ZooR1

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About ZooR1

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    1995xr200r, 2000xr200r, 2005rmz250
  1. I don’t want to screw around so I got new factory parts. I was able to replace the tensioner through the flywheel opening btw. It’s a tight fit wiggle but can be removed/replaced all from below.
  2. I picked up both my 200s about a year ago. Both not running. And both needed lower cam sprockets and had worn out cam chains. One bike was neglected and looked like it spent time at the bottom of a river and the other one looked like it had been seriously “tested”. Lol.
  3. I recently pulled the motor off my other 200. To go over the top end. It had a slight tick that I couldn’t get rid of. I thought it might be some wear on the lower cam sprocket. But I wanted to check the valves too. When I pulled the flywheel off I noticed that there was a little slack in the chain so I loosened the adjuster to check it out. Looks like the spring on the adjuster had gotten a little weak over the years and wouldn’t push all the way up. I did make a 3mm thread tool to be able to pull up on the adjuster for future use. That’s actually how I figured out that this one broke. I could engage the threads and the adjuster would just pull up and down with no tension. Hope pic below helps explain the tool. I just threaded a nail and made a handle since I couldn’t find a 3mm screw long enough.
  4. Already have that and the tensioner on order.
  5. Good to see you’re still around. I have found much wisdom in your posts. Helped me to resurrect two of these 200s. One is a 1995, the one in the pic is a 2000. Both are mostly stock except for 80s suspension. Will do on the cranking, but not till my clutch parts come. Got the other side apart too. Btw did you see my other Q about the clutch basket?
  6. Got a clutch basket on my Xr200r that has not only lateral play between the gear and the basket but a slight rotational wiggle to it. I bought a used basket off eBay which is rotationally tight but has a slight lateral play. Is there supposed to be any play whatsoever between the gear and the basket it is riveted to? Thanks in advance for any wisdom.
  7. Hey, anyone see one of these fail. Took a little ride this morning, noticed the motor ticking at idle. Tensioner felt weird. Decided to pull it apart. Note that top part of tensioner is pulled up into shaft and bottom part is broken off. Part is called tensioner setting bar.
  8. Oh and to correct, I am running a 110 main jet. One other thing is that bike pops on deceleration. I also checked and tweaked ignition timing. Was super close,
  9. Just wanted to show the carb. Also tried a 42 pilot. Kinda scratching my head on this one. Both emulsion holes and jet seem smaller than the 38.
  10. Yes I did think of that. The other one has a brand new carb on it too. I lucked into that off craigslist to replace the china special someone had put on it. I'll re-check the ignition timing, and do that float comparison, although I think I'd done that one already.
  11. Got the float at 1/2" when gently turning the carb upside down. Seriously wondering if some other mechanical gremlin is in the engine. Thinking about tearing down the top end on this one this winter and going over the valves and maybe some new rings to get the top end up. Also When I got this one I put a new cam chain on but didn't replace the bottom timing gear. It looked a little worn but not horrible at the time. Any other tips will be appreciated. I want her to rip like the other one. Thanks
  12. I know this is a little of an older thread, but Here's my question. I've got two xr200rs. One is a 2000 and the other a 1995. I've got the 2000 running really nice. Good throttle response and it pulls hard to redline. Both start pretty easy usually 1st kick with the choke up. The 95 takes a little longer to warm up and also lacks the throttle response and has a lag at full throttle and mid rpm. I've gone through both carbs meticulously and they are all stock with the 38 pilot and 112 main jet. The only real engine difference is that the 95 hasn't had the top end gone through since I bought it and is only pulling 180psi compression vs 205psi for the 2000. I've also set the cam chain tensioner, and the decompression lever has a couple mm sag before it engages (easy to test when the engine is running). I've learned a lot from the folks here on this forum, but I'm a little at a loss with this one. Thanks!
  13. I can also recommend the "Berryman Chem-Dip" one gallon carb cleaner. We got it from walmart for around $18. Really nasty stuff, but it kicks butt in cleaning carb parts. Don't leave em in too long, and don't put plastic or painted stuff in there.
  14. I've cleaned carbs many times, Just never knew these guys wear, and didn't know they can be easily pressed out. Just use a wooden dowel and tap out with a hammer. A pencil with no point will work too. Made a huge difference. Note the carb is over 17yrs old and this jet was probably never replaced. Still an easy check even on a newer carb.
  15. Had some running issues on one of my Xr200r's so I cleaned the carb and replaced the leaking carb intake boot. Still had some odd stuttering and poor idle. Revved fine at higher rpm. Then on a tip I pressed out the needle jet. The one on the right is the old one. Check out the wear. Gas was leaking past at idle and the bike would still run even with the idle air screw all the way in. In the second picture you can see the depth of recess on the top side of the needle jet. This will affect the fuel curve as you open the throttle all the way up. I hope the pics help anyone with similar issues.