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About larrythephoneguy

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  1. Not to hijack but do you not warm your engine up before riding after you install a new piston/rings? I get where you are coming froma s far as getting the rings to seat but I've always been nervous about getting on it with a cold engine, especially with a new piston.
  2. from what I read on here brass shavings=big end bearing
  3. Considering 2 nuts are inside the head in an oiled enviroment and I have never had to use so much force removing head nuts I properly torqued I think it is a fair assumption the were over torqued. Of course anything is possible though.
  4. What do you mean work it out with a straight edge? Would machining the spacer down the same distance the bearing moves in really load the bearings like that as long as the tolerances between them are the same? Seems to me as long as long as the spacer was cut down the same distance the bearing location moved that all would be good, though I'm no engineer. I'll look into the the shim thing though, that does sound ideal.
  5. 45Nm is 33 ft/lbs. I double checked my honda manual and it actually says 29 ft/lbs for my 06. Both are a long ways from 48 ft/lbs.
  6. I'd throw a piston in it if you do not know how many hours are on the last one. It's like 70 or 80 for the piston, wrist pins, and circlips and 35 for rings online. Another thing, if a shop said it needs valves... they probably just pulled the valve cover and checked the clearances and saw they are tight. It'd be worth a shot to shim them to the correct specs and see if they stay. It's not hard no need to pay a shop. Titanium valves (oem) tend to tighten up and once that happens they tend to not want to stay in spec. But unless theyd been shimmed many times before (doesnt sound like it) you can't hurt much by trying. If they stay, awesome, if not you spend the money you were gonna spend anyways.
  7. I just cannot win with wheels. I have a set of wheels with SMPro hubs on my crf250r. Very similiar to stock; 2 bearings on drive side and one on the other with a spacer between the bearings. Anyways when I got the wheels the bearings seemed very tight, but I figured they'd loosen up? Anyways 10-15 hours of riding on the wheels later I check the bearings and they are even tighter... could barely turn them. I order a new set and go ahead with knocking the old bearings out from the opposite side with a punch. ANyways I beat up the lip/stop for the bearing race on the side with 2 bearings so there was a bit of metal protruding that would keep bearing from sitting square. So I call around and finally find a machine shop that can knock down the metal that would keep the bearing from sitting square. I was hoping for them to just knock off the excess to let the bearing sit square but he asked if it was ok if he trims it up to 10 thousands. I give him the OK on that but tell him there is a spacer that goes there so any excess would need to be taken off that as well and I'd bring it the next day. Get a call the next day sayings it is ready, so I go to the shop with spacer in hand. He says they did not have to take any metal below the original surface and I should be good to go. Ok cool, that is what I wanted. This weekend rolls around and I go to put the bearings in. I test fit the spacer and it is longer than the distance inside the hub between the two bearing stops. I get to looking more and it appears they did remove a fair bit of metal from the stop for the bearing race. Looked like they trimmed the stuff protruding and then knocked down the original surface another 1/8". Way more than I OK'd. I installed the bearing in the opposite side (they didn't touch this side) and set the spacer on the inner race and it's hard to tell but it looks like it protrudes a couple mm past the stop for the bearing race they machined. So this puts me in a situation where I not only do I need the spacer machined down, but I do not know how much. I suppose I could see if they (or someone else) could measure how much material was removed from where the bearing race stop was originally and take that off the spacer. But even then, if it is the 8th inch I think, that moves the outerspacer in 1/8" and decreases the with between the spacers/overall wheel width by that much. Worried about any issues that would arise from that with there being an extra 1/8" or more between the wheel and swingarm. Just looking for advice on where to go from here I guess? How important is the inner spacer width? Say they knock it down and it is slightly shorter than it needs to be, will that cause problems?Is the effective hub width (spacer to spacer) going to cause problems or will the swingarm simply flex when torqued to take it up adequately?
  8. I recently overhaled mine (crank, bottom end bearings, cylinder, piston, valves, wheels, bearings, etc) and could have bought a lightly used 16 for what I've spent on it. And I still need a complete clutch. Didn't plan on spending that much but once you start dumping money in it knowing you wont recoup and find something else you're like &%$#@! it, no turning back now. Cutting the seats is around a hundred bucks once you pay for shipping. Guides are another hundred or so in labor iirc if you need them, though at that point you are getting in new head territory. That being said getting this bike and putting a fresh top end in it for 1500 beats the hell out of buying a running bike for 1500-2000 of unknown condition. Personally, I'd look for a 250 2 stroke if I was trying to keep it under 2k.
  9. I noticed that too. Also on the stock mufflers the bands in the rear are like the front where they are 2 pieces with a gap between them vs the one piece (or at least continuous on teh top, cant see bottom in pic) on the yoshimura. Also looks like you have the anodized red mounts... so you probably do have the yoshi.
  10. Looks like stock mufflers with painted tips to me. They look the same and those bands riveted in at the ends are oem. Heat shield on header is definitely not honda.
  11. Yeah I just ordered a new jug and piston. Everything will be new and I won't have to fvck with getting it measured at a machine shop, tearing it down in another 20 hours, etc. Not to mention I put close to 2k in the bottom end/head a little over a year ago.
  12. I sent mine off to a reputable shop most people on this forum have probably heard of because like you, I don't trust anyone locally. Figured if they're rebuilding 4 stroke mx bikes all day everyday they have to know what they are doing. Paid 350ish for labor for full rebuild minus head work and shipping. Just tore it down today and the head nuts were torqued to 48 ft/lbs when the spec is 28. I think I'll be doing it myself next time. I've had the bottom end apart before, it is a lot of work to do everything but it is not rocket science. Just stay organized. If you do try it get a honda service manual. Wouldn't attempt it without one.
  13. well I have a ring/gasket set here, though given the mild scoring I was going to go ahead and order a new piston. Contemplating getting a cylinder to go with it.... $200 at partzilla Idk how I always get scoring like this. Only 40 hours on this piston and put in a used cylinder from a parts engine that was in spec when I did the piston. Last piston was a wiseco that had 80 hours and the crosshatch was gone in the cylinder around where the skirts travel and there was bad scoring on the piston.
  14. There's also some light scoring but I am mainly concerned about the knick. It can easily be felt when running a pick over it. New cylinder or am I good?
  15. Yeah, I went something like 80 hours on the piston/rings before last and I had a lot of skirt/cylinder wear... worrying amounts. I already have a ring set and gasket kit, bike is torn down. If I decide to do a piston it'll have to wait a week or more.