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About apophis13

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    TT Newbie
  1. I had a clarke extended tank on a yamaha tw200 that had a similar defect but in the triple tube area. I got the same response. Now i get acerbis
  2. I just got a 2002 XR this week as well. First thing I did was get a 1986-1989 XR250r 18" rear wheel on ebay. There are only (2) tires in 17" right now that I can find. This 4 year XR250r wheel bolts right in with no mods. Its the same hub and bearings. You still use your XR200r axle. Now I can use any 100/100-18, 110/100-18 and most 120/100-18 tires.
  3. Mostly desert success on the first big trip. Day 1. 22 miles at rabbit vallley (UT/CO border). Day 2. 53 miles whitewash area outside of Moab. Day 3 25 miles at whitewash in solid rock formations and some dunes. The dunes (very deep sand) was the only area the bike didnt do well. combo of hard terrain tires and fluffy windblown sand. I kept sinking to the axle and could rarely keep the float/surfing going. I still averaged about 42 mpg. I have the extended 1.7 main tank and the front 0.8 numbers plate tank. even on the 53 mile day, the numbers plate tank was empty and barely started on the 1.7. I think I can get 100-105 miles with this setup. we have done a few 80+ mile days in the desert, but I am worn out by this time.
  4. I took the 150rb to Rampart Colorado this weekend to see how all my mods worked out. I am just shy of 5'9". I keep reading people saying this bike is for people under 5'6", but with $50 in risers you can get this setup for someone several inches taller without new cables. with longer cables maybe even 5'10 Biggest improvement. the Boysen QuickShot 3. Sure you could spend several days doing this cheaper with different leak jets and pulling the carb off several times, but it only took me 2 hours from start to finish to have it installed and tuned . Yes it was $102, but $102 vs hours and hours of headache... Also, I can tune while I am riding for different elevations (i ride between 4000-12000 feet) The 3" of riser made it nearly perfect. 30mm straights into 2" of the pivots. the pivots let me position the bar forward which also let me keep the stock cables with some rerouting. The kill switch had to be on the left frame side, not the right. Tire switch. the last time at rampart I had on new maxxis IT's. they sucked. I had maxxis desert IT on my XR250r and they were great, but it must be the pattern+rubber density difference between the Desert IT to standard IT to make these not work for Colorado. I The front tire on the non-desert IT's would never track in deep pea-gravel and the rear wouldnt brake . The rear would also spin on steep solid rock and barely grab Switched the front to a washougal II and the rear to a starcross MH3. was perfect. the front tracked, the rear braked much better. I did not spin the rear on any solid rock sections when I rode last at Rampart with 14x56 sprockets, i had to ride almost always in 2nd and on very steep, 1st. 3rd was so boggy anywhere I couldnt get power. the 14x58 let me ride about 2/3's in 3rd and 1/3rd in 2nd with only 1 section requiring 1st. I think this keeps me in a better range for the terrain here in CO and UT. In UT you need a granny gear for steep rocky trials type sections. Highest RPM was 8k. not anywhere near the 14.5K limiter So, if you are 5'6-5'9 and want a 187# 4 stroke bike, the CRF150rb is completely do-able, but I suggest you test ride one first to be sure
  5. I just setup a CRF150Rb for trail riding for a 5'8" adult. 140#. I like that I can literally carry this bike. The first picture was before I installed the flatlands guard. second picture is it installed and the riser setup. this lets me raise the bars and shift the bar forward as well. Mods: flatland skid guard. required in colorado and utah trail tech stator w/weighted flywheel (it only comes with a weighted one). we ride a lot at night. gotta have lights LED pods 0.8G front plate gas tank. acerbis 1.7G acerbis extended main tank. <<<<this tank has a reserve. the stock tank does not. total 2.5g. we do a lot of 80-100 mile rides. MPG on trails so far is 42 when i had 14x56 sprockets sprockets now. 14x58. MPG unknown yet boysen hole shot 3. its a 2008 with the notorious lean bog. still tuning it. It has helped a lot hand guards. radiator guards. trail tech vapor speedo/tach/temp/odom 30mm straight PLUS 2" pivot risers. I'm 5'8. the 3.25 rise is just what I needed .
  6. On the XR250R today I added a 1.3AH gel battery. Smallest 12V I could find with good ratings. It fit in the bottom of the airbox. Anyway, wired it to the trail tech reg/rec and now I have 30 seconds of stall lighting once the engine is not running. Just like the WR setup. I will do a few rides on it to see how it works out. both setups I have use Trail Tech model 7004-RR150
  7. the stock stator is 120w. 20w DC for charging the battery and 100W AC to the headlight . This setup has run multiple rides with no issues and the elect start always works to test your theory, on the WR250f, I disconnected the battery leads from the rectifier so the stator is only able to, per the wiring diagram, charge the battery and only direct AC is running the leds and no connection is to the battery.the 96watts of LED are still on. I assume by magic. the lights do go off now when the bike shuts off since there is no battery. Ironically today I wired my back-up bike, a 2002 XR250R that has no battery and an 80w stator with the same model trail tech. The only thing on this setup is one yellow grounds to the frame. I did the same post AC rectifier headlight wire back. I am running a 24W led bulb in the headlight bucket and a 54w LED bar. Both run fine. Its a street legal dual sport bike. The XR has no battery. Again I assume magic is running the leds Everyone else would does this on the WR, including baja designs, says do not float the ground when using the trail tech rec/reg. I guess they dont know anything about this stuff
  8. I saw several people with various questions and setups for this, but I want to explain a simple route for what worked for me. I night ride a lot so I just needed a DC line to run LED headlights. All you need to do is this: 1.wire the trailtech rec/reg to the battery with red and black 2. tape off one of the two yellow lines on the trailtech reg/rec as you will only use (1) 3. disconnect the factory headlight bulb lead from the wire harness. Run a wire from the headlight AC hot to the yellow trailtech line from the cable you just disconnected. It only has a hot and ground. 4. run a wire back from the trailtech DC accessory line (red/yellow) back to the headlight area. this is your new DC power 5. Run a black ground wire from the battery back to the headlight area. You need a battery ground, not a frame ground. Done. This gave me 100W of LED to the headlight area. The trailtech model I got has a voltage adjuster and time delay so when the bike shuts off (or stalls) I have 30 seconds of LED before they turn off. This process took me about 2 hours since I was making it up as I went along. Since I didnt disconnect the factory AC regulator, I didnt change the AC to the CDI. So the bike has 2 rectifiers. the OEM and Trailtech. Each runs different components. You should be able to do this on any bike the same way by grabbing the AC hot to the headlight. I was going to install a capacitor to get rid of LED flicker, but I didnt have any. I am running a 2000 lumen 24W bulb where the OEM bulb was and am running a 7200 Lumen 72W 12" LED bar off the handlebar. so 96W of LED power