RMZ2Fifty

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About RMZ2Fifty

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  1. Hello all, I’m getting no readings from my ECT Sensor when testing voltage. I’m supplying 12v to service coupler and get readings when testing condenser leads. A lot of stuff is unplugged as the bikes apart, but wire diagram shows ECT Sensor gets power source from and to ECU which is plugged in. Is this enough to say ECU or ECT Sensor wires are faulty?
  2. I noticed the coupler was broken and not clicking so I replaced it and figured I’d test the leads easier while the coupler was off. With a multimeter I’ve tested continuity and resistance and I’m getting larger readings from the positive wire than negative and my condenser leads, I test those to compare the results to ECT Sensor. I put multimeter on the >+ setting (told was continuity) I get 910 -914 on condenser negative and positive and ect negative, but I get 1340 on ECT positive. I am getting these results by placing red probe on the negative lead (in the dead end coupler on right side of bike used for electrical testing.) and black probe on the positive lead of ect sensor. This reads 1340 and 4.5 when I switch it 200k ohms setting. I get 1.0 with other wires but have to set it to 200 Is this telling me my resistance is higher, and possibly the wire is damaged? Any help would be great, thanks!!
  3. I noticed the coupler was broken and not clicking so I replaced it and figured I’d test the leads easier while the coupler was off. With a multimeter I’ve tested continuity and resistance and I’m getting larger readings from the positive wire than negative and my condenser leads, I test those to compare the results to ECT Sensor. I put multimeter on the >+ setting (told was continuity) I get 910 -914 on condenser negative and positive and ect negative, but I get 1340 on ECT positive. I am getting these results by placing red probe on the negative lead (in the dead end coupler on right side of bike used for electrical testing.) and black probe on the positive lead of ect sensor. This reads 1340 and 4.5 when I switch it 200k ohms setting. I get 1.0 with other wires but have to set it to 200 Is this telling my my resistance is higher?
  4. Yea still find it tough, I might pull top end to get better feel for it off the bike
  5. And I have to run pim 2 with yoshi slip on? How much performance difference does this set up add? The harness is madness I wouldn’t mind removing it if were not talking about much.
  6. @ THE KRAN I believe I have standard stock mapping, as the coupler connected is white but has no wire coming out like lean coupler does. Plus I’d expect if PO had pim 2 connected that it make sense to adjust a stock map vs rich or lean. You seem to kno your shit, I don’t have o2 sensor but would you mind shining some light on its importance I get it measures unburned oxygen but shouldn’t my air readings be accurate from sensors?
  7. I also wanna just point out the fact prior to manually tightening the tensioner that those tdc marks would never lock position they would always be just left of them. Which would be retarding the ignition timing, bike started fine, but I’ve been hearing a ticking noise forever so I figured slack in chain was moving the tdc marks, then it must be to loose and possibly the ticking. Still ticking but whenever I check the marks on fly wheel and cams they’re spot on so I think that’s a good step in one direction. Possibly I’m still doing something wrong with valve clearance measurements. &%$#@!ing cam journal cap is a son of a bitch right in the way!!! At the angle you have to stick the feeler gauge in which is like 80 deg. Makes it seem like any thicker gauge just has trouble fitting period, but I always seem to fit an out of spec gauge under the lobes. I do eventually get complete resistance, but I feel like I’m forcing the lower gauges in to fit.
  8. As much pressure I can with my fingers, but I’m nothing compared to pressure the engine would put. As for too loose manual references checking top guide for wear I’ve never seen any... it was hard as hell to put it on just 2 clicks from its actual point. If you think tighter I’ll try. I was told once, one of them represents fire assuming that’s your ignition I’d also assume the middle one is that because that’s what your essentially lining up with the outer case mark. So I’ve found a timing chain blog post that is for Kawasaki but they’re nearly identical with Suzuki on MOST parts and specs. Don’t know if that’s much help to us but I did take 3mm of slack from that blog which I was aiming for with my adjustment. I thought I remember reading a measurement in one of my manuals between 13 teeth, but could be tripping. Problem is I use 2 PDF manuals I got online one is rmz 250 other is 450. Both don’t specify year, but include EFI which was introduced I believe in 2010 my bikes 2012 which is the same and most 450 stuff is the same, but not all but it goes more in depth man my 250, so I use it.
  9. What I'm trying to understand what's the right amount of fuel % per thottle position at each rpm. I understand that changing any cells at 2500 rpms above 50% throttle position would be irrelevant because it would already have enough fuel passing 2500 rpms and you'd never 50% the throttle at those rpms. The bike should be increasing fuel as rpms and throttle increase together, no?
  10. Yea I get the Dyno but isn't that under perfect circumstances, bike doesn't actually run that way, so wouldn't this be a true test as the environment I'm testing is its real operating conditions? Also the fuel adjustment photos I posted I believe are suggested adjustments, correct? Now I understand lean causes over heating makes a little sense, bike is running hot. Is adjusting my negative values to 0 bringing it to stock settings?
  11. Ok so I think I'm starting to understand this, the top 3 pics show measured Air to Fuel Ratio aiming for 13 which seems pretty close to me, but what does above or below 13 % represent too much fuel or air? Then bottom 3 are "Fuel Adjustment" assuming I increase or decrease these values fuel supply will change. Why do I have blank cells? 2100 rpms is idle how does it run with blank cells or is it that a blank cells use stock setting, rather than representing 0%?
  12. So took fuel tank off filter was a little dirty so I cleaned it all up. How would I check pump? Seemed fine but is there a way to test? Injector is on the tank or throttle body? Might be worth checking out. As for the mapping, i found other readings took pics but on my iPad. Now your positive I’m running lean just from that photo? Lean is beneficial for racing correct? But not in cold weather correct? Because it is cold here and bike wasn’t acting up earlier in season. I wouldn’t mind have a rich set up and lean set up and in between or what ever is suggested to have bike at its best performance.
  13. I guess I could try a timing light, but whether those are ignition timing marks they represent TDC because it’s when piston is at its highest point. There’s 2 marks on the side of fly wheel and between them on top. Manual references these as TDC marks also. Correct spark plug, yes. Another topic is suggesting I’m running very lean. But as my auto tensioner doesn’t seem to working correctly here’s a pic of my pushing on it Tension seem fine? I can do video if necessary..
  14. I have a top end noise that Is possibly bad timing chain. I adjusted valve clearance, hoping that was the noise but wasn’t. I notice the timing chain looking loose, as I’ve heard auto adjusters some times are faulty I manually adjusted (pushed out 2 clicks.) Chain tightened up but still hearing the noise. Before I manually adjusted tensioner TDC marks would never stay aligned. Seemed like slack in chain was allowing cam sprocket to move both flywheel marks and cam marks. A few new symptoms (white spark plug, white valve stems, back fire, carbon build up & glowing header pipe) have me thinking may be timing is advanced? These are my timing set ups... Going off manual I’d say they’re spot on