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About joyhnye75

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  1. joyhnye75

    Will the 2007 rmz450 Frame swap with 05

    I think they changed the frame in 2007, read 1st paragraph in the article below. At the same time I don't know if that means that the motor won't mount just fine, not sure??,,. so you might be gambling a little. https://www.dirtrider.com/tests/off-road-bikes/141_0701_2007_suzuki_rmz450
  2. joyhnye75

    2007 rmz 450 oil change weirdness, pls help

    Here is pic of the two plugs I removed (bigger with the built-in washer had the screen, smaller to the right with rust on it it had no screen). there is a 3rd one recessed deep to the left of the big one, but it looks like is for keeping the cases together and not to be removed (I think??). thx
  3. I read web forums, etc, and I am still not clear how to change my oil on my rmz450. I just got this 07 RMZ for the first time, I am super exited!!!. , I have had KXs CRs, and it was always only one bold to remove and drain the oil. However, a lot of mixed info is out there for the rmz, for example I read that people claim that 2 bolts have to be removed, some guy even posted a picture in the forums but it shows 3 bolts being removed. I read the manual, and it talks about removing only one bolt to drain it,,. WTF?? Btw, I have learned that 08+ models have different oil change procedure/number of drain plugs, etc.. Here is what happened: Got the bike used, I located the bolt with the strainer (below shifter, facing sideways, not down!). I removed it, and the strainer, and only 400ml came out. I then removed the smaller bolt next to it (not sure what that one does??), slightly more oil came out, but almost nothing. Either the previous guy did not put enough oil, or there is another bolt I missed, and yes I warmed up the engine, then waited, etc.. So here is the next bizarre thing. I run the engine for few min, let it sit for 2min, put it on the stand, then open the oil check bolt and oil start following out, a lot!.. like 350ml before it stops coming out, then I tightened it back. That makes me think that some oil was not drained to begin with, right? Also the oil was black, not clear! Any help is appreciated!
  4. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    You know what , I removed the sub frame this weekend and took a look at that spring again, color looks identical like in your Pic. I first looked from the side and due to the dust on it I thought it was brownish. Color is actually blackish with some silverish flake dusted on the top, just like in the pic. Anyway, I think it is stock and in that case something to the rear shock was done for the heavier guy that owned the bike before, I know he had tuned it at Evo. I guess I have to take it to the tune shop if I want it set optimally, but no money for this now.. .thx for all your help guys!
  5. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    Thanks for the info. My spring color is different but who knows if they came with the same color when stock??
  6. joyhnye75

    Slide needle stuck, I can't believe it!?

    ok, I took a closer look last night and , and found what i was afraid of, which is "found nothing obvious". Needle hole/jet all looked fine, the sticking was actually coming from the slide itself jamming against the body, few times up and down and it started working. Why did it Jam??. I found very slight film of gunk on the slide and on the body, not enough to make one think it can do that, I mean very little!, I wiped with a towel/alcohol and yes towel was black but that is all..., the wheels were spinning, no loose chunks found, etc,, This time I examined how the slide works and that vacuum plate that you can remove, the on with the hole, sits very loosely??.. is that normal. Yes, it has a seal on it but it does not really click onto the slide. It seems like it rattles slightly as the slide is moving up and down. Could it have moved out of its place and caused the jamming?? Anyone know if it should stick to the slide? I assume not otherwise why not glue it. I am puzzled, and afraid it can happen again, any ideas folks? thx
  7. Anyone had their slide needle stuck. I was at the track 2 days ago, suddenly on one of the corners, I can't twist my throttle, it is stuck in the 1/4 open position... .. Long story short, left the track early, bummer!!!.., ripped the carb last night, all check out and from what I can tell the needle appeared to be stuck in the hole ( slide 3/4 closed position). I had to even gently use a screw driver to push the slide up to free it. wtf?? Needle appears not to be scored, the slide slides just fine and it looks fine, no dirt found, throttle axle rotates, etc.. I am about to open the bottom of the carb and inspect the part that the needle goes into (main jet, whatever that tube is called...) I can't wait to see what might be keeping the needle jammed, I tried to slide it back by hand, it won't go all the way, it wants to get stuck again.. Then, I had to go put the kid to sleep so I had to call it quits for last night.... Anyone run into this. ??
  8. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    I have become a believer in these minuscule changes of shock settings, sag, etc.. , not doubt!..., that is why I want my sag just perfect, hence trying to determine what spring I might have. thx
  9. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    Bigger than me for sure, not huge. . Yes, worse case I have to take it to a shop and have them measure it. I was able to get it to 102mm race sag this weekend, but my static sag is now at 40mm which is right at the top of the range before you need to get a softer spring (per some sources). It still sound crazy how 1-2mm supposedly makes a HUU..GE difference, per the Pros : ), that's crazy but I am no expert so I just follow their advise. thx!
  10. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    It is funky dark brownish color, not black for sure! What do you think?
  11. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    Thanks skorpan.., Yes, I did that many times, but no matter what I do it won't drop near 100mm. So that is why I am pretty sure my shock is too stiff ,but how stiff I don't know. For example if I buy one , let's say it is 6.3kg load rated, then how do I know that mine is not 6.2kg and in that case I am wasting my money as the difference is not much or the one I am buying is stiffer. You get my point? thx!
  12. joyhnye75

    Clutch pull options

    Cheaper option is to do what I did, works great buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stunt-Clutch-Pull-Cable-Lever-Easy-System-Fit-Suzuki-Honda-Kawasaki-Yamaha-Black/162988231411?hash=item25f2db0af3:g:p9YAAOSwEy1ayYIh then also this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stunt-Clutch-Pull-Cable-Lever-Replacement-Easy-System-for-Honda-Yamaha-Suzuki/142791455818?hash=item213f08b44a:g:kxsAAOSwbLZa8p7R Result: easy to pull, two fingers only, awesome for the track as you never loose grip of the handle bars.
  13. joyhnye75

    choosing rear shock spring??

    Purchased bike used, not sure what rear spring is in it now, Oem or other, how stiff?... but I can’t set the sag, it is always higher than 100mm. So I want to put a softer spring to try but not knowing how stiff is the one installed now, how do I know what to get, maybe my spring is soft enough and something else is the issue.??. I weight 183lb, average height. I was hoping to find a used spring, budget is tight. … Also, are all springs interchangeable between the makes: honda, yz, rmz, kex,etc.. or it has to be Kawi one. thx in advance ! ..forgot, for 06 KX450f
  14. joyhnye75

    2006 kx450f Engine noise when shut off

    video/sound does not work for me??
  15. joyhnye75

    High Idle?

    ok, just a quick update on the current status: Per Numroe's suggestion, I cleaned and lubed the hot start plunger/piston , sprayed some throttle cleaner in there, etc... but at the same time I also lowered the rpms via the RPM knob even more, and then did not experienced the hanging idle at my last MX track day. The hot start plunger did not look dirty and I am not sure if the cleaning did it or the lowering of the rpms, which I had tried before. I should have touched just one thing at at time to know what is fixing it. Just yesterday I finally installed my new adjustable fuel screw, which was the next thing to mess with. I adjusted it along with my boysen QuickShot-3 adjustable leak jet , installed by previous owner, and now my slight bogging when rapidly twisting the throttle is almost gone. I will test the bike in a week and see if all works good and update you all. btw, when I removed the oem fuel screw , it did not have a washer and a rubber o-ring at the top. I am surprised it did not leak previously, very weird??.. I looked inside the hole with a scope cell camera, since I did not remove the carb, to make sure it did not get left behind stuck but did not see anything. Very strange, unless it dropped while I was removing it , but I was careful and expecting it !?