scott taggart

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About scott taggart

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  1. @Sigma Pi I am not a hardware guy myself (software) but having a scope around is certainly very handy for some stuff. The one I have is a standalone unit that costs about $350 new (probably a lot cheaper used): There are also ones that plug into your PC's USB port that are very nice and cost a fraction of the standalong units but of course require you to drag your PC or portable to wherever you want to take a measurement (i.e., the garage, etc.). See here for example: And, of course, there's unlimited new and used on fleabay: Finding the problem with my wiring mistake on the FE501 was not possible without a scope. Of course had I paid better attention to the wiring and schematic I would have never had a problem in the first place!! Good luck!
  2. PROBLEM SOLVED!!! In my post where I show the power cycling between 14 and 8v (oscilloscope picture), I traced it down to the fact that the orange wire I was tapped into is plugged into the turn signal relay!! So, even when the turn signals are off my aftermarket relay continues to cycle. The misleading thing about my goose chase is that KTM reused the orange wire for the turn signal relay circuit (see P. 4, K20 of the '17 US 501FE circuit). So, me being an assumptive type guy found an orange wire at the front of the bike, tapped into it and saw the cycling voltage. Why HTML chose to reuse the orange colored wire in this small sub-circuit is beyond me. After a little probing around I found a nice reliable power source in the YELLOW-BLUE wire. This comes off the light relay and is fused so that's good too. Anyway, thanks for the ideas and help and be careful about assuming the orange wire is the one you are looking for...
  3. Hey fellow husky/ktm experts. I am still trying to find a reliable and stable 12V supply for my GPS on my '17 501FE. I tried the orange wire as suggested by crazybrother and still experience the same problem as with all other wires that, at first attempt (as measured with a VOM) appear to be 12V. The issues is that my garmin keeps cycling between powered on and "power-lost" every few seconds. I suspected some kind of transient voltage even though this was hard to see on my VOM. Today I hooked up the oscilloscope and found the ugly mess shown in the picture. It appears that that about every .7 seconds (700ms) the voltage drops from 14.1 to 8V (with a funny little spike in that drop too). The drop lasts about .35 S (350 millisconds). This voltage spiking is very regular and must be part of the normal ECU junk. I am going to probe some other wires but as usual, I am open to any and all ideas. Starting to lean toward a simple wire directly from the battery and a manual switch.
  4. 12V may appear to run to it but AFTER the bike is started, the 12V "goes" away (meaning with a meter you will no longer see it (I verified this with my VOM)). I think the system is some kind of grounded "on" setup. I know you can remove the key switch entirely and plug in the "always on" jumper. This implies to me that the 12V is not a true battery 12V but some very low current line coming from the computer.
  5. @crazybrother - ok, I will do that and let you know - many thanks!
  6. Thanks. I already ordered the pro moto one. The warp9 looks like it could suffer from the same weakness problem right where the thin spot is around where the bolt goes through. If I break the pro moto one I will try the warp9...
  7. I am not sure what auto-retract is? The stand broke right at the hinge. I just got off the phone with pro-moto and they do have a stand (not cheap).
  8. Thanks. Good to know about the oil not having any additives. I am sure the oil is all it's cracked up to be but I have to say using a different weight oil than what is suggested makes little sense to me. Why do it without some science for that bike to back it up (my bike hasn't failed yet is not science). Are you using that weight because that all that is a available? Why not use the recommended weight? KTM recommends bel-ray oil so they have no vested interest in selling oil. Presumably they know the best weight for their own machines. Regarding the scotts filter, I can't seem to get through the many controversies posted in many forums about the efficacy of these stainless filters.
  9. Thanks for the idea but I have a complication. I have the aftermarket headlight switch (sickass?) that shuts off the lights completely (normally I leave them off). I the off position the daytime running light is off. I will check to see if I can figure out where that light's power source comes from to see if I can tap into it.
  10. Tims1572 - I really like the idea of cranking the bike over with kill switch on to get the filter cavity full, etc. Checking into your recommended SS filter - interesting and thanks for the link. I'd like to know more if they really are what they say they are. I came here looking for a non-OEM filter I saw some guy using on youtube but I can't figure out the part number to search for. I just got a '17 501 - mine recommends 10W-50 - not sure if yours does or not but I personally would not use a different weight than what is recommended - oil viscosity is critical for cold starts (no metal on metal) and hot temps (same thing). Anyway, one more comment on using custom oils and this is a biggy. Many car oils have additives that reduce friction (typically labeled "Energy conserving", etc.). It is my understanding that these can cause clutch slippage, etc. So, as tempted as I am to go buy less expensive synthetic oil at walmart (i.e., Mobil 1, etc.), I am leery of doing this because of these additives. My past 5 motorcycles have been very explicit about this (Africa Twin, FE501, DRz400, GROM, etc.). I think they all say the oil must meet the "MA" spec. So, food for thought - check your owner's manual carefully because as much as I like to think the manufacturer's steer us toward their oils for profit, there are some reasons behind some of the recommendations.
  11. I just got my new '17 501FE. I gave some first impressions in a different post so I will not repeat. Short story is I need a good soyrce of KEYED 12V for my GPS hookup (by keyed I mean it turns off when the key is in the off position). I need someone smarter that I to interpret that wiring diagram... I have the service manual and printed the schematic. I can't make much of it -- I am very good at wiring diagrams and have added keyed 12V to many other bikes but this one has me stumped. The ignition switch on and off positions don;t seem like they take 12V and connect to anything - I think I have heard elsewhere that the ignition switch can be entirely removed and two wires connected or one connected to ground to make it a "regular, non-keyed dirt bike (an explanation of that would be great). It seems like this bike lets the ECU control everything and that there is no easy 12V for accessories available, per-se (I hope I am wrong). As part of a desperate experiment (I was running out of time before riding), I took my VOM and probed the wiring harness behind the headlight looking for a hot wire when the bike was running. The strange thing is that many were hot but only periodically!! I would plug my GPS into them and it would power up but then every 10 seconds or so say power was lost only to have it return a few seconds later!! Sure enough, if I measured any of these potential wires with my VOM they would show 13 of so volts for a while and then drop to zero for anywhere from .3 to 1 second before returning back to 13v. Very strange behavior and they were all sort of doing this. I did not haul out the oscilloscope to see detailed behavior but I am willing to do that... I presumably was tapped into something in the ECU. Ok, so that was some bad science and I am willing to move from the errors of my ways with your help. If you can provide insight (along with location on the wiring diagram and wire color) of where I might find reliable 12V when the bike is running, I would be grateful. Please don't say "just hook it to the battery with a switch - that is not my style or the solution I am looking for). Presumably others have interest in getting keyed power for their goodies too. Thanks for your constructive responses.
  12. Hi, I just got my first two days of riding in the N CA woods and trails on my '17 501FE. Eventually, I tipped the bike too far to the kickstand side and it folded under (as the dealer told me it would). Anyway, I am looking for any suggestions on an aftermarket stand. A buddy as the pro moto but they do not list one (yet). Thoughts and help appreciated. Some other first impressions: out of the crate, the bike is amazing (stock everything except 13/48 gearing and signals and rear fender thinned down ). Bucket loads of endless power down low and up high. I could not want for more. I have zero problems starting or ideal cold or hot (as other express with older models). I see elsewhere on the forum people talk about getting the ECU mapped. My real complaint is that right off of zero throttle the bike "jumps" a bit - I'd like to see that buffered or dulled just a bit for better control - any thoughts on if the mapping addresses that? Suspension is overall good but a front is a bot harsh on the babyheads (I weigh about 185 and had a 25lb backpack). Gearing seems way too low for me so I am going back to at least 14 in the front (I never used first on 100+ miles of tight trails, creeks, etc. Since the bike will pull any gear anytime, 2nd handles everything and 6th is a bot low on the wide-open stuff). If first is a tad higher with the 14 I could see using first if necessary feathering the clutch a few times a day. Thanks for your constructive responses.
  13. Thank you for researching and posting this - very helpful