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Gary in NJ

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About Gary in NJ

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, airplanes, photography, my dog.

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  1. Gary in NJ

    Drz 400e Only runs with choke on

    It’s not air leaks, but vacuum leaks you want to eliminate. Start the bike, allow it to warm up, and then spray carb cleaner in the area of the carb/cylinder boot. If the idle changes, you have a leak. Needing the choke to get the bike to run is a sign of a lean mixture. Since you say you have cleaned all of the passages and jets, we can move on from that. Have you checked the float height? What is the condition of the needle jet? Does it appear worn? Have you tried raising the needle one position?
  2. Gary in NJ

    Help identifying particles in oil

    I really enjoyed following this thread. Great detective work jj
  3. Gary in NJ

    Raptor Petcock on a DRZ fit? Yes, No and Yes & No

    T H A N K Y O U Erik. I've been searching for a reverse barb fuel valve for my DRZ Street Tracker project for a year. Little did I know that I already owned the correct part. I'll barb-swap as soon as I can. All parts are available on amazon: LTWFITTING Lead Free 90 Deg Elbow Brass Barb Fitting 5/16" Hose Barb x 1/8" Male NPT @ $8.99 (5 pack) Legines Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Drive Countersunk Plug, Internal Hex Socket Plug, 1/8" NPT Male @ $6.99 (Pack of 2) 21/64 Drill Bit 1/8-27 NPT Tap Combo @ $11.58 https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-93201-Combo/dp/B0797JWQ1R
  4. Fill the bars with bb's and use bar end weights.
  5. Gary in NJ

    Chain length question

    If you safety wire the clip on the master link it will never come loose.
  6. Gary in NJ

    Bad decision to get new drz400s

    To have a good time on any dirtbike, you have to ride it like you stole it. If you are apprehensive about going over a rocky or rutted section because you are afraid of falling - you will fall. Look where you want to go and open the throttle. A lighter front tire, and speed, will take you over/ through/ around/ up just about everything. Fear=Falling. You have to let loose and enjoy the ride.
  7. Gary in NJ

    Bad decision to get new drz400s

    The DRZ does a lot of things, but none of them better than a purpose built bike. It can be a track day bike (SM), but no where near was well as a purpose built supermoto or super sport. It can be a good trail bike, but it’s no KTM/WR. If you need a plated dirt bike it’s a great budget choice. It can be built into a specialized bike too. But off the showroom floor, it’s not great in any one area. It’s a $6,000 bike that needs another $2-$4k to finish it.
  8. What is the mating connector?
  9. Gary in NJ

    DRZ400SM issue with second new stator

    I would conduct EVERY step of Noble's procedure. Start with a fully charged battery, then check the diodes of the R/R, then check the continuity at the stator, then check the continuity of the harness/connectors and then the VAC. Here's my thought, two stators - same problem - then it's NOT the stator. It's something else.
  10. Gary in NJ


    It could be an obstruction in the system. I'd start with the oil line.
  11. Gary in NJ

    Replacement options rear shock

    Progressive rate springs are typically used where there is little to no tunability of the fork, such as a damping rod fork. Even then, there are much better options than progressive rate springs (Gold Valve Emulators). The compression and rebound damping is tuned on a micro level by the "clickers", and on a macro level by the valve stack. Multi-rate springs provide one thing - unpredictable movement of the fork tubes. For example, if you grab the brakes with progressive rate springs the forks will rapidly compress causing break dive and unsettling the suspension balance. With straight weight springs and a properly tuned compression stack, the compression curve allows the fork to react to the input in a controlled manor, allowing compliance and control.
  12. Gary in NJ

    Replacement options rear shock

    Why would you want to use variable-rate springs? Multi rate springs are usually used when the damping curve can not be properly tuned. The valve used in our forks can be customized to your needs fairly easily. I would install a straight-rate spring for your body weight.
  13. Gary in NJ

    Gas in oil...changed oil and cleaned carb...

    Change your petcock to a Raptor unit to avoid it happening again. The fuel in the oil didn’t do any damage, in fact it helped clean the engine.
  14. Gary in NJ

    400E slow loss of power - any ideas?

    Not enough info...you're gonna have to do some preliminary investigation and let us know what you find. Really, it could be anything.
  15. Gary in NJ

    Yike's, cracked piston, now quiet engine

    Not disagreeing...just giving some background. I built an aircraft many years ago. In this process I removed the magnetos from the engine and replaced them with an electronic ignition. The "mags" provide two stages of fixed timing; @TDC for starting (below 500 rpm) and 25 BTDC for all operations. I replaced the mags with an ECU that allowed me to adjust timing based on rpm, manifold pressure and altitude. The manufacturer of the kit suggested I set the max advance at 42 degrees @ 2,700 rpm and 25 in. mg. During test flight of the electronic ignition I experienced detonation at high rpm/high MP. It was something that scared the crap out of me. It felt like some one threw a lawn chair through the prop. I backed the advance to 40 BTDC and it continued to happen a few times, so the timing was further reduced to 38 BTDC. Problem solved. Detonation (not pre ignition or pinging) is violent. Even though it was a single power stroke on a 4 cylinder engine, it shook the entire airframe and it felt like I was punched in the chest. Most people talk about detonation but are really describing pre ignition. Detonation is something that breaks stuff and isn't confused with anything else - once experienced (especially at 8,000').