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About raYzerman

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  1. raYzerman

    Yamaha Tools

    For that kind of job, you should get the Tusk Crankcase Splitter and Crank Remover/Installer tool, plus the Flywheel Puller (a must have for the job). Not that much money and worth it IMHO. It helps to have a bearing press, the hot/cold thing works but you have to have bearings perfectly aligned for them to go in... I made a simple press with a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and various washers, plus use an old bearing race. PS - Tusk tools available at RockyMountainATV but their site is down this a.m.
  2. raYzerman

    Yamaha Tools

    The Owner/Service Manual has a couple of pages of special tools with Yammie part numbers. There are aftermarket sources of similar tools that might be more universal at a better price...... as Steve said, what are you looking to do or what tool are you looking for... I'm sure there's plenty of us with certain tools we've bought to do a certain job, just ask.
  3. I used Permatex red hi-temp RTV gasket maker, the gray ok too, and ensure it covers the mating surfaces with no skips and only a small bead of it is necessary, as it will squeeze out. The red was nice, because you could see it. Once on, don't take too long (under 1/2 hr.) to assemble the cases. The Yamabond is perhaps better as it stays "wetter" longer. Yes to replacing the main bearings, others as necessary. I did the heat the case, freeze the bearing thing, a press is preferable.
  4. Well, wouldn't tell you it was there unless it was there, a whole page of it describing how.
  5. It's from the 2008 manual, which is same as my WR and the OP's. Sorry, I don't know if the valves are titanium or titanium plated stainless or stainless. But how would one get the best seating without lapping in the seats and valve faces?
  6. Are you sure? The service manual describes the procedure in 5-23, 23.
  7. Water pump is driven by a keyed shaft, it can rotate somewhat but should not spin. Replace the bearing and seals while you're in there, perhaps even a new shaft (there are aftermarket kits). Just me, but you need special tools to swap out a rod and even then you might not get it right..... get entire new crank, it comes with a rod all assembled.
  8. You should be measuring with a micrometer not calipers..... cams I bet are OK. Only you can determine valve damage, check leakage by pouring a bit of gasoline in the ports, see if it leaks out on the piston side. If unsure, Not a bad idea to buy OEM valves and have them lapped in. You can do it DIY, but not an expensive job for a shop if you take the parts in, they might touch up the seats. I don't think you need the second crankcase splitter tool.. The one I have (Tusk) will press the crank into the main bearings. The main bearings come separately you need to press them into the cases first.
  9. Sucks that you need a new cylinder....... shop around for piston/cylinder kits....
  10. Some math for you...... Partzilla prices for crank, main bearings, piston/rings, top end and bottom end gasket sets, $605. Tusk splitter and flywheel tools, $105.... add whatever else for top end, hope you only need to hone the cylinder. Other bearings should be OK but clean and inspect, as well as check all gears in there. You'll only know once you're in there if you need another $100 or so. You'll spend as much time on the new bike as working on this. Check out the new bike of course, but I think you're good as is for under a grand. To me a better deal than dealing with two bikes, blah blah.... your call of course, I'm good with that too.
  11. DEvil's Advocate..... is the other bike going to have as good an engine as the newly rebuilt one? OK just saw your reply...... still, I'd do some math.
  12. IF it were me, I'd go ahead and split your cases, see what's there. Take your time looking it over, no sense speculating too much at this point. I don't see why a rebuild isn't possible, and I'd be optimistic about minimal damage. I wouldn't care how many other brands of cranks are out there, I'd buy an OEM. Put together a parts list with crank and new main bearings, get an idea of the $$ involved. Chances are the rest are going to be OK, and bits of aluminum may have got chewed through the rest of the gears, and I'd worry more if steel parts were chewed and chipped gears.... buying the second bike isn't going to gain you much, go there only if you know your engine is a basket case or costs more than that other bike.
  13. In reality, you are in for a total rebuild... pull the flywheel off while in the bike and get the engine on the bench. Order all your parts and have them in hand before going too much further, you have to remember where to put stuff back. Replace all the internal seals/o-rings, including the ones that transfer coolant/prevent coolant from getting to oil, and the water pump seal is one of those. The other is a coolant tube joining the two cases. Get/find someone with a bearing press, goes way easier. I cobbled one up with 1/2" threaded rod, washers/old bearing races.... not the greatest but got the job done.
  14. raYzerman

    Tips for Bottom End Rebuild 2012 WR450

    Just went through this last year... I replaced only the left side case as my bottom end was fine, so didn't disassemble tranny, etc. from the right side case. Doing the right side is your call based on what you think you need to do to replace the right side main bearing. All the others are likely OK, but your call. You got it apart, do what needs or should be done while you're there IMHO. Basically with bearings you freeze the OD going into a bore, heat the ID when going over a shaft. I found I did not have to do any heating, and if you get the Tusk case splitting tool and crank press, it is money well spent, as is the special puller for the stator (I could not get it off otherwise). I hated pounding in the new bearings, even when frozen (and case heated) it was a process, and I made a press of sorts from a piece of threaded rod and appropriate washers, and used old bearing races as washers. Bit of a pain, so I'd find someone with a bearing press and it will be all over in a short time and way easier. Gasket set is listed for my '08 separately, don't see the listing for '12, if the '12 is the same, the '08 set may be the one, I'd check with a dealer. Good advice is to take pictures, tag and bag as mentioned, and don't do it until all your new parts are in your hands. Better to do it all at once than try to remember where stuff belongs later. Be sure to replace any O-rings and seals that are internal and you can't get at later. Oh yes, get the engine out before you disassemble, it goes way better, except to remove the flywheel/stator, do that in the bike. (I didn't look at your pics too closely, looks like you went further than I would have while engine was in the bike. And, you will NEVER get that clutch shaft to seal without a new engine case, my opinion, oil is under too much pressure.
  15. raYzerman

    Charging System or Battery? 2012 WR450

    Problem points to your stator, behind that cover. YOu may get in there and find little or no physical evidence, but likely one of the windings has shorted. The insulation on those windings is like a varnish coating, vibration/heat has caused a hole in it, shorting to ground or to one of the windings. I'd bet rectifier is OK.