: 55 Air screw: 1,5 Slide: #7 I think the needle is from a -98 KX250 (it also has a -98 Pro Circuit exhaust). Any more info about this needle, is it any good? I'm looking for a base line jetting that I can optimize later on. I have a set of jets from the Moose Racing carb rebuild kit including: Main:165 Pilot: 52 Needle: "D514" 2.735mm, not sure if tapers are the same as Kawa N3xW Power: 50 Should I get a Suzuki needle? I'm thinking something like: Main: 158 Pilot: 52 Needle: NEDK/NECK Needle pos: 3 Power: 50 What needle and settings would you recommend to start of with? I've attached a couple of pictures of the old piston.
  9. ress

    Kx250 forks

    Yeah that's correct, I meant 46mm KYB for the 1999-2001 KX250.
  10. ress

    Kx250 forks

    What's the problem with your current fork? It should work fine when tuned right. If you get a used fork you want new seals, bushings and oil, possibly new springs. $$$ The only upgrade I've found worth the effort is the Showa 47mm on early 2000 RM/RMZ which should bolt right on. It seems to be a good fork, others might know more about how it compares to the 47mm KYB. It's definatly more "modern" (advanced), for better and worse. Ohlins cartridge kits are available for this one which makes it interesting. Another option is to find 2001 triple clamps. That way you could fit KX250F forks (also Showa 47mm). Have a look at http://www.oem-cycle.com/BikeIdentification.shtml Your fork dimensions are 54.9mm at the top and 58.4mm at the bottom. Of course you have to make sure the wheel axle and brake caliper has to fit as well. Here are some dimensions on other forks (dont quote me on this though, always double check) 1999-2001 KX250: 54.9/58.4, KYB 47mm 2002 KX250: 55.9/59.2, KYB 48mm (probably not a upgrade worth the effort). Triple clamps should bolt on to your bike. 2006 KX250: 55.9/59.2, KYB 48mm. Steering stem are too long for your bike. It should be possible to switch stems though. 2004-06 KX250F: 55.9/59.1, KYB 48mm 2006-10 KX250F: 52.7/58.4, Showa 47mm. Should bolt on if you can find or make 1mm thick spacers. 2011-14 KX250F: 52.7/58.4, Showa 47mm SFF. Cool fork, people seem to have separate opinions on how good the are though. Should bolt on if you can find or make 1mm thick spacers. 2006- KX450F: 53.8/59.1, Not sure if this is accurate for all years or which forks are used which years. Steer free from the air forks if you don't want to spend days setting it up. 2001-2004 RM125: 54.5/58.5, Showa 47mm. Bolt on! 2001-2003 RM250: 54.5/58.5, KYB 46mm. Probably same forks as you have, might be different springs and valving. 2004 RM250: 54.5/58.5, Showa 47mm. Bolt on! 2005- RM125/RM250: 54.5/58.5, Showa 47mm. Bolt on! 2005-2012 RMZ450: 54.5/58.5, Showa 47mm. Bolt on! Good luck
  11. I love DIY's. Couldn't find one on how to fix the radiator shroud fixing points in the fuel tank so I thought I'd make one. My bike is a 1999 KX250. Materials: - Insert screws - M6 screw and possibly a couple of nuts and washers - Drill - Alcohol cleaner - JB Weld Plastic Bonder - Grease This is the fuel tank. Bought it recently a repair that didn't hold up: Previous repair done with a impact nut, didn't do the job: The answer is insert nuts for wood. Can be bought at hardware stores and on eBay. You also need a M6 screw the same length as the insert. Mine were a little bit to long, fixed it with a couple of washers: 1. Start by drilling out the holes to fit the insert. In my case, that's 9.5mm: 2. Clean out the holes and the inserts with alcohol or similar: 3. Add some grease to the M6 screws and washers, you don't want the glue to stick to them: 4. Mount them together, be careful not to get grease on the outside of the inserts: 4. Use a good epoxy. Fat plastics are not easy to glue, JB Weld Plastic Bonder is the only one I could find that is recommended for fuel tanks. Also available in black. 5. Mix the glue according to instructions and fill half the hole, try to get rid of air pockets. I'd recommend you to do one hole at a time. 6. Screw in the inserts and remove excess glue. Then remove the M6. If you are worried the insert will follow the screw out you could do it like this. Keeping the screw still while releasing the nut will make them easier to remove. Mine came out without any problems: Looks a bit beaten up from the last repair but I'm certain it will hold up! And don't redo the mistake of over torquing the bots
  12. ress

    01/02 KX250 Build - 1st 2 stroke

    Love it! What upgrade made the biggest difference?
  13. Allright, seems like I have to bite the bullet fix it. I'm from Sweden but there are some companies here that do nikasil replating, I'll give them a call. I wonder how many hours there are on the bike... 150-200?
  14. Thanks. I'm going to have a closer look at the wear ring at the top. I don't like the wear on the right side of the exhaust port either (some on the left also).
  15. ress

    '02 kx 250 restoration

    I like it, wheels look awesome! Thinking about black plastics with those graphics.