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About Daniel627

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  1. Sounds like you have your hands full! I'm always eager to try getting projects like that, but financial times aren't always that great, and they get put on hold. We'r got my girlfriend's son a crf50 a couple christmases ago and he's since grown out of it, and I'm looking to get him something bigger as well, probably same as you, an xr/crf 80. Maybe make it a project for us to work on together. Good luck on the bike, keep us posted on the progress! As for the manual, you can get a Honda manual on Ebay for not much, I think. Maybe someone on here has a pdf copy for you though
  2. I can't really give any insight as to what might've caused all the oil to puke out. Maybe you overfilled? Temps high when you put it back together? I don't know much about those kind of issues. As for changing fork seals, I kinda think along the lines of changing brake pads/shoes, I would change both sides at the same time. You might contact Mark Atterberry at Cannon Racecraft in Oklahoma City with your spring concerns. Tell him what forks you're running, what your weight is and riding style, and he should be able to help you out. They make their own springs, so I'm sure they'll be the ones who can help. Tell him Daniel with the XR200R gave you his info. I'm curious how many people are hitting him up. He helped me out with my XR250R forks on my XR200R and it's awesome. What are the gold rims off of? I don't remember if you mentioned that before. Glad to hear the foot pegs are working out
  3. I will attest to this, I live in Moore Oklahoma. I hate even trying to get out and mow the lawn or weedeat/edge, let alone go ride the trails. Freaking mosquitoes attack as soon as you step outside in the evening. We've had semi mild summer temps the last couple summers, but I can remember the year we had 110+ days that were over 100F degrees, and many of them were around 110 degrees up to 114 degrees, plus humidity included. I was operating equipment that had no cab or A/C and it sucked balls! I would've rather been back working in Yuma AZ in 114 degrees with no humidity. I don't know Mr. Firestone, yet, but hope he's ok as well. Circumstances often change and people can't always get to everything. Certain things might get the back burner and checked on when time permits. That might be the case with him and TT.
  4. Forgot to include these pictures. Might be helpful for someone to recognize which CDI they should have. KT0 is the smaller, '86+ 2 valve CDI module. KK0 is the larger '84-85 RFVC 4 valve CDI module. There is a considerable size difference, in case you somehow encounter one that doesn't have markings on the plug. Hope this is helpful to someone.
  5. Update... I went out this evening, pulled the bike out of the garage, and swapped out the CDI modules. Put it all back together, turned the fuel on, hopped on the bike to kick and see if I could get it to start. Grabbed the throttle to try getting some gas in the carb, and, NO GO! I obviously forgot to drain the carb before parking it the last time I got it running. So the throttle needle is stuck. It's hot and humid and I don't have time to mess with it before I leave Sunday, so I'll clean and rebuild the carb when I get back from working out of town.
  6. Well, if it works, I should be able to call up trail tech and get whatever wiring needed for it. Shouldn't cost much at all to ship. That's a really nice gesture, I'll take it!
  7. Yes Arthur, I'm well aware that both valves will be closed at the same time during the compression and combustion strokes. I meant maybe they were closed during a point they should but be.
  8. I had that issue with mine. Had the engine rebuilt, by a guy that owns a business repairing and rebuilding motorcycles, ATV's, sprint cars, basically anything. I thought, hell, he knows what he's doing it should be bad ass. Nope! It took me getting a Honda manual, and a friend and I going through, checking anything it could be, so we thought. Finally found out the rotor piece on the pulse generator was 180 degrees out, and valves were way out of adjustment too. I just found yesterday, that my CDI box is wrong, so I think tomorrow I'm gonna switch to the right one and try. As for the engine not moving, mine did something similar when I got it. If it was in gear and I kicked it while pulling the clutch lever, it would still roll forward. If it was in gear and I pulled the clutch, I could hardly push it. When it went for a rebuild, I found out that all the clutch plates pretty much glued themselves together. They got separated and cleaned, problem solved
  9. Timing may be off, somehow causing both valves to be closed at the same time? I don't know what else could cause that. Rings trying to seize up in the cylinder? I dunno. Tell him I'll give him $200 for it 😁🤪
  10. Thank you thank you Chuck!!! I went out and pulled the tank off my bike to look at the CDI module. Sure as shit is not the one I'm supposed to have. It has a KK0 on it. Luckily, I pulled this off the '86 parts bike today. It's a KT0. I'm going out of town to work in a few days for 4-8 weeks, and when I get home, I'm slapping the whole setup in there! I hope that will be the make all the difference in the world and change it from 20-30 kicks, down to the normal Honda 2-3 kicks and get me riding all the time then.
  11. I came across this post earlier while trying to find something else, but it made me think about my bike, and think it very well could be my problem. In this post, Chuck states to NOT use the CDI box from an '85 4valve motor on a 2valve motor. When I got my '90 XR200R I had the motor rebuilt. The bike had an aftermarket Chinese CDI box on it, and the guy said that might be a problem with it starting. I had an '85 XR200R I bought first, and it had the CDI still on it, so I took it to him and he put it on, since I had no other options, I didn't know they were different, and money was tight. The bike didn't wanna start. I found the pulse generator was 180 degrees out and valves way out, so I got that corrected. Bike will run but has been super hard to start since then. My question is, when I put the correct CDI in, should it wanna start with ease? Like it's supposed to?!
  12. The XR250R motor isn't going to be a direct swap into the atc200x frame, not sure if you know that or not. That 250 motor will bolt into an '84-85 XR200R but that's it. The '86+ XR200R motor, and '83-85 atc200x motors have the same motor mount positions. The RFVC motor has different mounts on cases/frame, so you would need to make fabrication changes to the frame. As for that 250 motor going with the big bore and other changes, you would make pretty good power, especially in a 200x. You would more than likely have to make some changes to the exhaust as well for it to work, but I'm not definitely for sure. Never heard of anyone putting the XR250R engine in a 200x frame, so I dunno. Give it a go and let us know how it works out.
  13. I wouldn't go spending a bunch of money on specialty tools til you know what needs done (unless you just wanna have the tools). You only need basic tools to pull the top end off and inspect. If it's something like a broken cam chain tensioner, there might not be any damage to the head, and no need to remove the valves. But, it could've jumped time, and a valve went through the piston. In that case, you would probably need to rebuild the head with new valve(s) and valve seals, maybe machine work to fix the valve seat, a new piston and a fresh bore. That is if pieces of the piston didn't gouge the cylinder walls too deep. Then you'd be needing a new sleeve and a machine shop to replace it. Hopefully it's nothing that major like that though.
  14. You'll have to pull the motor. The top frame tube is in the way, the rocker cover won't even clear the studs before hitting it. Removing the motor isn't hard though. Remove the carb, unhook a few wires and clutch cable, remove all the motor mount bolts, and wiggle her out. The motor's kinda heavy I guess but easily manageable. Good luck and hope it's nothing major
  15. Krylon! Or Duplicolor! Unless you're selling the bike, or wanting a show bike, I wouldn't worry so much about that stuff. I mean you could touch up the paint on the cases, and some of the spots might not chip off again, some might. As for the frame, if you spray paint it, your boots will have it worn off again in no time flat. About the only way you'll have the frame looking good with a paint that'll last a while, is to strip the bike to a bare frame, have it sandblasted and either have it powder coated, or painted with high quality automotive paint. Eventually, over time it will end up right back where it is now due to rocks, roots, tree limbs, boots, and whatever other debris can hit it. If you wanna paint just those areas, I'd get some cardboard or paper, mask off what you don't want painted, rough up the areas you're painting with a lil sandpaper, and hit em with the spray can. Give it 2-3 coats of paint, or more if you desire. Be sure to give sufficient time between coats. Hope this helps a little