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About Yanka

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  1. Here's a portion from manual, perhaps that helps a bit
  2. If you have a set of rings why you only display one of them? 1st and 2nd rings are different. Edit: At least for my "E" model. Hopefully I'm not wrong about "S" model also
  3. I have something similar (older FCR39 slant style). since it was near to impossible to adjust fuel screw with carb in place, I bought R/D flex screw. When I removed the old one, there were no spring or o-ring on it. That kinda reduced that problem, but I haven't ridden it since so no battle test yet. Reading about the vacuum plate seal I'm going to check on that one also.
  4. I would guess - starter brushes. If there is power on battery when the starter button is pressed. To check starter relay (that's the one that clicks) I personally would shorten the big wire contacts on it, it should get the power to the starter. Or you could check if the starter gets power when button is pressed - much safer, but slightly not as easy way :). Or you could test the Voltage on the battery. Should be over 12V when nothing is turned on, and not get much below 10V when starting (or trying to). If those brushes are just starting to make trouble, probably you could roll the bike backwards a little bit while in higher gear. You will hear that starter gears engage to turn it over. Then with brushes on different spot it could start.
  5. When I wanted to change a cable because the old one was to hard to press, I decided to go with hydarulic and I'm happy with it. This was the cheapest I found https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/981/-/31780/Magura-Hydraulic-Clutch?v=5564
  6. I would check the compression anyway to eliminate that possibility. Sometimes it's hard to tell by just cranking. Then if there is a compression, there is a spark and it won't do nothing with starting fluid, I would start to investigate the spark components (coil, wires, perhaps CDI), I've seen rarely that spark is present on free air, but can't ignite the mixture under compression (on older bikes though, but still). Or replace another spark plug in case you've found a defective one. Best if you can find a working donor bike to swap and test components.
  7. Is there a compression? In basics it needs 3 things, compression, fuel/air mixture and a spark. Fuel mixture problems you can detect with help of a Starting Fluid, just spray it in the air box and try to start. I once had similar thing bike not starting after a while sitting. Idk how, but that time one of my valve seats got cracked and there was no compression (Honda nx650).
  8. Cool! Good that you didn't follow my thoughts :D. And good to learn a thing like this it could come handy in the future :).
  9. Yes, you can check the clearance if cams are in correct positions (basically all the round part is ok). But to be sure re-check it after putting cam chain on. and turn it around a couple of times and check again. Did you cut the seats for replaced valves? New valves in old seats will not last as they say. Even if it will not leak from beginning. I doubt that you will be able to see small shim differences by naked eye, prepare to purchase more that just two 3.0. When I was doing that for all valves I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKHCM4/ and good that I did, as I needed more than a couple before I found the right size.
  10. I can hear it, but can't really help with it. I would guess it's coming somewhere out of top end. Perhaps you could find a source of noise with https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html Then it would be easier to guess. Or, if you can't ride, but can work on the bike, perhaps it even could use some care, then I would take off the top end and probably find the problem. Also could replace rings and other easy parts if needed. Again, I'm not sure 'bout the source of it, just guessing.
  11. Well, it stalls from time to time, but if I turn it up then the high idle is even higher and I don't like that. When I fix it, I will turn it up a bit.
  12. Continued: So the carb is FCR39 slant on 2007 DRZ400E. When I rev it up and close the throtlle it revs higher than idle for some 3-4 sec. and then returns to idle revs. Don't have a tacho, but I would say it revs about 2000-2200 and then returns to 1200-1300 What are possible causes to that? Air leak? wrong jets? wrong fuel mix? My current setup: Main 160, Pilot 45, Pilot air 100, EMM needle from JetsRUs Fuel mix screw unknown, tried to turn it with homemade tool and now I really don't know where I am Probably on the rich side. But the symptoms chased me from beginning to the end.
  13. I have that thing much more distinctive when trying to accel from too low rpms (it happens when offroading). Don't like it but hope it will not brake my engine. Just trying to avoid such modes Usually by slipping clutch for a moment.
  14. 10V after charging disconnected from anything? It's dead! If charger is ok. How many V when charging? How many V on battery terminals when the dash dies from connecting the bulb? 11.5V when disconnected? Normally disconnected should show >12V, when charging, around 14V +/-, when turning engine with starter shouldn't drop much below 10V. If charging Voltage is too low it's probably charger/charging system fault, others for charged battery = battery fault.
  15. I started to hear smth like this from my rear brakes when changed brake pads to EBC Double-H on my street bike (VFR800). Was kinda concerned because I was riding on mountain roads then, but it does not affect performance, so I let it be.