ridesanoldbike

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About ridesanoldbike

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  1. According to my notes, and clymer manual 13 chain links is Wr timing. 12 for yz timing. I tried 12 and I lost a little more bottom end grunt than I liked. The latter was awesome between 6-9000 rpm though. Went back to 13. I have the same setup. 04 yz450 carb. For some reason my bike likes to be jetted lean. I’m at a 40 pj and 170 mj, with a yz needle at the second clip position from top. Not sure what pilot you are running but if your pipe is glowing try going one size fatter.
  2. Cool. Pretty interesting.
  3. It’s there for a reason. I don’t know if the bike will start without it or not but i think it changes your cdi timing for an easier startup. Also I’m pretty sure it changes your rev limiter when in neutral
  4. It’s your neutral switch and that wire is hard soldered to it. You’ll need to replace the neutral switch.
  5. My Baja kit works great!
  6. Are your valves in spec?
  7. Just a thought but any chance the carb body seal is leaking? They don’t offer them as a normal replacement plate but you can order one through JD jetting. I had a lot of odd issues with my carb until I swapped it out with one from a newer yz450
  8. A small amount of clutch drag is normal and if your idle circuit is improperly tuned I’m not surprised it wants to die. I had a lot of problems getting mine dialed in when I bought it. I would return your needle to where it was when you got it and then read the stickie on selecting the proper pilot jet and fuel screw setting. These are the biggest issues with the idle circuit. There are really great threads on here and this is how I learned how to get mine dialed in. You wanna check your a/p circuit as well.
  9. Try vindecoder.eu. Just tried it with my number and it seemed to work.
  10. Are you sure it’s a WR and not a YZ?
  11. When my rod seized I sent the crank assembly to millennium technology. They do amazing work for a reasonable price. It was only about 120 or so plus the cost of the new rod. They true the assembly and weld the pin in for accuracy. I highly recommend a specialty shop like them. It took about 3 weeks to get it all back. It was my first time rebuilding 4t motor. Not too bad. Just take lots of pics as you disassemble. Sounds silly but they were a great help when reassembling the left side of the motor. Also I’d suggest checking your oil pump while you’ve got it apart and ordering new o-rings for the oil passages as they weren’t included with my gasket and seal kits. Don’t overlook oem parts. Can’t go wrong with them.
  12. I agree. As a heavy equipment mechanic I never use impact on sensitive or fine threaded engine parts. Typically on any interior engine parts it’s always hand tools. Especially on a thin nut such as that. Sorry to say but pretty sure Yamaha will tell you they’re not responsible. Bummer though, I can imagine how frustrating that must be.
  13. You might check out revlock. I know they still offer a slip clutch for those old Yamaha’s.
  14. Got it figured out thanks. I talked to their tech support and they felt that it was a battery issue. I’ve never had any juice with key on engine stopped and I assumed I didn’t really need it. But apparently the battery got too low in volts and wouldn’t recover with the stator power when running. I bought a 12 dollar charger and gave the battery a charge. Boy what a difference that made.