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About confederateJACK

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  1. Thanks. that's helpful, i'll write that down.
  2. I decoded the frame VIN and it says it's a '96 DR350T made in Japan. I wonder if the motor may have been taken out of a different model and put on this bike. Best I can recall it's the first DR I've had that takes the fine thread CR9EK plug. My other DR's were all T models according to there VIN decoder checks, all were almost identical to this bike and had kick start only, headlight and tail light. This bike has front susp adjustments on the bottom of the fork's only, and it has compression 'and' rebound adjustment screws on the rear shock. But this spark plug thing has me wondering about the exact engine I do have, and how I might figure that out because I don't want to waste time and money buying parts for the wrong engine ya know. on the right side of engine it has casting #K404144901 I just don't know the significance of the engine casting number's and havn't found anything online that decodes the engine casting #'s yet. it is a great bike, I absolutely love it. i'm sold on DR's man. Best dirt bike's I've ever owned.
  3. '96 350
  4. i have a '96 DR350-T, the plug in it, was in it when I bought the bike. it is a FINE thread, long shaft, CR9EK with dual tabs. Recently I stopped by the bike shop and picked up some oil and filter for a change, also a new plug. The plug the guy gave me is what I asked for. (a stock plug for a DR350-"T" Trail model. He gave me a DPR9EA with COURSE thread, and unless i'm remembering wrong all my other DR's have also used that plug (which have all been the "t" trail model's with headlight and tail light only, kick start only and no turn signals, no hi/lo beam Headlight). This is the only DR I've owned so far that takes the FINE thread CR9EK. So i'm wondering if maybe this motor came out of a DR-SE, S or some other model. Does anyone know if this might be the case?...has anyone else owned a DR-T model that has taken the fine thread CR9EK? I mean it doesn't really matter to me what plug it takes, i'm just wondering now if maybe this is not the original stock engine for this bike. I've ran the VIN and according to the VIN on the frame the bike is a 1996 DR350-T model. I just don't remember ever having a dirt bike that took a fine thread plug before, unless i'm remembering wrong. Also, of all the plugs I've ever used, I've had the best luck with the single 'tab' or single contact, regular ole standard style plug, all of the double contact- fancy type- plug's I've ever used seemed to run substandard compared to the standard old regular style plug with the single contact tab thing.
  5. Well I tend to treat people how they treat me, I logged on for helpful info (and usually I get it, and i'm willing to give it in return), not a trash talking attitude fest. if I wanted that I could log onto As it turns out (for the benefit of all who might be interested in a serious nature) The reservoir was full of brake fluid, the problem occurred because the caliper slider pins needed to be cleaned and lubed, also the 'return' hole inside the reservoir was clogged so I had to drill it out using a super tiny drill bit. I cleaned and flushed the system and refilled using DOT-4, I disconnected the top of the line and held it down inside of the brake fluid can and attached a clear tube to the bleeder port on the caliper and siphoned the fluid through to suck out all of the air from the line and fill it with fluid, it worked great to fill the line back up with fluid, i also used a seringe to inject fluid back into the caliper before refilling the line. the Front brakes are working perfectly again now. i also removed and cleaned the plunger-spring-rubber seals inside the reservoir unit. During this particular post i got the impression some "newbies" to TT are hesitant to backtalk a Moderator for fear of being kicked off the site, and some moderators (and/or users) may take pleasure in running there mouths needlessly before they know all of the information, which by definition is "ignorant". Simply asking me details would have been a heck of a lot more courteous and helpful than passing judgement or putting someone else's maintenance habits or mechanical skills in question. I asked a serious question and got one good reply followed by nothing but bullshit. if I said something to offend anyone it's only because they started the bullshit. Moderator or not, ignorant ill informed reply's are useless and completely counter productive. I fully understand and have noticed that different moderators have better and more helpful attitudes than some others, this is just the first time I've encountered such an attitude display on this site. Usually it's very helpful and displays a community behavior. I guess sometimes a surly Moderator sets the tone for all other smack talk that follows. i'll continue to use the site, but i'm not going to lay down and tolerate any attitude from anyone without saying something back. i'd wager that particular moderator has had a history of similar behavior in the many previous reply's that he's given on other posts,(more 'trash talk'n attitude' than advice) but I guess everyone needs a hobby. Some people take pleasure in berating others needlessly. Feel free to kick me off at anytime if I act inappropriate but I respond accordingly to who i'm talking to with the same amount of politeness or insulting behavior that is showed to me, which ever is required. I use the site for gathering and sharing helpful info and advice and that's typically what happens, but sometimes I guess bad behavior becomes contagious especially if the person being victimized is willing to take the abuse, I don't happen to be such a person. This issue is solved and the matter closed as far as i'm concerned and i'll no longer follow the post, I just wanted to log on and share what I found and what worked to fix it, which is the only reason why i'm here in the first place, and the only reason why i'll log on in the future. i'm not on here to talk shit or boast about my superior motorcycle knowledge or to inflate the size of my balls. i'll leave that to surly moderators and there small but loyal following of subservient newbie pups.
  6. How you came to that ignorant conclusion is beyond me. You have no idea how well my bike is maintained based on the information I gave. Since the brakes have performed perfectly up until today this clearly rules out 'mis-adjustment' or 'freeplay' of the lever. Much like your advice, your attitude is neither helpful nor relevant. But i'll give you a C+ for assholishness, and, at least you tried.
  7. Right..No rocks or deformation of disk or pad that I can see, that all looks good. Thanks for input, i'll try your suggestion and see what happens. Appreciate the help.
  8. Also the bike doesn't have any leaks of any kind that I've ever noticed or been able to find. ( no floor spots, no runny drips or slippery parts just clean dry tire-rim-brake caliper, reservoir, brake line, etc) and I've never noticed any brake fluid leaking out from anywhere and the brakes have worked perfect up until now, no noises, no rubbing, no bouncing, no grabbing, Good smooth operation, strong brakes and good lever action- good brake response- and good normal lever feel.
  9. Would Low disc brake fluid, in itself, cause a front disc brake to grab and lock up? I have a 96 DR350 and when I bought it the guy told me that the front brake fluid was low, but I kept forgetting to buy some (Dot-4). I've been riding the bike for almost 2 months and it's been doing great, no complaints. But last time I rode it I did notice that the front brake wasn't as good as it normally was. Well I took it for a ride today and got about a quarter mile down the road at about 35mph and started to notice a slight surging grab on the bike, couldn't figure out why so I slowed down to pull into a driveway and as soon as I hit gravel it locked up and I tucked it and tipped over (I can't remember for sure, but I might have tried to use a little front brake as I pulled in). the front brake lever felt tight and wouldn't pull and the brake stayed locked on the wheel (not totally locked up but mostly) for just a minute or so and the disc felt slightly warm but not hot by any means. after a couple minutes it opened back up and the bike would roll freely. So I rode back home slowly at about 5-10mph, stopping about 4 times and resting a minute or two so it would not get hot, I checked the disc every time I stopped and it barely felt a little warm to the touch but not hot and not even very warm, just slightly warm. The fluid level looks empty through the looking glass and after I got home the bike rolls free and fine. I suspect the low brake fluid caused the brakes to grab because it didn't have enough fluid in the system to keep them open. Does this sound like a reasonable scenario for the brake grabbing and locking up?...Low fluid alone as the culprit? Sounds probable to me I was just looking for input. I didn't know that would happen just because of low fluid, I thought the brakes just wouldn't work if the fluid got too low. But it seems that the fluid not only compress's the brakes but also keeps them open when you let off the lever.. is that correct? I've owned many bikes but have never had any brake problems before with any of them and never even had low fluid in any of them before best I can recall. Will low fluid cause this on it's own? the brake pads are fairly new (2 months old with daily use). I just took the wheel off last week and changed the tire and while the rim was bare I put it on a rim jig and checked the rim for trueness, warping and concentricity as well as checked the disc. Everything checked out fine last week. Low fluid was the only issue I could find with the bike, won't be able to purchase any Dot-4 until tomorrow. I believe it would be sufficient to drain, flush, fill and bleed the brake and it should be fine after that best I can tell. Thanks for any 2nd opinions going on the info I've given.
  10. I've decided to sell my 1993 Suzuki DR250P ENDURO, it's a low miles bike, 4-stroke, 6-speed, Renthal Pro-Taper bars, neoprene fork socks, Mikuni carb with stock jetting, 21" front tire (80%) 19" rear tire (currently at about 50%) (upgraded from the stock 18" tire) gold roller o-ring 520 chain, 11 tooth and 49 tooth off road and trail geared sprockets--4.45 gear reduction ratio, stock was 13 and 42 I believe at 3.32 ratio, chain and sprockets are in great condition, disc brakes, decompression lever, headlight and tail light, kick start, aluminum bark busters, brush gaurds, aluminum Baja fender brace, new aftermarket side panels and decals, always garage kept, low miles/hours bike, adult owned and rode, extremely clean and very nice, suspension upgrades (has front and rear progressive rate suspension off of a 1997 Suzuki DR350cc ENDURO) white frame, white plastics, yellow seat. extra parts included, 2-headlight stone guards, screened headlight cowl vent, engine guard skid plate, starts fine and runs excellent. everything performs as it should. brakes and clutch are great. engine is fantastic. stock original exhaust in pretty good condition. bike is extremely nice and very dependable. super condition. needs nothing. No Title-ENDURO bike. headlight and tail light only, kick start only. super clean, super nice. runs like a champ. extremely well cared for. last 3 pics were taken a couple months ago, the rest were taken about a week ago. Asking $1,950. CASH ONLY!! no trades. (south central Ky--Liberty Ky.- Casey county)
  11. 93 DR250P trying to hook up an aftermarket gear indicator and have it hooked up and it does indicate gears 1-6 but I can't get it to indicate 'neutral' (o). I tried hooking up the white lead from the display to the white wire coming from the gear box and that just makes it stick on "O" only on the display no matter what gear I put the bike in, when I break connection of white wire it indicates all gears except neutral. Has anyone else hooked up one of these china aftermarket gear indicators? ((sbsmoto 2010 red led display gear indicator with sensors that you mount by the shift lever and a magnet?)) i'd like to know if anyone knows if this bike does have a neutral indicator wire and if so what's the color of it? or how can I get this thing to indicate neutral, if possible. Thanks i'm not sure if this bike actually even has a neutral sensor in the gear box. But if it does i'd like to tie into that wire so that when it does trip juice to the wire I can have it hooked up to my gear indicator so it will zero out the display and indicate "N" or "0" on my display. ((Wires coming from my gear box are Blue, Green, Yellow, White. as well as two separate wires that are yellow and white but they are different and have a stronger wire coating on them) the wires coming out of the gear indicator display are also Blue Green Yellow White. first I tried disgaurding the aftermarket sensors and hoking directly into the blue green yellow and white wires coming out of the gear box but the display just stayed on "o" (neutral). then I used the sensors and kept the white wire connection and it still stayed on "o". then I removed the white wire connection and finally it did correctly display all the gears EXCEPT neutral. anyone else hook one of these up? any ideas? . Worst case scenario I may just have to NOT have a neutral indication and feel for neutral although it's going do display gear 1 when it's really in neutral.
  12. Can someone tell me what the recommended chain slack is on a 93 Suzuki DR250P ? i'm running an SRT-520 GOLD O-ring chain. 110 link. 11-tooth front sprocket. 49- tooth rear sprocket. I just bought the bike and lowered the ride height on the rear spring (it was cranked all the way up almost as high as it would go and I cranked the nut almost as far as it would go the other way to lower the seat height) and I think I need to tighten up on the chain a turn or so cause it seems just a tad slack. I measured the static slack with the bike on a stand and static is 20mm (or 2cm)- (or 3/4"). I raised the chain right behind the top chain track on top of the swing arm and measured again and it was 62mm-(or 6&1/4cm)--(or 2&1/2"). So taking both measurements and minus the first number (3/4") (if i'm going by the right formula) my slack is 1&3/4" slack. Any idea if that's right? appreciate anyone who knows for sure. Thanks. (pictures were taken before I adjusted the rear suspension)
  13. I have a lighting question... I have a 1993 Suzuki DR250P it came stock with a headlight and taillight that runs off of the engine and the bike has no battery. I would like to put an additional light in the headlight shroud vent under the factory headlight (small rectangle 'vent' spot in the shroud under the headlight) . I know I probably need a very low watt light, but since the lights runs off the engine is there a maximum watt that I need to keep in mind? the factory light is not great and my funds are very limited right now. So upgrading the factory headlight to some over priced brand new set up is not an option, i'm looking for a super cheap LED light (around $5 to $20) that will fit in the lower vent on the headlight shroud.. Probably 1&1/2" tall (2" tall max) and (1&1/4" tall is ideal), by 4" long (4&1/2 ideal) 5" max width. i'll be hooking up a switch so I can turn the 'extra' light off in daytime and turn it on at night for road use. i'd appreciate any exact fitment lights that others have put in this same spot. I've seen other endure/baja bikes with extra lights in this spot and love the way they look and would love to find one that fits perfect although I have a background in fabrication and can make about anything mount sturdy with custom hand made mounts etc if needed... i'm just having questions about what 'watt' should be my max (or my target watt light) since the lights work off of the engine (and if anyone has put a light here and what they used, and how it worked.) appreciate any recommendations or advice, Thanks