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bergers59

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About bergers59

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  1. I took my FCR for my 2004 wr250f all the way down this month, it always had a weird hangup like the cable is getting stuck, even though it happens without the cables on. I pulled it allll the way down, separated the upper and lower body and everything. I am now realizing that the problem may have been the prior owner never put the acc. pump springs on right. I'm trying to figure out the proper orientation of the spring that goes on last, although I want to make sure both are right. Pictures would be helpful, thanks
  2. bergers59

    WR250f wont idle for sh*% since R&D bowl

    I pulled the carb totally off, didn't mess with the hot start though. I need more info an adjusting/replacing the TPS on this bike, I have no idea how to check if it's good. I know later models with a digital dash cluster have a way of checking, but I'm not sure on mine
  3. bergers59

    WR250f wont idle for sh*% since R&D bowl

    I checked for air leakage on the boot with some spray, nothing changed. Although there is a small shallow surface crack on it, appears to be nothing though. Yeah I checked the o ring too, it isn't brand new looking but it doesn't have any tears. To be safe I may buy a new boot and o ring for the air screw, I agree with the air leak. Does anyone have an exploded diagram of a 2004ish FCR carb? This bike has always had a small carb problem, but I think it just got way worse when I pulled it off this time
  4. Just got the R&D powerbowl hoping to fix a stumble, since I pulled the carb off the bike, put the new spring in and the new bowl, it wont Idle at all. It's running way hot and popping at the end of throttle hits, Leading me to believe its lean as hell. Idle should be a separate function from the bowl, but idk what happened here. Fuel screw is at the same setting it was previously, only thing I can think of is the fuel screw got screwed up somehow. Settings: grey wire mod FMF slip on 42 pilot 180 main Fuel screw 2 1/8 turns out Was previously at 55 leak jet and was really close to perfect, which puts the bowl setting at about 1.75 turns out. Edit: Just let the bike sit and idle(try to) without touching throttle. The bike idle is varying huge just while sitting there for a few minutes. It swells like a wave from about 1100rpm to 2000rpm without me touching anything. The bike will eventually kill itself on the lower end of the swell after 30 seconds. I truly doubt it's the bowl itself or even the springs, but something got messed up and I'm not sure what
  5. bergers59

    2004 wr250f stator output 100W AC / 20W DDC

    I ordered a 55w 9 inch bar, it made almost double the lumens of all the 7 inch bars I found. It runs 9v-32v DC, but I'm going to convert to DC before it gets to the light. The stock light is either 55w or 60w, so it should be fine hopefully
  6. bergers59

    2004 wr250 aftermarket LED light

    Oh....yeah very good shot. For some reason both the yellow and blue wire go to the same terminal on the headlight, I guess the headlight is in series in the system? I'll separate the wires and take another read
  7. As stated in another post, I am putting an LED light on the front of the bike. I found a list of stock stator ratings, as well as the manual where the bike creates 120W @ 5000rpm. https://www.bajadesigns.com/tech-info/Stator-Reference-Chart.asp I also noticed similar bikes without lights generate 40W from the stator. So I have two questions, 1) Why is the power being split into AC and DC if the bike runs on AC, and the lights are AC? Is the battery being topped off by the DC? 2) Of the 100W generated by the stator is it unsafe to budget 70W of it to a new headlight? The stock HID says 60/55W on the back, so i can only assume that's the stock power consumption.
  8. bergers59

    2004 wr250 aftermarket LED light

    Today I unplugged the headlight and checked the voltage, (made sure fluke was on AC) and the voltage at idle was about 12v. When I revved the bike it went down as RPMs increased, and returned to 11 or 12v at idle. I don't like free revving my bikes in general, but I must have been around 5k rpm to check and it hovered around 8.5v. Isn't that opposite of what it's supposed to do? Or does the stator create less voltage and more current at a higher RPM?
  9. bergers59

    2004 wr250 aftermarket LED light

    My plan was to use a rectifier and capacitor to convert to DC
  10. bergers59

    2004 wr250 aftermarket LED light

    I mostly liked the look of it honestly lol I think big headlights look good on dirtbikes. I probably only need 40 watts to have sufficient vision According to the manual the bike puts out 120watts at 5000 rpm, and according to other sources 62watts at 1700 rpm. I think a 60 watt light is more on the safe side like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/1X-7inch-60W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Spot-Round-Driving-Offroad-SUV-ATV-Truck-Lamp/182479948295?hash=item2a7ca70a07:g:kvUAAOSwicpactQ6&vxp=mtr
  11. Hey all, I did a search on the forum but couldn't find what I was looking for. I'm looking to replace the headllight on my 2004 wr250 with an LED headlight, hopefully with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xprite-Red-9-Inch-96W-11000LM-Spot-5W-Cree-LED-Work-Light-Offroad-Round-Lamp/161930334860?hash=item25b3ccd28c:g:2MYAAOSw5cRZIzgC&vxp=mtr It is a 32 bulb, 96 watt, 8000 lumen headlight, with a 10-30v range I intend to keep the light on a switch as it won't be always on, but in case it starts to get dark out will be on for up to three hours at a time. I would really rather not have to upgrade the stock battery for something bigger to support the headlight EDIT: Found this video, He does a good deal explaining what needs to be done, but also raises some questions. I did a rough calculation, by using power law P=IV, I found that the amperage required for the light considering at least a constant 10V demand at 96 watts, that the needed current is 9.6 amps. How much amperage does a wr250 generate at idle?
  12. bergers59

    hanging idle, choppy off idle

    I think that did the trick, its run the best it has so far and is fairly smooth. I'll probably finely tweak it as I ride it for the next few weeks. Thanks!
  13. It's been over a month now that I've had a 2004 wr250, I've been going through the basic adjustments and wearables, riding in between to see how it feels and make adjustments accordingly. Something the previous owner told me was that the idle hangs, I knowingly bought it thinking it would be a simple carb clean. I cleaned the carb and meticulously cleaned the slow jet. I reassembled it with new cables and it still hangs, but I'm not sure what it could be. The owner said it could have been the sensor or a carb clean, but I'm not sure if it's bad tuning. It currently has; -grey wire mod -fmf factory 4 with"quiet" core insert(not quiet at all) -180 main -42 pilot -2 1/4 turns out on mixture screw The idle only hangs every third or fourth rev, and then another rev or letting out the clutch usually clears it. It's becoming a big problem considering I ride trials style woods, and the hanging idle has almost taken me into a tree a few times. Any help is appreciated here.
  14. bergers59

    Clutch arm freely moving?

    I looked up the part number, says tusk 2004 yz250f
  15. bergers59

    Clutch arm freely moving?

    Alright I think I "fixed" it. After pulling the clutch on and off a few times and changing to the old one, I realized the clutch cable was adjusted wayyyyyy out previously with the old clutch, so I tried that with the new one and it worked. I'm not sure if that's an inherent problem with with these, a worn part, or a crappy cable. It bothers the crap out of me that the cable is adjusted all the way out near the arm and 70% out on the lever. Does anyone else run their's like this? Something else I learned, the tusk springs are garbage. They're so stiff that I would never be able to use two fingers on the lever.
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