Adam Campbell

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About Adam Campbell

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    TT Newbie
  1. They are pressed in steel bushings, meant to keep the swing arm through bolt from wearing on the engine cases. You could heat the case and pull them out if you wanted or needed to for wear reasons. They come in new engine cases. If you wanted to replace just the bushings you would need to make your own or have them made. If not worn too bad, polish them and grease upon reassembly, same goes for the through bolt.
  2. If your the one that took the forks apart, you are most likely capable of rebuilding the shock also. You could follow the recommendation given earlier about slicing a new bumper and safety wiring it on, or riding it without the bumper as long as your are not bottoming aggressively, or you could bleed the bladder pressure off and remove the clevis. Install the new bumper and refill the bladder with a high pressure hand pump, the pump for a mountain bike fork or the current MX air forks. Look up the pressure, should be somewhere near 150 psi. The air we breath is 70% nitrogen, your bladder, shock, and you will never know for as long as your bike is usable. ... But yes, rebuild it asap or have it rebuilt asap.
  3. Yours sounds like a valve lash issue. Have you checked the valves lately?
  4. I don't want to get too far off track with you but, it looks like you have all the info you need to change the brg. in question. Did you already service the water pump assembly? My thoughts are this; if your balance shaft brgs. need replaced there is most likely several other brgs. that are in need also, such as main and big end brg. The balance shaft brg. take much less abuse than the other two mentioned. Just my thoughts.
  5. Are you changing the balance brgs. due to a coolant leak or to fix a coolant leak? Just curious as to why you are replacing the balance brgs.?
  6. Did you buy yours or drill and stud them yourself?
  7. That's a totally different setup than the op is asking about running with a tubliss system. When I ran the tubliss setup with non studded tires, I would have a significant amount of tire rub on the tubliss liner. I think as long as you protect the tubliss liner by all means available to you then I don't see why it would not work.
  8. I'm still thinking a small tack with a tig is the best option. I may drill off to the side just far enough to intersect the shoulder with a flat head counter sink bolt. The bolt head would keep the push nut from turning in the event the loctite may fail.
  9. Have any of you guys had troubles with the rear bolt for the skid plate? The push in nut in the frame is just spinning. I am currently thinking of options of fixing it without welding, but welding it seems like the best option. I did get mine apart and just put a stud in it for now, what have you guys done to yours to fix it?
  10. The stall or bog is most likely related to the lean condition in the factory ECU. May also be the RPM in which you have it idling, may be too low. I keep mine around 2400 rpm at idle. You can send your ECU to someone like Tokyo Mods or PC and they will correct the faults with the stock mapping.
  11. I have picked at this type of problem for several years on a couple of my friends bikes. Long story short... the only long term fix for me is a new basket, hub, pressure plate, drive plates, friction plates, and springs. Just replacing one piece or a couple pieces at a time and the problem came back relatively quickly. The interesting part is there is a specific type of rider involved that causes this problem. I still haven't figured out what they are doing with the clutch that causes it but they both are about the same speed. I know it has something to do with how they operate the clutch. I have mostly given up on trying to figure it out but, at one point I was going to add telemetry and a camera to the clutch action during their ride and compare it to my own ride to find the root cause.
  12. Ask WPC who has done it in the past. Then ask if they will put you in contact with them. Learn from their mistakes if you can.
  13. I didn't think they are supposed to slip like you describe? I thought they are supposed to engage and disengage like a normal manual clutch only at a desired rpm set with the springs?
  14. I like the idea, marginal gains or not. I think the best approach would be to contact the manufacture and ask them to send you all the pieces before they are assembled. You send them to WPC then back to the manufacture and let them assemble them.
  15. The only way to get balls out without damaging anything is to remove the pins that hold the cages together. If your going that far you should send the cages also. The biggest trouble I see is perfecting the reassembly of the cage in short runs or one off situations. I have not tried to drill the pins and I'm not sure of the hardness of them, try it and find out. They may need to be ground off. Those pins are peened with precision tooling, that will be difficult to replicate. The other problem is knowing and using the proper material. If the cage comes loose you will have a catastrophic failure. Are the guys at WPC recommending this?