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About Fourstrokenewb

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  1. +1 on the motor mounts. My kid bought a riding lawnmower with loose motor mounts. Sounded like a mule kicking a tin walled shed. I' sure a 38 hp fourstroke would make some racket. Tightened them up and it sounded good. If you do get a MCCT, be careful.
  2. I came to the party late. If you have not bought yet see if owner will pull ignition cover - gas and oil pours out = bad try to wiggle crank - up and down; knock knock = bad start it . . . see if it cleans out lots of smoke could be too rich . . . . . or it could be a leaky trans side main seal look it over - real good hardware store parts = bad - I am a stickler. I would never go to lowes to buy bolts for my bike . . . Leaky forks / shocks . . . bad Look at little stuff too - spokes? are they loose / seized How about the air valves on the tires - have caps?, filled with dirt? - if so owner is a bone head. He did not care enough for that, who knows what else he did not care for? In richmond market 2008 450F's are on craigs list for 3500. found a 2001 YZ250 2 stroke, 1700 . . . needed work, found a 450F 2008 - 2200 . . . Don't fall in love with the bike at this price. If you can wrench pretty good, figure out what you want to take on. Loose main bearings may not be too hard to fix, but the less you have to do the better. All that being said, buying a two stroke is a lot more idiot proof that buying a four stroke. I ride a four now, but I cannot say I will not go back to a two stroke.
  3. Yep, that is where I was going with it. In the Hot Rods kit, the disk is bound to the rubber part . . . . . . . . in my motor, not so much . . . . the ceramic disk and the rubber part are two pieces. So just to make sure I copy right, the guidance for the RTV fix is that I literally vulcanize the rubber side of the ceramic disk to the impeller? Think it makes sense just to preempt "whatever might happen" and just RTV the Hot Rods part in place from the git go?? Looks like I am learning lots about four strokes . . . I never had anything like this happen on any of my race bikes. (All were 2 stroke) I just hope I did not damage anything else trying t find the sweet spot on my cam chain adjustment . . . . . Thanks for helping me work through this. PC
  4. So I took the pump apart. The things that struck me 1. the white ceramic part had a sort of worn (stained black area) where it had been in contact with the black (sprung side) of the mechanical seal. 2. the white ceramic seal came easily out of the rubber pocket, which was kind of stuck to the back of the impeller. And the rubber pocket fit loosely. 3. looking at a Hot Rods repair kit that I had laying around, I would not swear to it, but the ceramic disk looked thicker (anecdotally I need to take a caliper to it) 4. once again, anecdotally, the spring on the Hot Rods kit seemed to be stronger or maybe longer. Looking at this thing, the way the mechanical seal works, it relies heavily on spring tension, if the spring was too short, fatigued or the ceramic disk was worn down for an reason, it would leak. On point number 1, this thing had not leaked at all, until I overheated it, idling trying to find the sweet spot on a new MCCT that I installed. It puked some coolant out (actually blew the coolant recovery tank out bc the vent was clogged, but that is another story. Perhaps the overheating episode screwed up the rubber ceramic disk holder?? (point 2) I WISH i could get the pump apart without laying wast to everything in the process, I would put in the HotRods seal.
  5. Thanks for your responses . . . . . I will a take it apart and see what I find.
  6. Ok, be advised I have searched and found lots of info about RTV fixes and all . . . . . . . I am trying to figure out if my situation is unique . . My 2001 DRZ400 started leaking about three rides after I bought it. "So it is a 2001 after all", I thought, "I will put a new waterpump in it". I pulled the old one and there were grooves on the shaft. Sure looked work out to me. I coughed up 120 bucks for a new OEM pump and installed. The leak went away. This was April. Fast forward to October, the stupid leak is back. Seemingly worse than it was before. Facts Several rides : One on a motocross track . . . . Yes a motocross track, it handled pretty well. Overheated once - Trying to find sweet spot adjusting the newly purchased MCCT. Ironically the coolant tank blew up . . . because the vent hose outlet was clogged. Now I have a new coolant tank. Antifreeze - PEAK (50/50 mix) - The bottle said it was good for all cars and motorcycles - I was looking for phosphate fee and silicate free. Bottle said nothing about it. But from what I read, phosphates and silicates are a thing of the past. Questions Is this typical behaviour of these water pumps? Are they really so poorly designed that they HAVE to be RTVed? Think the overheating could have been a factor? When I was an MX racer, I always ran Prestone . . . . never had a leak at all. Never replaced a waterpump. In fact never used distilled water. What is so unique about this? Is it just that the four strokes run so much hotter?? Actions I am going to pull it apart (again) this afternoon possibly and take a look. If I find anything interesting I will post pics. Any thoughts? Thanks
  7. So I went out to my shed today and there was a puddle o the floor . Coolant . . . . four rides on this new waterpump. So now I guess I'm going in . . . . . Rotella to the Recyling center or not. . . . Does this sound consistent with a pump needing the RTV fix . . . .? This bike is getting me ticked,
  8. I just made a comment and never answered the question. Plus 1 for the Harbor Freight "Motocross Motorcycle" stand. 20 bucks.
  9. Old Schmold - these things are just flat HEAVY
  10. On the coolant angle . . . . . I replaced my warterpump in the spring of this year because it was leaking (out of the weep hole) . . . . I rode it about four times, the last time pretty hard on an MX track . . . . . Now it is leaking again. I had been running Peak antifreeze. (50/50) . . . . . says on the bottle that it is good for cars and motorcycles . . . . . . it says nothing about silicates, and I read that they never put that stuff in antifreeze any more. I have also read about the "RTV" fix. I have had Yamaha's with water cooling and I never had to do anything like this. The only other thing I need to mention, it did overheat once while I was fumbling around trying to get my new MCCT installed. It puked about a cup or so of water out. Think that might have done it? I really don't want to send two quarts of semi fresh Rotella to the recycling center . . . . I cannot believe that Suzuki can't get this right . . . . after all water cooling has been around since what 1986?????
  11. Yeah, looking back at what I originally posted, I could see how you would think that I misunderstood. What i did not say, was that I did find TDC, with the cams at 10 and 2 o clock, and I removed the ACCT then. . As you said also, if you really know what you are doing, you can listen to the engine as you rotate it. You can hear the intake impulse at the carb. Next TDC is with both valve closed, although there is a compression release. Being that this is a 2001, I wanted to check my valve clearances, so I wanted to remove the valve cover anyway. They were in spec. My confusion was the tension adjustment procedure . . . . . you can see from my original post what my issue was. I am a 2 stroke guy from way back. Thanks
  12. That is good info . . . it sounds like it is better to run them a bit loose rather than too tight. Interesting . . . I saw another guy talking about how easy it is to screw up with MCCT. Thanks
  13. I just put a Thumpertalk MCCT on my 2001 E model. i took the valve cover off to install. The instructions said nothing of this. The adjustment procedure that came with it was roughly, "tighten the tensioner finger tight, rotate the engine, til it is loose again. Do finger tight to take up the slack. (they said not to force and I did not.) Then back it off 1/4 turn" . . . So the engine was quiet . . . but looking at what everyone else was saying, I had a nagging suspicion that it may have been too tight. So I tried the "rocks in coffee can method". The thing that gets me is the noise kind of changes. There is a rocks in coffee can sound, then there is just kind of a knocking as I adjust. Finally I make the knocking go away. As it turns out, I backed off from what the instructions said . . . by almost 3/4 of a turn. Did you encounter the coffee can to knocking transition in the adjustment? How did you come to peace that you had done the right thing? Is there any harm in running it a little loose? Two stroke are so much easier!!
  14. I go by the book torqueing anything on bikes. What a shame that this happened to his new bike. I am bummed for this guy. . . Honestly, if that were my bike I might just replace with new case . . . . . it will be apart . . . . . . . . why risk possibly having it messed up further if the welder is having a bad day? . . then it breaking or leaking and splitting cases again. . . . but that is just me.
  15. Actually, your response brings up a question I have been wondering about . . . . I bought a 2001 DRZ in January and have been in the crank case on a couple of occasions. The drain plug that I have has a washer . . . . I THINK it may be a crush washer. My guess is that the PO probably never changed this out, based on other stuff that I have found (eg. no O ring on oil filter) Has anybody had luck just using a regular washer? Like maybe one made of Aluminum?