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yo_eddie

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About yo_eddie

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    Germany

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  1. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    Exactly. Bent the sides up, too. Indeed it took me some hours and several iterations, but was fun, too. I do not have a complete "making of", but here are some pictures of the progress. For welding there are adapters for heatguns available. They allow simultaneously heating the PE at the welding spot and feeding the welding stick. Several iterations of cutting and bending the sheet... Here you can see the welding sticks. After welding, I cut off excessive material. Until now, everything holds up well. Needs some shaping... Pressure and heat help. I I knew I would be riding almost exclusively tracks today, I would have built it not that complicated though...
  2. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    Bought it via eBay. The mounts are two Z shaped pieces of 4mm x 20mm aluminium, covered with pieces from a bike tube. The Zs are fastened with countersunk screws to the plate and the ends grab over the frame strut underneath the motor. In the front I just put a piece 6mm x 20mm with two M8 threads behind the frame and screwed it on.
  3. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    The Moose Racing Skidplate seems to be out of stock everywere... https://www.starcycle.com/skid-plates-armor-c-929_7753_14274/0511-yamaha-yz125-moose-racing-pro-skid-plate-p-2919.html
  4. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    Just had a look, I made mine from 8mm PE. PE is much more durable and tougher than those injection molded plastic skidplates. Actually you don't have to weld, just cut out the shape and bend it into shape. You can also cut out a tail to the plate, so that the linkage is covered, too.
  5. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    First made a template from cardboard, then cut the shape out of the PE sheet. Using a heatgun I bent and squeezed the PE into shape, then welded the gaps, again using the heatgun.
  6. yo_eddie

    Homemade plastic skid plate?

    I built a skidplate last year from 8mm PE. (For a 250, though)
  7. yo_eddie

    My new 2018

    That's a revolutionary lightweight build right now 😜
  8. yo_eddie

    YZ250x suspension help!

    Well, after 40hrs the forks will need new bushings, oil and seals for sure.
  9. yo_eddie

    My new 2018

    Wow ... That will look sick for sure. Will you keep it blue or change the plastics to black / white like your 450? Awesome looking bike, btw 👌🏼 And very interesting to read your impressions 450 / 250, thank you!
  10. yo_eddie

    Rear Shock upper bearing - grease or not?

    Twostrokish, mate 😉
  11. yo_eddie

    Rear Shock upper bearing - grease or not?

    That's right but the upper bearing is a plastic bushing. And indeed some plastic bushings must not be greased, as the grease may macerate the material. This is why I asked... For every other bearing I have used Mos2 grease following the manual and as you said, this makes perfectly sense for the application in bearings that don't see much rpm but high loads.
  12. yo_eddie

    My new 2018

    What's going on there?
  13. yo_eddie

    Rear Shock upper bearing - grease or not?

    Well, if it works for hundreds of hours, this indeed answers my question, thanks! Do you use MOS2 grease as recommended for the needle bearing as well? The lower bearing is a needle bearing, so that has to be greased as stated in the manual. But for the upper bearing there is no hint to apply any lube in the manual...
  14. Not sure if this has been asked before - I wonder if the top bearing (radial spherical plain bearing) should be greased or not. I have just pulled apart the swingarm linkage of my '16 250 and everything is still fine, only this one bearing is dry and there were some fragments which looked like "old grease". Looking up the catalog from SKF there are radial spherical plain bearings available in three versions, of which one must be greased, one must not be greased and one may be greased to prolong lifespan. Does anyone know which kind of bearing Yamaha used for the upper shock bearing?
  15. yo_eddie

    First ride on 250x after powervalve mod

    Did the mod to my WR250LC, which is a Euro street legal YZ250X actually. I found the bike a bit tricky to ride, as it was mellow up to a certain rpm and then ripped my arms off. Coming out of a turn in 3rd it would pick up, but certainly there was some lack of thrust. Shifting from 3rd to 4th required to rev it in 3rd, making it definitely hard to control. I think the power delivery was designed that way to make it easier to find traction on slippery ground, but it is very irritating to have a smooth and soft engine up to a certain rpm, and afterwards it bites seriously in your ar*e. On Friday I did the mod as you guys thankfully have described, and my expectations were up the roof. I wondered if the hit would even be too violent. But I was completely wrong. Though the effect was not spectacular (or I am not sensible enough) I immediately found it easier to ride, as the powerband felt not weird anymore and the actually broader usable powerband made shifting from 3rd to 4th way easier. The engine feels stronger, easier to ride and you don't have to deal with this nasty CRF150 to YZ250 transition anymore. Thank you, TT forum!
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