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About Jimmot

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    TT Newbie

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    South Africa
  1. Jimmot

    how does Suzuki's CCI work

    Hi Rich and thanks so much. I managed to get hold of some old and similar pumps. Armed with this courage, I found a few things out. So I'll post them for others that may follow. Disassembly of these pumps is easy. Remove the end caps (small screws (*4)) at each end, and watch out for the spring at the bottom end when doing so. Then push the piston down a bit so that the top cam arm can be removed from its housing (it just pulls out). This is the volume cam arm that attaches to the plate on to which the cable attaches. Its held in place by the top plate you have just removed. Then remove the drive shaft (rotate anti clock) and housing (carefully pull it off with a pair of waterpump or similar pliers, its only held in place by an O-ring in the housing. Watch out for copper spacers at the bottom of the drive shaft, present on some variants. The piston must be able to rotate at this point of proceedings. Once the worm gear is removed, then the piston can be extracted, and it has two parts. There are no pressed bearings in the pump. Reassembly is the reverse of the procedure. I found a bunch of red stuff possibly dehydrated oil, not rust) in one of the pumps and this obviously needs cleaning out. This piston was jammed at the upper end by this red stuff. So the advice to disassemble the pump after a long stand seems appropriate and worthwhile. Its a half an hour job, tops. The cam depths and shapes on top of the piston that ride against the volume adjusting cam are specially machined to give the exact mixes, so its not possible to swap these out absent a really good look at the cams on the top of the piston. The volume metering cams are similarly very specific. Finally, the holes on the bottom piston are specific to a particular pump. Again, do not swap without making sure they are identical in every respect. (BE VERY CAREFUL WITH DIMENSIONS SHAPES ETC IF YOU DO SWAP) On my oil pump, the leaking problem was present as the closing of the bottom port closed by the piston was just not happening by a fraction. The reason was that the stopper on the plate on the top cam where it is bent, has a small high spot caused during manufacture during the bending of the stopper arm. Thus the high point of the cam (oil off) was never fully engaged resulting in a slightly un-closed port at throttle off. Hence a bypass and the leak. So a little bit of filing (+- half a mm) removed the bent crushed metal off at the point of the stopper bend and the port now closes properly, but only just. No more leaks, or at very least so little as to be almost unnoticeable after a night's rest. It may need a touch more, but for the time being, its good enough to be monitored further. My guess is that the close off of oil at start up and idle in traffic would be so brief that for these few seconds (traffic light +- 20 sec) that the motor could cope adequately without oil in that brief time frame. And a few revs would initiate flows. This is a lesson I have re-learned too many times with a variety of machinery and tooling. Any tool or device made in large process manufacture is always better following love and attention to the detail that mass production cannot provide. I know that my Dad had issues with this prior, the evidence of many disassembles of the pump point to that. Not that I'm trying to be smart, its just that I like to understand things, and get them right. And sometimes, as Dad used to say " A ball hair split in half and sandpapered on both sides can make a difference". :-)) I hope this helps someone, sometime. Jim
  2. Jimmot

    how does Suzuki's CCI work

    Thanks so much for the responses - brilliant. I have been running normal two stroke mineral oils and also tried some especially (generically) made for injector pumps. Harder to get, but the same issue with the crank leak. (Its not the banjo bolts, new copper washers ensure no leaks and no leaks at the pump mounting site.) Please could kxrob forward the link for the oil pump rebuild kit. I can't seem to find it on e-bay (have tried). I have bench tested the pump and all is good. Except I get a small leak on the crank delivery port ie about 3ml per week using these oils. I have looked at the manual and have figured the pump out, I think. My concern relates to getting the bearings out from the body. My guess is that the bottom and top caps need to be removed, as well as the cam at the top of the pump, and attempt to remove the piston. If not possible, then find the place where the gears disengage (about every 7th to 10th revolution) and pull out the bearing on the drive? Not too sure though. Has anybody disassembled one of these pumps to get to the seals / O-rings? If I mess it up, then to a smelly creek and no paddle we must go. A place I've been to before, and to where have little wish to return. Warnings not to attempt to disassemble are present in some net sites. Scaredy cat, I am, for reasons explained below. I see nothing on you tube re disassembling this little pump. When my Dad died I inherited the bike, so its a sentimental thing........... I'm nearly 60 and want to pass the bike on in perfect condition. First time in my life I'm really stumped with a mechanical contraption. It's back on the bench. I apologise in advance if someone takes offence at my lack of experience. Again, any help would be much appreciated. Hmmmmm. Best to all, Jim
  3. Jimmot

    how does Suzuki's CCI work

    Hi guys, I would much appreciate a bit of help. Bike Suzuki RV90 (1977) in final stages of re-build. I have an issue with the CCI oil pump. When I leave the pump to stand, it seems that there is a leak into the crank case via one or other of the the delivery hoses (I strongly suspect the one to the crank end). i.e. oil reservoir depletes under gravity. Am using normal 2 stroke mineral type oil. Much smoke for a while at start then on riding disappears. Oodles of oil spat out of the exhaust. I note that the oil pump has two delivery ports. One, variable delivery to the carb, and the other at a fixed rate of 2.5 cc per hour flat lined to the crank. Based on this it appears that the crank delivery is independent of the delivery pistons for the air / fuel mix. If so, can anybody tell me whether the crank delivery is gravity powered? Or is this sucked in via crank case negative pressure in conjunction with the one way valve. Could the problem possibly be a stuck spring on the case one way valve, if a spring is present in that part? Or is a constant 2.5 cc delivery supposed to happen even when the engine is not running - (I much doubt this)? Another possible alternative is that modern oils are just too thin for the CCI fixed volume port and I can't get original CCI oil. I do note a SAE 20 on the photo of the CCI can available on the net. The manual on p. 7 states " If Suzuki CCI oil is not available, a non-diluent (non-self mixing type) two strike oil with around SAE 30 may be used." On enquiry within the oil industry, it seems that a non-diluent non-self mixing type two stroke oil, is apparently contradictory. Anybody have any idea as to what Suzuki intended with the description noted above? The net also advises (?) that Castrol a747 was an imported replacement for the CCI. This is thicker -?- , but hellishly expensive. Is this the case as it leads us to castor blends at very high viscocity? Right now I'm stuck and have spent a lot of time seeking answers. Hopefully the multiverse will offer some guidance. Other possibilities may be present. Does anyone have a recipe for CCI oil? Stumped, am I. Any help in understanding this issue would, I'm sure, be pretty useful to many people. Best..