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Doug Coleman

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About Doug Coleman

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  1. Doug Coleman

    8oz or 10oz flywheel weight for 03 cr250r

    If you like it having a snappy top end in the power band & only want to smooth it out just a little, I would go with the lightest flywheel weight available.
  2. Doug Coleman

    01 cr250, keep or sell?

    (91 CR250 r)
  3. Doug Coleman

    01 cr250, keep or sell?

    I see what's happened now. It's my fault, I got confused between multiple post I was replying to that day & I thought the original poster had a 96 CR but you still should have been able to tell all my stated facts were right other than when I said his bike had the HPP VALVE thinking I was on a different forum talking about a different bike.
  4. Doug Coleman

    01 cr250, keep or sell?

    Sorry that you misread my post but if you go back & read it completely & understand it you'll see that that's exactly what I said except I never said or even implied that I do, did or have ever drilled any holes in any of the pistons for my 01 CR250 r. None of the 2nd generation CR's (00-01) have exhaust bridge's. You do however have to drill holes in the "Wiseco Pistons" or any forged piston when there's a exhaust bridge inside the exhaust port on the jug/cylinder like most of the 1st & 3rd gen CR's with the HPP, RC, ext Power Valve designs. These holes must be drilled (again, only in "forged aluminum" pistons going in a cylinder "with a exhaust bridge") because the stock "cast aluminum piston" & any manufacturers aftermarket "forged aluminum pistons" expand at different rates within the cylinder which will cause the nikasil coating on the cylinder wall to wear off much faster on the exhaust bridge directly (mostly while the bike is warming up). I haven't ever drilled exhaust bridge lubrication holes in any of the pistons for my 01 CR. In that specific post I stated that you would have to drill lubrication holes in a Wiseco or any forged piston in CR's with the older HPP Valve or any with a exhaust bridge. I doesn't say anything about me doing it on my CR. I was simply trying to give a heads up in case it wasn't known to anyone that any CR's with an exhaust bridge would have to have lubrication holes drilled into the center of the front/exhaust port side of the piston to help lube said exhaust bridge. Also, I did not weigh my CR from the start of its most recent rebuild or rather complete overhaul. I based my weight loss according to the advertised specs of the 2001 Honda CR250 r's curb weight (weighed with no trans/gear oil or fuel in it) is 231.5LB's & it now has a curb weight of just over 208 making it roughly 23LB's lighter than stock. With that said, take it for what you will. All of my friend's that ride & I can instantly feel the difference big time just by memory but 2 of my friends also own a 2001 CR250 r & 1 has a 2000 CR250 r (all 3 with a few mods but nothing major) & in a side by side/back to back comparison & you can just so easily feel how much lighter it is.
  5. Doug Coleman

    01 cr250, keep or sell?

    Thanks. I've always liked going OEM myself but like I said I'm the original owner and in the 17 years I've owned the bike I've completely rebuilt the top-end 5 times & the bottom end 3 times & ringed it 10 times (2 sets of rings per piston) & I bored it over to a 265cc once & then to a 285cc but for this last rebuild I went ahead & bought a new OEM jug with a complete top end rebuild kit & a crank to go back to the stock 249cc to regain the higher RPM's provided by the stock bore & for the 2 times I bored it over I used Wiseco pistons & Hot Rod cranks & had no problems with them. They seem to be at high quality. With that said, with your bike having the HPP valve you have to drill 2 to 3 holes in the center of the exhaust port side of your piston to help lube the exhaust bridge in your exhaust port if you buy non OEM Pistons because they're forged aluminum not cast therefore they expand at different rates. That's the only downside which it's not that hard to do. You just have to make sure you do it & the directions are in the box with the piston. Also on my CR125 r & my son's CR85 r, I've used Vertex & Wiseco pistons & Hot Rod & Wiseco cranks & there're still holding up perfectly to this day. You can buy Wrench Rabbit, Wiseco & more rebuild kits for any two stroke for about $500 & they come with everything you need to rebuild the top and bottom end & they are nowadays getting to be highly reliable parts. Not as good as OEM but definitely worth the money and at a high enough quality to run strong in your bike 4 years with proper maintenance. When I was running the 265cc & 285cc big bores with Weisco & Hot Rod parts I was racing & each build lasted me about 4 years before they finally blew up on me & the 265cc blew due to a wreck & the throttle getting stuck in the ground wide open & revving out until she blew. I shaved the 23 lbs off the bike with titanium bolts throughout the entire bike, new lighter seat foam, the hubs & rims, the Boyeson complete clutch kit & just all the aftermarket billet aluminum lighter weight yet stronger/better high performance racing parts & racing bolt on parts. After you replace literally everything with anodized aftermarket racing billet aluminum lightweight parts those few grams & ounces here & there start to add up pretty quickly.
  6. Doug Coleman

    01 cr250, keep or sell?

    Actually the 2010 or even the 2018 or 19 YZ250 are the same as they were in 2007 as far as technology goes. The only difference is they are now called a yz250x and the plastics look more modern which truly it's just the front fender is different. If I we're you, I would keep your CR and give it a facelift/overhaul & build it exactly how you want it to be, look, run & handle. That's exactly what I did & I couldn't be happier. I have made my bike 23 pounds lighter, gave it a lot more power yet it runs 15 degrees cooler, it handles way better (like a newer bike), it looks like a modern bike, & just so much more yet I still have that notorious Honda CR reliability & durability & I can be proud of it for it's my own brainchild. I thought of what all I wanted in & out of it, then created & built it & when you ride a machine that you built & put all the hours & effort into that's exactly what you've always wanted, there's nothing more rewarding or satisfying than that. The complete engine rebuild with all OEM power plant parts, all the other parts and accessories including the powder coating only cost me around $2,000 give or take. Keep the old GOAT & keep her alive. #RideRed
  7. Doug Coleman

    CR250r 1991 will not pull high revs

    Sorry, I didn't mean to resend that....
  8. Doug Coleman

    CR250r 1991 will not pull high revs

    Thanks. #RideRed
  9. Doug Coleman

    CR250r 1991 will not pull high revs

    Do is it running/revving right now? I'm very familiar with the HPP Valve on the older Dr's but I don't completely understand your terminology on what's going on with it or the parts your referring to. Can you send some pictures?
  10. Doug Coleman

    CR250r 1991 will not pull high revs

    Your very welcome. Keep me posted on your progress & let me know if you need a fresh second opinion again. If your interested, here's a few pic's of my 01 CR250 r that I bought brand new & have rebuild 4 times but this last time I went all out & bought & installed everything available to make it as close as possible to a one of a kind Honda Works Bike. #RideRed
  11. Doug Coleman

    CR250r 1991 will not pull high revs

    It sounds like your reed valves could be cracked, chipped or your reed cage is bent ext ext causing them not to completely seal properly at higher RPMs. Look very carefully because a very small imperfection can cause this issue. Also check your coolant level make sure it's not burning coolant & to ensure there's no fuel in your coolant, check your spark plug gap, check your needle clip position, you might want to check the tab on your float inside the carburetor to make sure it's not bent up causing it to not allow your bowl to fill to the proper level for your setting & if none of that helps, you may want to take your jug back off & check the fuel ports in it & your case's. Also, you did put the piston in with the arrow or manufacturers mark towards your exhaust port correct?
  12. Doug Coleman

    Is Spark Arrestor on 2001 CR250 stock muffer/tailpipe?

    I have one with a gnarly pipe I'l sell you.
  13. I grew as a Good 'Ol Boy from south Georgia that had to work for everything I've ever had & lived on my own since I was 16 that used to race motocross after work & on weekends but now as a 30 year old father of 2 & a husband of 12 years to my lovely wife that I started dating when I was 14 & she was 17. I've now grown up & obviously gained & accepted the responsibility of a adult, husband & father, I now just love to trail ride but hit the track occasionally for a few laps, restore, build & collect all kinds of bike's (2 & 4-stroke) dirt, street (crotch rockets, cruisers & supermoto's) plus racing & utility 4-wheeler's but mostly 2-stroke dirt-bike's & the old Honda TRX250r's & Suzuki 250r's for me & my son(#RideRed). If I'm not riding, building, tuning or upgrading "all types of ATV's", I'm building, tuning, upgrading driving & or shooting guns 4x4 lifted trucks & jeeps or hot rods, deer hunting, fishing, jet skies & more all with my family. But of course, I'm mostly at work making the $$$ to be able to take care of my family & give them the good times we have & of course to be able to play hard myself & build/restore my dirt-bike's, ATV's, guns, jeeps, trucks, crouch rocket (CBR1000RR) ext ext.... I wish all of you fellow riders out there riding on anything, street & or dirt, on your choice of machine all the best & I remind all of you to be careful & safe & always where a helmet.

    #RideRed

    #🔫CarryOn

    #LiveLoud

    #StayTrueToYourself

    #KeepMovingForward

  14. Doug Coleman

    2000 CR250R

  15. Doug Coleman

    2000 CR250R

    When its time to buy yourself a pipe, I would recommend the FMF Gnarly header & FMF PowerCore2 or even a FMF spark arrestor (if you plan on riding National Forest) because of the power band/output/delivery you're looking to achieve from your engine as well as the type of riding you/y'all will mostly be doing. Also to help with that power output you're trying to achieve from your engine, I would recommend a 9-11 ounce flywheel weight, vforce 3 reeds & cage plus boring your cylinder to fit Wiseco's 68.5mm forged piston making it a 265cc big bore and then of course rejetting your carb & then bolt on either a PhatHead or VHS cooler temperature running head that comes with your choice of 2 different size combustion Chambers to raise or lower your compression or you can buy all 4 they offer & or have one custom made/sized. Then if you really wanted to go all out, you could also stroke your crank making it a stroker. I believe you can go as far as 4mm giving it up to a 76mm stroke which of course will take away a few RPM's & how fast it can tac out but will for sure give you that very strong bottom to mid-range power "low end torque" your looking for.
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