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About phatsmall

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  1. My purpose is to compare with other bikes and find out if it is acceptable. Till now I understand it is acceptable.
  2. Valve seals and valves have been changed. But once again, what is your oil consumption for 10 hours?
  3. If I understand correctly the clutch is slipping and in the last lap was tottaly f****d. Check the clutch cable set up and you must have some free move - just 1-2 mm, otherwise it could cause slipping. If the clutch cable set up is OK you have to open the clutch cover and inspect all the parts in there - if you are not experienced, please check you tube for videos(just for example: Take out all disks - metal and friction discs. Check carefully the metal discs if they are bended or worn out. But really detailed check on flat glass or something like this. If you find even one bad disc - replace all of them. Check the friction discs and if you see dark/black disc or worn out discs . If even one is dark or worn, please replace all of them. In case you have black discs or bended discs, you probably have to replace the springs as well as they will not do the job any more. Also if you have slipping clutch, it is absolutely mandatory to replace the oil and filter (as least once). Once everything is OK, carefully assemble the clutch and I suggest you to use torque wrench for all the bolts - it should be about 9 - 10 Nm. If you have any doubts, check again in the video or post you question and wait for reply.
  4. What about the numbers on the handlebar?
  5. I have Kx250F 13' with Renthal 997. When I replaced the stock one I din't remember the default position of the handlebar. I tried to estimate it and put it back, forward, again back and again forward..... So now I'm a bit confused. I know it is personal setting, but could you please give me some starting point to use. I'm 184cm and use standard seat, footpegs etc. I would apreciate your help, as now I'm not sure how to proceed.
  6. New piston rings would be nice to be replaced. Note that about 3/4 of the hours are on trial riding - to start riding after my ACL surgery. What I understand from all the people around me and the info in Google is that oil consumption is about a normal.
  7. The most important to be faster in the the rider. Use correct type tyre and use correct pressure in it.
  8. I believe this link will help.
  9. Or probably none of you change the oil
  10. I have kx250f 2013, about 60 hours after full rebuilt. I noticed that the oil comsumption is about 120 ml. I always put 900ml and after 10 hours I get out about 750-780ml. I'm far away from good rider, so I don't use all the power of the bike. Could you please share opinion on this point and what are your own results?
  11. Also lots of videos available on YouTube, but note that not all of them are 100%correct
  12. I have seen race/team bikes (KX250F 2016) with 4 gears, but I haven't heard about 6 gears. Also, I don't know how it could be done - to add 1 more gear, I think is no enough room.
  13. When I'm looking into these 2 bikes I see lots of difference and I don't believe it will fit. I'm curious why you should change your plastics with newer year..... it's a bit strange to me.
  14. In the past I have used ALl Balls for bearings, fork seals, master cylinder kit. Try to avoid the bearings as they work good for a very short period. The fork seals work fine and I had no issues at all. My current master cylinder kit is All Balls and it works fine. I'm sure it is not the best choice, but if it's installed correctly, the All Balls kit is not your problem. As notorious mentioned you have to find a way to take out the air.
  15. I have done complete redone of my front brake a few weeks ago - caliper, pads, hose, master cylinder. The correct way is to take a quick look at the manual, also to check YouTube for some videos, but note that all the people have different way to do the repair. What I have done, is to watch some videos, to look for some information and then I ordered all the parts I need. What I have ordered is: all the seals of the pistons - 4 pcs., boots 2 pcs, OEM pads, pin bolt, new brake line/hose, master cylinder seal kit. Additionally - castrol red rubber grease, brake cleaner, high temp synthetic grease, brake fluid 5.1 yamalube. Inspect all the parts carefully. Do not use cheap brake pads, some times they are not with exact and correct size and cause difficult moving in the caliper. I took the caliper down - cleaned everything, at the end I washed the caliper inside - with brake fluid. I put some red rubber grease on all the seals and pistons, note that the castrol red rubber grease is suitable to use and mix with the brake fluid. Some synthetic grease on the pins. After that I did the same with the master cylinder. Before installation check if the caliper is moving as never before - it should be easy and smooth move. Installed everything on the bike - using torque wrench for all the bolts. I put the brake fluid in the system and left the gravity to work instead me(you can use vacuum as well). When the fluid came down to the caliper I bleed the system - 3 pushes on the lever, then keep the lever and open the bleed bolt for a second(use clear hose to see if there is any air bubbles) - I repeated the same 5-6 time of more. Then the brake was almost perfect, if you keep push and back the lever(while the cap is open) you will see some air coming out. After the first 1- 2 rides the brake passed the bedding and became great. Also I believe the rest of the air came up and went out from the master cylinder. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. p.s. Please note that you will find a lot of wrong information in google and you have to find out which one is correct and which not.