Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About confederateJACK

  • Rank
    TT Member

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. confederateJACK

    alright guys lets see ur dr's! put up some pics!

    i'd love to have one of those seats for my ass, that looks very comfortable right there... like a match made in heaven between that seat and my ass!. Where'd you get that seat anyway? I like everything about this bike, just lookin at it makes me feel like I need to step up my game.
  2. confederateJACK

    alright guys lets see ur dr's! put up some pics!

    I made some 350cc decals out of that vinyl car wrap decal stuff and a few ad clippings from a bike mag covered in clear packaging tape. The vinyl is good quality decal flim, it's easy to work with and needs no adhesive. Those .smaller stickers are mostly all images I've cut out of bike and hot rod mags, they stick good with clear packaging tape but the ones on the tank have to be taken off after a couple months, re-trimmed and taped back on, or replaced with new ones because of the fumes evaporating through the plastic gas tank taints the glue on the back of the packaging tape as most of you already know.
  3. confederateJACK

    1996 Dr350

    Suzuki dealership told me 36-58 ft-lbs of torque for the front axle itself, from what I've searched online that seems to pretty much be the standard torque value recommended for front axle on 1990's DR models (SE dual sport version or very early 90's models may be different i'm not sure) all the info I search for is typically based on the mid to late 90's DR Dirt or trail model's like the T, S or X models. I used 48-50 lbs on mine and marked a dot on it with paint pen. It has not backed out at all after approx. 40miles of road and trail riding, and performs as it should with no issues. I know sometimes the SE electric start 'dual sport' models have different tech-specs than the off road and trail models, but everything I've found online (as well as Suzuki service dept.) says 36-58 foot pounds of torque for the front axle itself (for my '96 dr350-T, and like models). I had the block and (4) 'pitch' bolts mounted and only just barely 'wrench snug' before torque of axle, just so the forks and axle would fall into correct position, and the axle threads would be lined up with the threaded mate side fork correctly, then I backed off on (4) pitch bolts a turn or two so axle could turn easily and then I torqued my axle to spec. Final torque of the (4) pitch bolts last. (just included some details for anyone who may run across this later at some point and benefit from the info)
  4. confederateJACK

    1996 Dr350

    Yeah I used the recommended torque for the axle and used blue Loctite on the pitch nuts (with about 7-8 lbs of torque) also marked the nuts with a dot of paint marker to make it easy to notice if they happen to back out a little over time. Seem to be doing fine so far, with about 30miles on my new tire. Thanks for taking the time to reply, it is appreciated.
  5. confederateJACK

    1996 DR350T front axle torque specs?

    Thanks, appreciate the information.
  6. confederateJACK

    1994-1996 DR 350

    Any idea what the front axle torque is supposed to be on a 1996 DR350-T (trail model, kick start only) Front axle torque, and axle block (4 little nuts). I can't find the info anywhere except for a SE model of different year and not sure if there the same torque spec numbers as for my bike or not.
  7. confederateJACK

    1996 Dr350

    I also have a 1996 DR350, (350-T) the trail (off road) model with kick start only. i'm having trouble finding the correct torque for the front axle, and the axle 'block' with the 4 little nuts that holds the RH side of the axle on. Any idea what the torque is supposed to be for the front axle? ( and the 4 little axle block nuts) ? Thanks!
  8. confederateJACK

    Engine Mount Torque Specs

    I have a 1996 DR350 T, it's the off road trail model with kick start only. and i'm having trouble finding the correct torque for the front axle and axle block (that block with the 4-nuts that holds the RH side of the axle on), any idea what the torque is supposed to be for the front axle on my bike (or your bike), it's pretty close to my model and same year. I found the torque for a 94 350SE and it says 36-58 for the axle, but didn't list anything for the axle block (or axle 'lock') Just curious if you have any info about that, or if anyone else does. Thanks.
  9. confederateJACK

    1996 DR350T front axle torque specs?

    I found the torque spec's for a 1994 Suzuki DR350SE according to "fandom" it is 36-58ft-lbs for the front axle and 21-29 for "front axle cap". Reckon it would be the same on my '96 DR350T off road model?
  10. confederateJACK

    1996 DR350T front axle torque specs?

    Anyone know what the correct Torque is on the Front Axle, and the axle block (4 nuts)? i'm having trouble finding the information, I have a 1996 DR350T (off road-trail model) kick start only.
  11. confederateJACK

    Dr350-T spark plug?

    Thanks. that's helpful, i'll write that down.
  12. confederateJACK

    Dr350-T spark plug?

    I decoded the frame VIN and it says it's a '96 DR350T made in Japan. I wonder if the motor may have been taken out of a different model and put on this bike. Best I can recall it's the first DR I've had that takes the fine thread CR9EK plug. My other DR's were all T models according to there VIN decoder checks, all were almost identical to this bike and had kick start only, headlight and tail light. This bike has front susp adjustments on the bottom of the fork's only, and it has compression 'and' rebound adjustment screws on the rear shock. But this spark plug thing has me wondering about the exact engine I do have, and how I might figure that out because I don't want to waste time and money buying parts for the wrong engine ya know. on the right side of engine it has casting #K404144901 I just don't know the significance of the engine casting number's and havn't found anything online that decodes the engine casting #'s yet. it is a great bike, I absolutely love it. i'm sold on DR's man. Best dirt bike's I've ever owned.
  13. confederateJACK

    alright guys lets see ur dr's! put up some pics!

    '96 350
  14. confederateJACK

    Dr350-T spark plug?

    i have a '96 DR350-T, the plug in it, was in it when I bought the bike. it is a FINE thread, long shaft, CR9EK with dual tabs. Recently I stopped by the bike shop and picked up some oil and filter for a change, also a new plug. The plug the guy gave me is what I asked for. (a stock plug for a DR350-"T" Trail model. He gave me a DPR9EA with COURSE thread, and unless i'm remembering wrong all my other DR's have also used that plug (which have all been the "t" trail model's with headlight and tail light only, kick start only and no turn signals, no hi/lo beam Headlight). This is the only DR I've owned so far that takes the FINE thread CR9EK. So i'm wondering if maybe this motor came out of a DR-SE, S or some other model. Does anyone know if this might be the case?...has anyone else owned a DR-T model that has taken the fine thread CR9EK? I mean it doesn't really matter to me what plug it takes, i'm just wondering now if maybe this is not the original stock engine for this bike. I've ran the VIN and according to the VIN on the frame the bike is a 1996 DR350-T model. I just don't remember ever having a dirt bike that took a fine thread plug before, unless i'm remembering wrong. Also, of all the plugs I've ever used, I've had the best luck with the single 'tab' or single contact, regular ole standard style plug, all of the double contact- fancy type- plug's I've ever used seemed to run substandard compared to the standard old regular style plug with the single contact tab thing.
  15. confederateJACK

    Would low disc brake fluid, in itself, cause brake to lock up/grab?

    Well I tend to treat people how they treat me, I logged on for helpful info (and usually I get it, and i'm willing to give it in return), not a trash talking attitude fest. if I wanted that I could log onto Topix.com. As it turns out (for the benefit of all who might be interested in a serious nature) The reservoir was full of brake fluid, the problem occurred because the caliper slider pins needed to be cleaned and lubed, also the 'return' hole inside the reservoir was clogged so I had to drill it out using a super tiny drill bit. I cleaned and flushed the system and refilled using DOT-4, I disconnected the top of the line and held it down inside of the brake fluid can and attached a clear tube to the bleeder port on the caliper and siphoned the fluid through to suck out all of the air from the line and fill it with fluid, it worked great to fill the line back up with fluid, i also used a seringe to inject fluid back into the caliper before refilling the line. the Front brakes are working perfectly again now. i also removed and cleaned the plunger-spring-rubber seals inside the reservoir unit. During this particular post i got the impression some "newbies" to TT are hesitant to backtalk a Moderator for fear of being kicked off the site, and some moderators (and/or users) may take pleasure in running there mouths needlessly before they know all of the information, which by definition is "ignorant". Simply asking me details would have been a heck of a lot more courteous and helpful than passing judgement or putting someone else's maintenance habits or mechanical skills in question. I asked a serious question and got one good reply followed by nothing but bullshit. if I said something to offend anyone it's only because they started the bullshit. Moderator or not, ignorant ill informed reply's are useless and completely counter productive. I fully understand and have noticed that different moderators have better and more helpful attitudes than some others, this is just the first time I've encountered such an attitude display on this site. Usually it's very helpful and displays a community behavior. I guess sometimes a surly Moderator sets the tone for all other smack talk that follows. i'll continue to use the site, but i'm not going to lay down and tolerate any attitude from anyone without saying something back. i'd wager that particular moderator has had a history of similar behavior in the many previous reply's that he's given on other posts,(more 'trash talk'n attitude' than advice) but I guess everyone needs a hobby. Some people take pleasure in berating others needlessly. Feel free to kick me off at anytime if I act inappropriate but I respond accordingly to who i'm talking to with the same amount of politeness or insulting behavior that is showed to me, which ever is required. I use the site for gathering and sharing helpful info and advice and that's typically what happens, but sometimes I guess bad behavior becomes contagious especially if the person being victimized is willing to take the abuse, I don't happen to be such a person. This issue is solved and the matter closed as far as i'm concerned and i'll no longer follow the post, I just wanted to log on and share what I found and what worked to fix it, which is the only reason why i'm here in the first place, and the only reason why i'll log on in the future. i'm not on here to talk shit or boast about my superior motorcycle knowledge or to inflate the size of my balls. i'll leave that to surly moderators and there small but loyal following of subservient newbie pups.