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About raYzerman

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  1. Problem points to your stator, behind that cover. YOu may get in there and find little or no physical evidence, but likely one of the windings has shorted. The insulation on those windings is like a varnish coating, vibration/heat has caused a hole in it, shorting to ground or to one of the windings. I'd bet rectifier is OK.
  2. Sometimes life is a beatch. Big decision to make, I don't blame you a bit. It will come to you.... ride your new one more and see how it goes.
  3. Recommend looking at the sticky posts, in case you haven't already. It's sending me the leak jet route as well....

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  5. No, it's in the cover. If you pull the flywheel you will need the special puller, no need to go there. I'm going by memory when I had to take my engine out, so if I'm wrong, perhaps someone could chime in. I left my stator hanging from the forks while I took the engine out, I did pull the flywheel before taking it out (easier to do in bike than out). Bottom line, pull the cover off, won't take long, you'll know right away.
  6. Follow the manual. Leave the starter in place, it's just got an o-ring around it. Remove the shift lever and torque limiter, the bolts holding the cover on, pry gently, it won't come, look for that last bolt that's holding it on. IIRC, there is one behind the torque limiter. Remove cover and your stator is in the cover.
  7. The rectifier body should be grounded that's how it gets rid of extra charging voltage, usually they are bolted to the frame, which is grounded, just check it's a clean mounting.. Internally, it should not have any shorts to ground, nor the stator, tested at the respective connectors. I just looked at a 2011 manual I have, no test described for the stator. Your charging voltage is low, not sure why... I see that they say test the charging voltage at two connectors (I was wrong).... however, I would also test it at the battery, which includes the 10 amp fuse in the circuit and would let you know if the fuse is OK. Wish I could be more help.........
  8. Just some general comments from my dealings with bike electrics...... Battery at 12.8 is nearly or is fully charged, starting it would use a bit of juice, 5 minutes may not be enough to fully bring it back to where it was. I'd bet on the battery being OK for the moment. Not sure if you were testing the charging voltage properly, the whole system should be connected and take your readings at the battery. If low, take the rectifier off and make sure it is cleanly mounted, i.e., grounded. Test again. All I got for now, I'm not familiar with the '12 WR, perhaps someone with more experience will chime in.
  9. How does this sound.. I'd double check the chain guides are correctly seated, install the tensioner, rotate the engine 360 to normalize everything, then double check the timing marks with all the slack part of the chain on the tensioner side.
  10. The question would seem is there another lithium brand that has a larger size with similar or better capacity..... Shorai or Battery Tender brand, e.g. I have a Shorai in my '08 by previous owner, but it seems more than 1.25 thick just looking at it.
  11. I tend to think that spending $1000 isn't a waste on an otherwise functioning bike that you enjoy..... cheaper than a new bike, or a used one that you'll still spend $1000 on after you buy it. It's not like you're going to sell it tomorrow, too much fun, and what's any better really (sure we all want a new bike, but what we got is just fine). Think of it as maintenance cost, dirt bikes need this kind of maintenance unfortunately. You might reinstall the camshafts in the head and turn them to open the valves for inspection, the gasoline trick can tell you a bit maybe. I'd definitely go with a new piston and rings, but anal me would probably look for a new barrel too rather than hone the old one (unless you can precisely measure it), but, why not. I'd go with a new CCT as well, it will have whatever latest revision Yammie has on tap (e.g., Gen1 FJR's had a crappy one, Yammie redesigned it and revised it twice more).
  12. There is a hook tool for this, essentially a rod with a hook on the end and a T-handle on the other to help you pull.. or loop some wire in the hook of the spring and pull with a suitable tool or piece of dowelling as a handle.
  13. Kool, it's sounding real good. Put a voltmeter on the battery to get a reading before you start it. Then start it and check the charging voltage at the battery while running, maybe rev it a bit to see how it increases when you rev it.
  14. Some good discussion here, but is it not time to follow the two wires connected to the resistor to the source? Use a continuity tester at either end after disconnecting the battery. You really need to know where that power is coming from, and what else is in that circuit if anything. Also, my question is what happens if you do not connect up a resistor at all... will the bike still start and run? Use a known good battery from whatever, if your existing one is weak.
  15. The ones I have seen for heated grips for example are 27W and 10 amps, but any standard ignition ballast resistor will be about that..... no worries about being too specific, it will be close enough IMHO.