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Doug Coleman

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About Doug Coleman

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  1. Doug Coleman

    Is Spark Arrestor on 2001 CR250 stock muffer/tailpipe?

    I have one with a gnarly pipe I'l sell you.
  2. I grew as a Good 'Ol Boy from south Georgia that had to work for everything I've ever had & lived on my own since I was 16 that used to race motocross after work & on weekends but now as a 30 year old father of 2 & a husband of 12 years to my lovely wife that I started dating when I was 14 & she was 17. I've now grown up & obviously gained & accepted the responsibility of a adult, husband & father, I now just love to trail ride but hit the track occasionally for a few laps, restore, build & collect all kinds of bike's (2 & 4-stroke) dirt, street (crotch rockets, cruisers & supermoto's) plus racing & utility 4-wheeler's but mostly 2-stroke dirt-bike's & the old Honda TRX250r's & Suzuki 250r's for me & my son(#RideRed). If I'm not riding, building, tuning or upgrading "all types of ATV's", I'm building, tuning, upgrading driving & or shooting guns 4x4 lifted trucks & jeeps or hot rods, deer hunting, fishing, jet skies & more all with my family. But of course, I'm mostly at work making the $$$ to be able to take care of my family & give them the good times we have & of course to be able to play hard myself & build/restore my dirt-bike's, ATV's, guns, jeeps, trucks, crouch rocket (CBR1000RR) ext ext.... I wish all of you fellow riders out there riding on anything, street & or dirt, on your choice of machine all the best & I remind all of you to be careful & safe & always where a helmet.

    #RideRed

    #🔫CarryOn

    #LiveLoud

    #StayTrueToYourself

    #KeepMovingForward

  3. Doug Coleman

    2000 CR250R

  4. Doug Coleman

    2000 CR250R

    When its time to buy yourself a pipe, I would recommend the FMF Gnarly header & FMF PowerCore2 or even a FMF spark arrestor (if you plan on riding National Forest) because of the power band/output/delivery you're looking to achieve from your engine as well as the type of riding you/y'all will mostly be doing. Also to help with that power output you're trying to achieve from your engine, I would recommend a 9-11 ounce flywheel weight, vforce 3 reeds & cage plus boring your cylinder to fit Wiseco's 68.5mm forged piston making it a 265cc big bore and then of course rejetting your carb & then bolt on either a PhatHead or VHS cooler temperature running head that comes with your choice of 2 different size combustion Chambers to raise or lower your compression or you can buy all 4 they offer & or have one custom made/sized. Then if you really wanted to go all out, you could also stroke your crank making it a stroker. I believe you can go as far as 4mm giving it up to a 76mm stroke which of course will take away a few RPM's & how fast it can tac out but will for sure give you that very strong bottom to mid-range power "low end torque" your looking for.
  5. Doug Coleman

    Will any piston perform better with holes drilled in them

    "Do it" only if your year/make/model has a exhaust bridge. You can have the same piston fit/run/perform ex in different years/makes/models & one may have the exhaust bridge & others don't. Also the location of the bridge(s) from model to model isn't always going to be the same either. This is why they (Wiseco) dosen't pre-drill the holes from the factory. The directions that come with the Wiseco pistons tell you all you need to know about how to & if you need to.... Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  6. Doug Coleman

    01 Honda cr250r build

    Thanks Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app Thanks Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  7. Doug Coleman

    need advice on which rebuild kit to get

    For who it may concern or who would simply be interested to know if they don't already. It's now a 71mm 285cc. The race shop that I hired to bore the cylinder to the 71mm piston shipped with it as well as re-coat/nickel seal, shave .020mm off my cylinder head to increase compression & set my squish pan for the leaded & oxygenated 114 octane fuel I run & my performance output preferences & shave my power valve down even further did tell me that the angle/degree of my piston stroke would have to be altered slightly to avoid breaching into or at the least having to little material between sections of the cylinder wall & coolant ports mostly on the front side of the cylinder. I myself then had to port out & polish all direct injection ports, coolant ports, exhaust port, carburetor inlet & outlet ports & just port out the intake manifold/rubber boot connecting the carb to the reed cage, the reed cage inner port to again flush fit with the intake boots inner diameter, re-jet & retune the carb, slightly in large the 2 air box holes in the side #plates & the 1 at the bottom in front of the mud flap on the air box itself. Then drill 2-2.8mm & 1-3.0mm oiler holes in the piston center of the piston skirt which is obviously center of the exhaust port just below the lower compression ring & just above the bottom of the exhaust port when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke. This slightly changing the exhaust port timing by letting a very small amount of fresh intake air to pass through into the expansion chamber. The oil that passes through coats the exhaust port & power valve after each ignition/combustion cycle. The oil then gets forced by the slightly delayed returning pressurised exhaust gasses (port timing) to the edges of the exhaust port which then gets forced between the piston & cylinder wall under the lower ring therefore oiling both sides of the front skirt where the stock oiler holes can no longer oil this area & the power valve properly for they are now slightly further away from this area as well as the extra pressures from the big bore prevent enough oil from reaching this area as they are now mostly oiling the added surface area of the oversized piston. This prevents those wear marks alot of people get on the front of their piston on both sides just past the edge of the exhaust port between the direct injections final port holes where the stock oiler holes are. In short, they adjust your exhaust port timing & help oil the power valve & the cylinder surrounding it. If you were to run it without them, it would cause your piston, cylinder & power valve to undergo major excessive damage because, ( I'll it say again) the stock oilers are now mostly used on the larger surface area of the piston causing those 2 little 3/8" area's & the power valve itself to run dry or at least very lean on oil. It would also loose power & run like shit from acsessive carbon build up & lack of oxygen caused by the exhaust port timing being off therefore your exhaust port/power valve will let exhaust gasses back into the combustion chamber because it won't close in time. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  8. Doug Coleman

    need advice on which rebuild kit to get

    I originally bored it in 2006 to a 265cc. At that time I used the original OEM crank & a Wiseco 68.5mm piston & it ran/performed perfect for years. Then I bailed off in mid air over a 90' triple on the pro track at Durhamtown Plantation in Ga to avoid landing on a kid on a rm125r that had stopped on the damn track & when the bike came to rest it landed on & pinned the throttle while I was on the ground with a broken left collarbone, left ankle, right big toe, jammed fingers & 2 sprained wrists. Needless to say, I couldn't get up much less pick up my bike & the kid that caused it took off so I had to lay up against the tough blocks & listen to my bike stuck wide open until it locked up. After recovering from that, thats when I installed the Wiseco crank with again, a Wiseco piston. My point being, the engine modifications themselves where not the issue. It was simply the Wiseco crank was defective. They admitted to me it was. The parts I'm running in it now I know will last & the modifications are spot on & of high quality. So to answer you question, thats the motor that I did do big bores in. I didn't try to bore any motor. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  9. Doug Coleman

    need advice on which rebuild kit to get

    I did. That's how I found out about the 2008-2011 quality control issue. Unfortunately, I had bought the crank as a spare back in 2009 but didn't install it tell the end of 2016. It failed in January of this year but was as seen in pic with a Hot Rod crank & back running strong by February so I wasn't expecting/wanting/needing much in the way of free replacement anyways. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  10. Doug Coleman

    need advice on which rebuild kit to get

    Yep, it was totally bull#!$@ that it did that. Its why I will not use Wiseco's cranks anymore. Even though I've heard that they've fixed the quality control issue. There pistons are great though. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  11. Doug Coleman

    need advice on which rebuild kit to get

    This is pics of a Wiseco 265cc 68.5mm complete engine rebuild kit after only 23 hours. You can tell by the piston wear that it was at very low hour's when the crank failed by the "tin-can" (as Wiseco called it) completely separating a 3" piece of itself above the left sides rod bearing. That should never be able to happen period on any crank. There are many other things that will end a cranks life before this could ever wear out enough to allow this to occur. I have went back to using Hot Rod or Wrench Rabbits cranks if not going back with a oem. It is now a 285cc/71mm bore with a Hot Rod crank & running very strong. I wouldn't ever use Wiseco's cranks again but there pistons are great. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  12. Doug Coleman

    Best online place for oem parts

    They changed in 2011 I believe. I know that they finally started realizing they were shit then. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  13. Doug Coleman

    What pipe and silencer should I buy for my 2005 CR250?

    2001 Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  14. Doug Coleman

    What pipe and silencer should I buy for my 2005 CR250?

    FMF Headers The FMF Gnarly pipe is going to give you more bottom end power with a touch more mid range power but take power away from the top & give you a deeper throatyer sound. The FMF Fatty is going to increase the whole power range (power band) of your bike & give you a higher pitched sound while picking up on the rpm's faster. The FMF SSR pipe will give you a lot of top end power (more rpm's) but take a lot away from the rest of the power band. FMF Silencers The FMF powercore2 is going to give you more all around useable power without spooging all over your #plate/plastics. The FMF shorty is going to give you more power throughout the power band as well with a little extra at the top but is very short so it spooges (spits carbon & oil) all over the inside of your plastics & on your swing arm. The FMF spark arrester is going to just allow your bike to be National Forrest Approved & gives the bike very little all around power if combined with the Gnarly. The turbinecore increases the bottom to mid range power. Pro-Circuit Headers Pro-Circuit only offers 2 different headers that perform the same just look different for the 2 stroke. The platinum is a chromed pipe thats equivalent to FMF's fatty & the works pipe is a factory works look that performs the same. Pro-Circuit Silencers There's only 2 silencers as well. The 304 & r-304 that are the equivalent to FMF's powercore2 & shorty. For your said riding preferenceses, I would recommend the FMF fatty with the powercore2 silencer. It's the best all around riding style setup you can have for a 2-stroke & therefore is the most popular for this reason. It's about $280 for the header (the fatty) & $100 for the muffler (the silencer). I also mostly ride trails these days & ride a track from time to time just to stay sharp. I recommend you change your jetting & install a set of V-FORCE3 or Boyeson reeds & reed cage with whatever combination you choose. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
  15. Doug Coleman

    Cr250 big bore

    Its exactly a 68.5mm 265cc piston that Wiseco offers for the cr250 r. It is a easy to find & very common piston. I ran that size bore with said Wiseco pistons for about 4 years & it performed very well. I recently went to the 71mm about 6 months ago & it has plenty of power as well as the performance & wear & tear have so far been as to be expected. Sent from my SM-G360P using ThumperTalk mobile app
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