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RageD

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About RageD

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    Illinois

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  1. RageD

    Where to race near Phoenix?

    Even that sounds pretty good to me! I already travel ~2 hours once or twice a week to ride during off-season (since that's the nearest indoor track). Not too shabby! -RageD
  2. RageD

    Where to race near Phoenix?

    Thanks for the help guys! Sorry for the delayed response: getting ready for the move so a bit busy right now. Anyway, sounds like race season is just ending (while just beginning over here bummer) but will pick back up in the fall/winter. Does anyone have any idea what the hours of these tracks are? Do they close over the summer due to heat or do they shift their schedule earlier (or later for those with lights)? Thanks! -RageD
  3. I'll be relocating to the Phoenix area pretty soon here (probably somewhere around the Glendale area). I've searched around and have found a couple of tracks in the area (ACP, Canyon, ET, MC Motorsports in Tuscon, etc.); I imagine I'll check all of those tracks out and figure out a "main" one where I will probably run practice most often. However, where does everyone race around here? I haven't seen much in way of race schedules (maybe it's a time of year thing?). Also, pretty much every race around me now is AMA sanctioned; is that less common out in AZ (though I did see a LLAQ scheduled back in Feb)? I didn't search very hard, but I couldn't find an AMA district for motocross in AZ. To be clear, I'm a C rider/working professional (maybe will someday make the jump to B). I race for fun though I will make an honest effort to win of course. As a result I'm looking for race series that have good competition and turnout, but I'm not looking at a future as a pro racer so I don't necessarily need to be entering strictly AMA events (it's just the format that I'm already familiar with). Thanks! -RageD
  4. As GasMixer44 mentioned, letting the bike idle too long is bound to make this happen. Similarly, if you putt around the trails or track too slowly, you'll see this start to spill out (this has happened to me a couple of times). Getting on the gas to get the air moving should really help. In general, if it's only leaking while it's on I would most likely suspect something is making your engine run too hot and you're just not getting enough air to cool it off. Fwiw, I notice on my 2t that I can let the thing idle and have almost no heating issues; I never had coolant overflow on it. On my 4t though, I never let it sit more than a minute before getting a move on. If on the trail and we stop, the bike gets shut off until we're ready to move again. Also, even with a little bit of overflow, I wouldn't expect it to cause a problem. If you have to add coolant every 3-4 riding hours, then something is most definitely up.
  5. RageD

    When to Check Valves Again?

    Awesome thanks. I've got a hotcams shim kit on its way now, so I'll probably get to reshimming in the middle of the week. Of course when I bought the thing I didn't think of checking the valve clearances to get a baseline so I'm not sure whether the valves are wearing yet or if that is just where the clearances have been. Either way, I'll pull the head cover off again at around 25 hours and measure after the reshim. While we're on the topic, when replacing valves what should I replace? I usually buy my own parts and bring them to the shop. Should I replace the springs, buckets, retainer, seals, etc. or basically just the valves themselves when needed? I usually do all of my own work (been a 2 stroke guy in the past) except for cylinder replating which I would send out in the past. Point being, I don't really have a shop in the area I trust yet so I'm always weary about going to someone without the parts in hand. Anyway, if it's usually hard to say without seeing I guess I'll have to just trust someone at some point xD I mean hey, I'm trusting some guys on the internet (but at least I can go look at your old posts and see a track record of sound advice). Boy it's tough to establish that relationship But TT hasn't steered me wrong yet! Anyway, the 4t is fun I must admit. I'm excited to have the chance to do some more work on it too! Thanks again guys!
  6. RageD

    When to Check Valves Again?

    Actually I've been thinking about this-- does this imply that the wear tends to be quick from the moment you start to reshim? I.e. Your valves are either good and they hardly ever need to be reshimmed or you reshim more and more frequently until the valve needs to be replaced? Also, in that case, when you replace a valve do the seats also need to be recut to match that specific valve? Thanks!
  7. RageD

    When to Check Valves Again?

    Great thanks for the advice guys. I usually only ride track, but I'm a mediocre C rider at best (I don't currently race-- so hard to say exactly), so I never bounce of the rev limiter or anything like that. I was planning to go out tomorrow for maybe an hour or two of practice; I may give it a whirl since it's still in spec but order a shim kit to get all the valves closer to spec ASAP. Thanks for the info!
  8. RageD

    When to Check Valves Again?

    So my 2017 KX250f is my first 4-stroke and I just hit my first 15-hour mark (yay!). That said, I am paranoid about its maintenance. I have an hour meter and have been keeping a detailed log about when I clean air filter, change oil, etc. Any maintenance at all. Anyway, I have the manual of course. I measured the valve clearances and came up with these numbers: Intake Left: 0.13mm Intake Right: 0.13mm Exhaust Left: 0.17mm Exhaust Right: 0.18mm The intake valves appear to be comfortably within tolerance (intake tolerance 0.10mm~0.15mm), but the exhaust valves are on the tight side of the spec (0.17mm~0.22mm). This brings me to my question: when should I pull off the head cover again and re-measure the clearances? Since my exhaust side seems to be on the tight-end (even though still in spec) should I still go another 15 hours (like the manual says)? Or check again in 2, 5? Shim them now? Thanks for the help! -RageD P.S. I'm usually one for just "trusting the manual" (and I do) but I'm wondering if your valves are nearing out-of-spec if you shouldn't just blindly follow the maintenance interval. I'm not sure whether or not the engineers have put 0.17mm as a lower limit for any riding or the lower limit for riding another 15 hours?
  9. RageD

    07 yz250 fouling plugs again

    Assuming your throttle body and throttle cable isn't sticking, hanging would likely be due to either bad jetting or air leak I suspect. If the problem was actually through the proper intake (i.e. assuming no leaks) then I would bet it would begin to get better as the air filter gets dirty and lets less air through (even if the bike starts to run worse overall, this would probably get better). In any case, it would be worth cleaning the filter perhaps if you can see dirt on it; I usually only clean the filter once before totally replacing it though and oil it before every ride to ensure it's functioning properly. There are plenty of places on the forum already suggesting how to detect an air leak. High level overview: you want to get something that would burn in the engine around areas that should be sealed (i.e. air box, cylinder, engine cases, etc.) and listen to the engine. If the engine revs up when getting near these areas then it's somehow being pulled into the engine (ala leaking). If not, you're probably pretty safe from leaks. The lower hanging fruit is to reset your float height and check your jetting is right if this hasn't been done in a while (or ever). Remember that jetting isn't exactly set and forget; as your elevation, temperature, humidity, etc. changes you'll likely have to readjust.
  10. RageD

    Green oil on crankshaft

    ^ this. Definitely looks like coolant to me. If seals aren't bad, flushing the cases should hopefully do it. otherwise you might have to split the bottom end, clean things up, and replace the seals. If you go the longer route, you may as well do a full job while you're in there if it's been a while since it's been done. Good luck!
  11. RageD

    KTM team tactics,liked Decoster til now!

    This is the biggest thing I noticed. Dungey & Musquin aside (though I admit, the way he popped out of the rut seemed a bit odd), Tomac seemed entirely dejected after stuffing his front end. He started off strong looking like the ET3 we've seen the last couple of weeks but then after the small mistake he was out of it. I'm not sure if something happened, but if you watch it again he was pretty slow to get back on the bike so maybe he caused some pain on that get off? I don't know why, but for the rest of the race he was just out of it. It took him forever to get by Stewart and he just wasn't pushing like we've seen; he honestly looked "slow" and I wonder if taking it easy like he did led him to casing that jump later in the main. From a fan perspective, I must admit the points are a bit disappointing coming into LV. I was expecting to see RD5, MM25, ET3 for the top 3 finishers (probably like everyone else) which would've probably made for a much closer point gap and a more exciting "do or die" situation. Even without the Musquin pass at the end, 6 points would still have been a lot. But meh, this is just noise I'm a guy who would be lucky to keep up with the faster C riders, so there's that... xD
  12. RageD

    How to bleed rear brakes?

    I recently had the worst experience doing this on my YZ250. I would first try to reverse bleed as someone suggested (especially if line is dry). After a couple of pumps, the brakes should stiffen right away. If that doesn't work, the vacuum bleeders are cheap (around $40) and those work well too but the reverse bleed is quicker and usually can do the job. If you've pumped more than a bottle through, I would stop and reassess. I pumped a couple of bottles through only to realize one of my seals on my newly rebuilt MC was nicked! I was able to build some pressure, but not full pressure to be enough for actually braking. Those seals need to be in perfect condition otherwise they'll let fluid leak internally and won't create proper pressure. Also, you should obviously double check that they're installed in the correct direction. Hope this helps. Good luck!
  13. RageD

    Changing Fork Oil

    Yeah mine are a bit different on this bike-- those look much similar to the ones on my yz. I haven't had much of a problem with those in the past but these are a bit less friendly
  14. RageD

    Changing Fork Oil

    How did you get to the inner cartridge without disassembling the fork? That may work on the right fork, but I certainly can't get to that inner cartridge without disassembly. Lacking a proper bench vise (and assuming my landlord wouldn't like me drilling into his counter tops...), I may be forced to head to the shop anyway Any last minute tips you guys may have to remove the bottom of the Showa SFF without a vise? Going to call the shop in the morning.. Sad, I actually wanted to do this
  15. RageD

    Changing Fork Oil

    Started doing this today. Took me about 10 minutes to pull the forks off the bike and drain the oil from the outer tube. I had to leave for work, but was thinking: I only have a clamp-based vise. We'll see how it goes but I'm not sure it's going to hold for me to open up the assembly at the bottom to get at this piston rod [emoji20] since it's tightened down to around 58 or 59 ft-lb. We'll see. So far, though, the process is straight forward. Assuming no more complications after opening up, I bet it will only be another 20-30 minutes of actual labor on the dampening fork (not including a 20 minute drain). I cannot yet say anything for the spring fork of course, but if it's similar in labor, it would probably be less than an hour per fork (and I've never done any forks newer than '99 before so these are different [emoji4] ). Hope that helps!
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