• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

236 Excellent

About gitenby

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member
  1. Republic of China (commonly referred to as Taiwan)
  2. Thanks OnPipe, what you describe is what I call conventional bleeding. I actually don't have air in the lines. After releasing the clutch lever the pressure does not regain itself easily while going through the bleeding process even though air is not in the lines. This issue appeared when my clutch started slipping out of the blue for no apparent reason, I changed clutch out with OEM and it still slipped bad, really bad. I could let the clutch completely out with brakes on. I tried bleeding but found the problem with bleeding, the only thing that accomplished was the slipping stopped and I'm riding again
  3. I’ve bled this clutch in the past with no issues at all. It functions now but I did have slipping issues last week and seemingly corrected itself when I attempted to bleed it. Present bleeding issues: I can’t reverse bleed, I simply can’t push fluid up from the slave to the MC. It’s as if the banjo it tight. This makes me question myself if reverse bleeding is possible on the clutch. When trying the conventional bleed from the MC to the slave, fluid comes out of the banjo without issue but the pressure is a PITA to get it built back up in the MC. Anyone have this happen and resolved it? Thinking maybe the MC...
  4. Check your messages for Link
  5. I just have the exact same story but with OEM clutch parts, not 3rd parts. It's working now, but I believe its a problem with my MC, It's not acting right when I bleed the system
  6. Believe I got it figured out
  7. What RPM does it idle at compared to the service manual spec?
  8. I searched but didn’t find info specifically for my year bike. If I short the ignition switch and use the kill switch for on/off, my light stays on. Does anyone have a procedure to make keyless work while it turns the light off? Thanks
  9. If you got the Tusk levers as I did, add 2-part epoxy to the inside of the adjuster cup and shape it with modeling clay. The Tusk cup is deeper than the stock one and causes too much travel if not modified
  10. Take the spring out of the lever
  11. Agreed, The 500 is awesome, but typically .5-1 hour tops on pavement or I'm trailering I'd need a very good reason to ride it an hour on pavement
  12. If you were local I'd buy a ticket to watch that
  13. I do Harbor Freight, Pittsburgh tools is lifetime warranty
  14. I ride single track in the most rugged mountainous terrain on the other side of VA. The more challenging the terrain is, the better I like it I'm more impressed with the 500 each time I take it out, it does everything in the dirt extremely well and I love this bike. I'm actually finding myself less tired at the end of the day compared to when I rode a CR250 (2t) setup for woods. BTW, I'm 61