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About Fourstrokenewb

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  1. I go by the book torqueing anything on bikes. What a shame that this happened to his new bike. I am bummed for this guy. . . Honestly, if that were my bike I might just replace with new case . . . . . it will be apart . . . . . . . . why risk possibly having it messed up further if the welder is having a bad day? . . then it breaking or leaking and splitting cases again. . . . but that is just me.
  2. Actually, your response brings up a question I have been wondering about . . . . I bought a 2001 DRZ in January and have been in the crank case on a couple of occasions. The drain plug that I have has a washer . . . . I THINK it may be a crush washer. My guess is that the PO probably never changed this out, based on other stuff that I have found (eg. no O ring on oil filter) Has anybody had luck just using a regular washer? Like maybe one made of Aluminum?
  3. Well . . . . . . went out riding my project bike yesterday with the kid on his KE100. The latest work done held up pretty well. Waterpump = check Carb rebuild = check . . . . . sort of . . . . Which brings me to the next issue, the dreaded bog . . . I think that this did not confront me too much, at first, because I was not grabbing a handful of throttle and expecting something to happen. But yesterday I did . . . . . and in a big sandy berm . . . . . bwa . . . . pa -pa- pa . . . . . . . . . . and I was quickly deposited in the sand . . . . Unfortunately, this partially broke my clutch perch, and boogered that little switch that makes you pull in the clutch before you start it. This had me scared for a bit, as I was not relishing pushing this ox back to the truck. I jiggled it however and the engine lit. I have decided that I do not need a nanny where this is concerned and I have dispatched the little feature. No more nanny . . . she has been zip tied and is living safely behind my "number plate". So I am thinking about the bog . . . the obvious workaround when you need a fistful of power is to fan the clutch . . . . but it seems that the bog should be tuned out. - I am at stock jetting now - the "All Balls" carb kit did not include and AP diaphram - I have heard that the 142 main jet is lean, and I am wondering if a 150 or 155 would help. - have also seen stuff about the "o ring - taffy - eddie mod" - have also seen stuff about guys using the boyesen quickshot . . . . . and they say this an AP diaphram from YZ400 carb helps So I need to parse out what makes sense for my bike . . . . . . . This carb was a devil to work on and I do not relish removing again so I am going to spend a little time "researching" and "planning" my next move . . . . . . . which might mean fanning the clutch when i want explosive power for a while. For anyone who may stumble across this saga . . . who has removed the airbox snorkle . . . . . have you noticed a great increase in water incursion into your airbox? All said and done though . . . . . great riding day with the teenager.
  4. On a new 2017?? Nah . . . . go riding . . . I would doubt that they have the problem. Remember, my bike is 16 years old. What really got me started on this was there were some posts about the countershaft sprocket coming loose. I walked out to my shed and danged if mine wasn't. So I fixed that. I started looking further in the posts and I found that - the bolts that hold the coil to the cover on the left side of the engine reportedly came loose - the primary drive and the counterbalancer nuts were reportedly coming loose . . . . . primarily on early models. So off with the ignition cover and right crankcase cover . . . . . . Turns out nothing was loose but I gave them the treatment anyways. But that is when I found out about the clutch . . . . If you decide to do these fixes you will need to acquire an offset wrench to hold the flywheel while torquing the primary gear and counter balancer nuts. The one I bought was 26 and 24 mm box end which I got from Pegasus Auto racing. But again, I would not worry about it too much.
  5. Well since I started this thread, I figured i would document what I have done to this bike and what I have encountered in a 16 year old bike. First, a bit about the bike, DRZ400e 2001. I raced and owned two strokes in the past. So a high performance 4 stroke was new to me. The bike was showing its age when I bought it. I got a fairly good deal on it . . . . 1350. My plan was to do woods riding with the kid. The engine is pretty quiet. No really ominous noises. But being an old bike and not knowing the PO, I had a healthy case of skepticism. First thing I did was change the oil. Found no O ring between the filter and case. Not much i can do with that. Put a new filter and o ring and buttoned it back up. By the way, WIX makes a filter for this bike and includes both O rings. WIX is a good filter. Noticed a slight bit of water in the frame tank too. Put some fresh oil in it. Put some heavy Aluminum based antisieze in to hold the O ring in on the filter cover and went riding. After my first ride I noticed shimmery stuff in my oil. Won't drag this story out too much but came to realize that the shimmery stuff was actually the antisieze. But this was after a lot of head scratching. I actually went as far as to flush my frame tank, which yielded exactly nothing . . . well Duh . . . and what about the water I mentioned earlier? Was not antifreeze. My guess is condensation. Or maybe it could have been the other thing I noticed. That breather tube on the back of the cylinder . . . mine is loose . . . . . I siliconed it back in. Anyone encountered this?? I opened my engine and did all of the loctite fixes. I noticed that my clutch basket was actually LOOSE from the driven gear. A bid on EBAY for a 2014 clutch assembly dispatched that problem. 80 bucks . . . That clutch really was worn out . . . During my first couple of rides, I noticed that when I had the engine pulling hard and when I backed off the throttle, it would pop and stall. So I got to learning everything I could about the FCR slant carb. Final conclusion. It needed a rebuild. I opened it up and it looked like it had been in the river. What a mess. Rebuild kits for these older carbs are hard to find. I got one from "All Ball Racing". I knew it was not OEM. But I gave it a go. Dunked the carb in Simple Green, blew it out and put my new hardware in. And guess what? No more Pop and stall. But boy is that carb a PITA to get installed. And for anyone wondering is a fuel screw will work on these bikes. Nope . . . . starter is in the way. So after a test ride through my neighborhood, I noticed a drip of antifreeze on the floor of my shed. Leaky water pump. DANG. At first I ordered a rebuild kit, which did not include the impeller. I found that the impeller shaft, once I got into the motor, was galled and grooved. Also found that that mechanical seal is nearly impossible to remove without destroying the pump plate. Said to heck with it and got a pump assembly fro Cost was about 108 dollars. So that is all installed now. Going out again monday with the boy . . .. spring break. Hoping I don't find something else. Thank God I can wrench. I would have been parting with a lot of bread paying for shop time. Next up in no particular order . . . . . new back tire and a valve check . . . So why am I journaling this? I guess it is to give moral support to anyone else who buys an old bike and finds themselves in my shoes. But for the record . . . I really like this bike.
  6. Hey - want to throw a question out here . . . . what is ya'll take on arrangement with the last driven plate on the clutch? All plates, except the last plate, go between the fingers of the clutch basket, but the last plate goes in a machined out notch at the top of the fingers on the basket. I had a downloaded service manual that did not specifically address this, but the Clymer manual did . . . . . . . I don't see that it would make a difference at all.
  7. Yeah, I saw the light . . . . .
  8. That is good . . . . my mechanical seal seemed to be welded to the pump plate. . . . . . If you replaced your shaft, bought a pump plate and got your seals in right there is no earthly reason it should not work.
  9. As noted earlier, I did get an OEM pump assembly. I was wondering though, in your experience, have you found that the seals are lubricated from the factory on these assemblies? My thoughts are that it would be stupid if they were not, but you never know.
  10. I got an assembly for like 108 at here in the US. But to compare the rebuild kit was around 60, then I found that my impeller shaft was grooved and galled. So that was another 30. Plus working on the thing is a PITA.
  11. I just threw in the towel. I had ordered the rebuild kit, but got into the job today, and as I mentioned, the impeller shaft is grooved and galled . . . . . so that is another 30 bucks . . . . between the rebuild kit and the shaft . . . . . I'm basically in for the price of a pump assembly. Thanks
  12. I am having a similar experience with my 2001. I ordered the Hot Rod kit. But this pump does not want to come apart easy! My seall looks jut like yours at his time. How did your job turn out? I pulled my impeller and the shaft looks a bit worse for wear. I am wondering about the wisdom of my move at this point.
  13. Sure . . . . my "New to me DRZ400e (2001)" is giving me ample opportunity to re hone my mechanic skills . . . . . they say life is the journey . . . good luck
  14. Hmmmm - Interesting - I have a bog when I stab the throttle . . . . . . did you do that mod where you wired the AP arm to the throttle linkage too? I think the grinding the diaphram may have been part of that mod . . . .
  15. I almost put my AP back together with the spring on the wrong side too. But what exactly did you grind off??