Gary in NJ

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About Gary in NJ

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, airplanes, photography, my dog.

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  1. To have a good time on any dirtbike, you have to ride it like you stole it. If you are apprehensive about going over a rocky or rutted section because you are afraid of falling - you will fall. Look where you want to go and open the throttle. A lighter front tire, and speed, will take you over/ through/ around/ up just about everything. Fear=Falling. You have to let loose and enjoy the ride.
  2. The DRZ does a lot of things, but none of them better than a purpose built bike. It can be a track day bike (SM), but no where near was well as a purpose built supermoto or super sport. It can be a good trail bike, but it’s no KTM/WR. If you need a plated dirt bike it’s a great budget choice. It can be built into a specialized bike too. But off the showroom floor, it’s not great in any one area. It’s a $6,000 bike that needs another $2-$4k to finish it.
  3. What is the mating connector?
  4. I would conduct EVERY step of Noble's procedure. Start with a fully charged battery, then check the diodes of the R/R, then check the continuity at the stator, then check the continuity of the harness/connectors and then the VAC. Here's my thought, two stators - same problem - then it's NOT the stator. It's something else.
  5. It could be an obstruction in the system. I'd start with the oil line.
  6. Progressive rate springs are typically used where there is little to no tunability of the fork, such as a damping rod fork. Even then, there are much better options than progressive rate springs (Gold Valve Emulators). The compression and rebound damping is tuned on a micro level by the "clickers", and on a macro level by the valve stack. Multi-rate springs provide one thing - unpredictable movement of the fork tubes. For example, if you grab the brakes with progressive rate springs the forks will rapidly compress causing break dive and unsettling the suspension balance. With straight weight springs and a properly tuned compression stack, the compression curve allows the fork to react to the input in a controlled manor, allowing compliance and control.
  7. Why would you want to use variable-rate springs? Multi rate springs are usually used when the damping curve can not be properly tuned. The valve used in our forks can be customized to your needs fairly easily. I would install a straight-rate spring for your body weight.
  8. Change your petcock to a Raptor unit to avoid it happening again. The fuel in the oil didn’t do any damage, in fact it helped clean the engine.
  9. Not enough info...you're gonna have to do some preliminary investigation and let us know what you find. Really, it could be anything.
  10. Not disagreeing...just giving some background. I built an aircraft many years ago. In this process I removed the magnetos from the engine and replaced them with an electronic ignition. The "mags" provide two stages of fixed timing; @TDC for starting (below 500 rpm) and 25 BTDC for all operations. I replaced the mags with an ECU that allowed me to adjust timing based on rpm, manifold pressure and altitude. The manufacturer of the kit suggested I set the max advance at 42 degrees @ 2,700 rpm and 25 in. mg. During test flight of the electronic ignition I experienced detonation at high rpm/high MP. It was something that scared the crap out of me. It felt like some one threw a lawn chair through the prop. I backed the advance to 40 BTDC and it continued to happen a few times, so the timing was further reduced to 38 BTDC. Problem solved. Detonation (not pre ignition or pinging) is violent. Even though it was a single power stroke on a 4 cylinder engine, it shook the entire airframe and it felt like I was punched in the chest. Most people talk about detonation but are really describing pre ignition. Detonation is something that breaks stuff and isn't confused with anything else - once experienced (especially at 8,000').
  11. The DRZ is a dry sump engine. The oil pump supplies the correct amount of oil, at the correct pressure, to the engine. What you are measuring with the dip stick is the oil reservoir. 1800ml is a minimum system capacity, 2000ml is perfectly acceptable. Use two 1 liter bottles and then make note of where that level appears on the dip stick. That's your normal baseline, and you know what 1800ml looks like on the dip stick - that's your low value.
  12. Detonation is a rather violent event. It's not something you just hear, it's felt. It's a sudden and significant loss of power - you'd know it if it happened.
  13. Thanks. It's in pieces right now as I am done with the shake-down phase and I'm now finalizing the suspension and rear plastics.
  14. Did you modify the rear plastics or where they purchased? I like the removal of the number section.
  15. Suzuki spec'd a light weight for the forks for a reason, our forks work well with a very low viscosity oil. Many fork oils on the market have significantly higher viscosity then the label suggests. Do a google image search on the term "fork oil chart" and review the chart. Choose an oil that is actually 5wt during riding conditions.