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YamX

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  1. I am interested in the Lectron carb for my 2017 YZ250x, but I am concerned about the air boot rubbing on the rear shock. I didn't want to remove the reed spacer as I have heard that it changes the bottom end torque curve. So I emailed Lectron about my concerns and this was their reply: We sell at least 10 carbs per week for YZ 250/YZ 250X models. You do not need the spacer for the torque curve as the Lectron is longer than the stock carb so it stands farther away from the intake tract than the kiehin does. There is not enough room for the Lectron with the spacer. David Dunne, VP I tend to agree with his statement but I have read that it does change. Now I am really confused. Any recommendations other than buy it and try it?
  2. YamX

    YZ250X Boyesen Reed Cover Bolts

    I bought these with small blue washers as well. I googled a few bikes online and most people seem to use the socket cap style, no idea why.
  3. I just purchased a Boyesen Reed ignition cover (its is currently being shipped) for my 2017 YZ250X and I really would like to replace the Phillips head bolts with something better. I also run a Steahly 11oz flywheel weight so I needed to purchase a spacer. I called Steahly and they supply 5 M6x35mm bolts with the spacer, so I was considering purchasing some socket cap M6x35mm that use a 5mm allen key. What have others done in the past? Is an 8mm hex head a better idea? Thanks. Bob
  4. YamX

    2017 YZ250X FMF Gnarly Pipe choice

    Thanks for the responses guys! This is exactly why I love this forum. Doc_speeder I saw the 3 different Gnarly pipes on Rocky Mountain ATV MC.
  5. I am picking up my new 2017 YZ250X next week and I am wondering which pipe I need to put on my Christmas wish list. lol. I have seen 3 different flavours of the Gnarly, Torque, Woods, and Desert. I trail ride so I'm automatically assuming either the Torque or the Woods. What is the difference between these? Thanks guys.
  6. The pulse pickup was damaged beyond repair as well as the stator base plate. OEM parts are on their way. Thanks guys.
  7. So my son bailed on his 70 yesterday and the chain came off cracking the flywheel cover and in the process shredding one of the wires on the stator pickup. Has anyone had any luck repairing this wire? I am going to remove the flywheel tomorrow and attempt to replace the wire, solder it and use heat shrink tubing to complete the job. I have ordered new sprockets, chain, flywheel cover and chain guide ( I think that this is the reason the chain came off) hopefully this will stop this from happening again.
  8. Hey no more bearing noise!!!
  9. Thank you! I'm bolting her back together right now.
  10. I am replacing my clutch bearing and I ran into a problem with the thrust washer in between the clutch basket and the inner hub. The problem I am having is the washer has teeth on it to slip into the grooves of the shaft but it slides past the grooved part and sits on the thinner part of the shaft. I can move the washer up and down it is not tight at all. I know it will get sandwiched between the basket and inner hub but is this normal? I would assume it has teeth so it sits on the shaft not past it. Thanks in advance.
  11. Thank you for the information. I will take a look at it soon Bob
  12. I just picked up a very good condition 2006 CRF 70 for my son. The only problem I can see so far is that the front fork makes a squeaking or high pitched sound on the rebound action of the front fork. I am not sure what it could be, air trapped? Low oil? Any suggestions? Thanks.
  13. I just got the bike about a month ago. I will pull the pipe off this weekend and evaluate. I will try to bend it as I think that should be best and if it is hitting the frame I'm sure that it got bent some how. Thanks for the replies! Bob
  14. I have a 2006 YZ250 with a Gnarly pipe that is just making contact with my frame on the left side. I have read posts about denting the pipe slightly, where others post to bend the pipe using a long pipe or broom handle. The dent would be small, like 1/8" deep and 2 inches wide and 3 inches tall. Any thoughts on which method is preferred?
  15. I had a stubborn bearing to remove so I cut the edge of the bearing with a dremel and then inserted a punch under the bearing against the linkage and bent it in. I took it out fairly easily after that. Careful not to mess up the face of the linkage.
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