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XR Pilot

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  1. Nothing wrong with dual sporting an XR imo - mine is fully street registered, Dunlop D606s (not sure if you consider those a street tyre but they wear well), has a rack and saddle bag supports. I ride it everywhere and have just logged 6,500km (~4000 miles) on it in the last 6 weeks self-supported
  2. XR Pilot

    XR400 - 440 kit long term longevity

    Quick update on this motor - after the freshen up and refitting the motor it popped a head gasket after about 20 minutes and I ended up trailering it home - the machinist I used (the same one as previously) wasn't on his game this time. I took it to another shop where my parts sat around for a month, got it all back and went somewhere else (by this stage I was more than a little frustrated..) and had the head and barrel skimmed and it turned out the freshly cut valves were leaking quite badly, so they were recut.... awesome. Thankfully this time round the motor is running 100% - I've put 6,500km on it since the start of October (yes, as in 6 weeks ago) and probably a touch under 100 hours running time, pulling 15/38 gearing, speeds between 10-125km/h loaded up with all my gear (we're self-supported, carrying all food/water/camping gear etc). Rode it to the tip of Australia with no issues, hopefully the remaining 15,000km goes as smoothly
  3. XR Pilot

    XR400 - 440 kit long term longevity

    Yes, I personally don't think it is enough of a drop to be worth while unless your splitting the cases for another reason. I also hear you on loving simplicity, I've tried to build and wire my bike up in such a way that it is still simple to work on even with the electric start. I have the battery mounted in a box on the left hand side of the subframe opposite the exhaust and my XR is street registered so it has indicators, a tail light and brake light and I can still remove the exhaust and subframe in well under 5 minutes. For what it's worth I do the majority of my riding on 15/40 gearing and I can cruise at 70mph in a headwind without too much trouble. I swap to a 13T for tighter riding which is equivalent to 15/46 gearing, and I don't think I want to go any lower as I'm not sure I could hang onto the bars.. Maybe a bump in capacity is what you need instead?
  4. XR Pilot

    XR400 - 440 kit long term longevity

    Forgot to mention that in my first post. Mine is a 1997 and I used a bottom end from a low hours '03 for piece of mind. The shaft is 18mm vs 17mm on the clutch side of the engine (internally) where the kick starter idler gear sits. On high comp motors apparently they used to shear off the part of the shaft that the idler runs on, starting technique has a lot to do with it. I went through a spreadsheet in my old files (from 2006!) that compares 400EX to XR400 gearing. Assuming an 8000rpm shift point your 16/42 gearing will give 33mph in 1st and 48mph in 2nd, swapping to 400EX 1st and 2nd gears will give you 30mph/45mph. To make this thread a bit more informative would those that are running a 440 kit like to post what carb they are running, jetting and what cam? Mine is 11:1 compression on a stage 3 Hotcam, Mikuni BSR42 currently on 50 pilot/205 main jet with a modified airbox, needle in the 2nd clip position from top. For my style of riding I think this cam is close to spot on, power from idle to red line.
  5. XR Pilot

    Bsr42 won't start

    I'm fairly certain the starter jet is a 42.5 jet as fitted by Polaris. If you indeed have a 25 starter jet then that could possibly be your problem. It might also be worth trying a larger pilot jet, 47.5 is the smallest I know of anyone using so far.
  6. XR Pilot

    BSR42 carb spacer

    As above, I'll take one posted to Australia.
  7. XR Pilot

    XR400 - 440 kit long term longevity

    BTR - I usually work on a similar line of thinking, it just helped keep track on this motor due to the large amount of riding it has covered in such a short time. For guys that ride every fortnight you'd need to be out for 10 hours every weekend to clock up the same. Your posts were some of the few that actually convinced me to stick with a 440 and go with a BSR42 by the way - and I definitely don't regret it YHGEORGE - This might open up a massive can of worms but this motor has spent >95% of it's life on semi-synthetic car oil. I personally haven't had any problems (make sure you stay away from energy-conserving oils with friction modifiers). I think they are Australian-brands but I have used both Gulf Western Oil and Nulon semi synthetic 15-40 or 15/50 with success. My oil change interval also varies, if I have done predominately road riding in winter I'll change the oil out at 1500km-ish (~950 miles) but in summer when it's 42 degrees here (108 deg Fahrenheit) and I'm doing a lot of trail riding I'll drop the change interval down to 300km or so for piece of mind (~200 miles). I'm of the mind that I'd rather use slightly cheaper oil and change it far more often, and with the amount of kilometres I have covered using full synthetic oils changed often would have cost a hefty amount. michigan400 - It would have been more if I didn't have a bit of down time waiting for parts - there was probably a total of 10 weeks or so all up when the bike was out of action. The seat is a stock seat base and foam with an eBay gripper seat cover. Not as bad as an early KTM seat but it's pretty damn firm!
  8. I've seen this topic pop up a few times, so I thought I would share my findings. Just over 12 months ago I finished off my 440-kitted XR400 that was fitted with brand-new Kibblewhite valve springs, titanium retainers, Wiseco/Hot-rods 400EX crankshaft (love the electric start!), Kibblewhite black diamond valves (standard size) and a stage 3 Hotcam. I used a 4-play 440 kit from eBay that came with a pre-bored cylinder, a Wiseco 11:1 89mm piston and a Cometic gasket set. I had the head reconditioned and fitted with new stem seals and springs at my local machine shop. The head had a very slight mark from the head gasket firing ring so it was skimmed 5 thou, media blasted to clean it up, valve seats recut and then reassembled. Aside from this I did the rest of the assembly myself on my bench, following the workshop manual instructions for setting up the stud heights in the cylinder. I reused my old studs and rockers on the new assembly. I then got the motor running, eventually swapped over to a Mikuni BSR42 and took it out hard trail riding and commuting on the bike as my sole transport for the last 12 months. I have clocked up 260 hours/12,000km on the XR in that time, doing anything from very tight trails banging the bars off trees to hours on end sitting at 110-115km/h (70mph). I average about 5L per 100km (47mpg) with mixed riding as a commuter. In that time the bike was severely overheated once on the trail from hell (we managed 2km in 4 hours), to the point where the oil started to burn and smoke out the breather. It was quite down on compression after that, it turns out it had a partially blown head gasket. It still pulled very hard though! Which brings us to now. These photos are after the head and piston went back into the machine shop for a clean up. Unfortunately I don't have any before pictures due to time constraints except the first one (I am in the process of moving whilst rebuilding the XR). The piston has had a light buff on a wire wheel to remove carbon, the head has been stripped, valve seats recut (they were showing wear - to be expected after 260 hours of use. Especially considering it spent a lot of time >8000rpm!), new stem seals fitted and bead blasted once again. The bore has been honed and was found to be 2 thou out of round. This is somewhat to be expected given how severely it was overheated. Total cost to bring this motor back up to spec was $250AUD including all machine work & a set of rings and it's ready to go for it's next big trip - a 20,000km trip around Australia If anyone has any questions regarding building a 440, the electric start conversion or otherwise I'll be happy to help. I'll hopefully have some photos & video of the bike up soon once it has been edited. Night and day difference between a stock XR! Camshaft is showing a little discolouration but has no scoring or gouges that can be felt by hand - I was expecting more wear than this. 260 hour old piston. Broken in hard! Note: Piston has had a clean before this photo but the skirts are un-touched. Top of the piston after a quick de-carbon. It will be replaced at next tear down. Piston has some marks from blow-by past the rings but isn't showing any signs of fracturing or scoring. Reassembled for round two Head cleaned up and ready to refit. I have no idea why one of the valves is a different colour either - it's how I got them from Kibblewhite. So there you have it - 12,000km/260 hours in 12 months. $250AUD and it's ready to rock again. Aside from replacing 2 sets of friction plates I have not had to touch the motor aside from normal maintenance.
  9. XR Pilot

    Re-jet after punching cylinder?

    FWIW, this piston is from my Wiseco-kitted XR440 and was run in using the ride-it-like-it's-stolen technique. The piston was given a light clean and has 260 hours on it, the photo shows it with fresh rings before it is going back in the bike.
  10. XR Pilot

    2007 XR400M advice on parts and mods?

    That's a clean looking bike! What state are you in? I'm guessing not Victoria based on the temperature. I'm in NSW. Your airbox sounds like a stock XR400 airbox. They use a spring-steel style retaining clip that locates in a dent (for lack of a better word) in the centre of the air filter, with the clip hooking over the airbox near the airbox door. If that sounds like yours then a UNI filter is the best bet as Trailryder said, it comes with a replacement air filter cage which you'll be needing. As far as jetting goes, a 62 pilot and 162 main jet would probably be a good starting point but some of the other guys might have a better idea than me. It's worth noting that some of the EPA/heavily restricted XR models (such as the California-sold bikes) have really lean needles fitted in the carbs from the factory floor too - I don't know if XR400M's had this setup but if they do then you'll want a stock 96-97 model needle to replace yours and set it in the 2nd clip position from the top as a starting point. Aside from that, how fast do you want to spend? If you want to go a fair bit faster a carb swap is a starting point, you can go with a pumper style carb or a Mikuni BSR42 also works quite well (what I have on my bike). Then you get into big bore kits, cam swaps etc.
  11. XR Pilot

    Edison approach to alerantive XR400 carbs

    Mudguy - If you are able to make a few I'd be interested in an adapter as well, happy to pay. I've kind of got the hang of refitting the airbox now but it's the one thing I don't like about the BSR42. I figured I'd finally post my experiences with this carb in here as well - I've had mine fitted for around 6 months but I haven't been quite 100% happy with it until now so I held off on posting. Mine is on a 440cc 11:1 compression motor with a stage 3 hot cam, wiseco 400ex crank, kibble white stainless valves, titanium retainers etc and I swapped over from a stock carb - WOW! It's a completely different bike, throttle response is much sharper and it's opened up the top end massively. I'm riding close to sea level and I've cut the top of the airbox open quite a bit which made a large difference - I haven't dynoed the bike since opening the airbox up but opening the airbox door with a stock airbox made a 4-5hp difference on the dyno with the mixtures going very lean. Jetting at the moment is currently: -50 pilot -205 main. Originally 195 main, this jetting was close to spot on with an uncut airbox (13-13.5:1 AFR on a dyno) but once I cut the airbox it was far too lean. -Stock needle in the 2nd clip position from the top (I had an aftermarket needle in the carb originally from when I bought it, far too rich in the mid range!) -Stock starter jet -Fuel screw is 2-ish turns out at the moment and requires further fiddling, I didn't have time on the last ride to adjust it. Cold starts are fine, on a 3 degree Celsius morning it started up 2nd kick using the choke. Hot restarts are currently a pain in the arse, I haven't been able to get it sorted yet but I'm going to wait until I freshen the motor up this week before fiddling further as it's down on compression.
  12. XR Pilot

    Switch to mikuni BSR42

    The threaded section where it screws into the carb is different as is the end on the cable, the BSR42 uses a much smaller cable end than the stock carb. You might be able to adapt something but I don't like your chances. I thought fitting a CV carb to an enduro bike was a strange idea at first too, then I actually tried a BSR42 on my XR440 and I was pleasantly suprised. I'm definitely not lacking in top end power, I've got good usable power right up to 9000rpm and I've done just over 96mph with more to go before chickening out so I'm not short on horsepower either with the CV
  13. XR Pilot

    Subframe swap xr 400

    It's really simple, I've had mine on and off countless times. Remove the 2x 12mm bolts holding the seat on, take the side panels off (2x allen head bolts, 4mm from memory), unbolt your muffler (2x 12mm bolts from memory) from the subframe, remove the bolts holding the airbox to the subframe (10mm x 3 ?) and leave it connected to the carb. Remove the 2x 5 or 6mm allen head bolts that bolt the bottom of the subframe to the frame, one on each side, make sure your tail light wiring is disconnected and finally remove the long 12mm bolt that bolts the subframe to the frame near the tank. Pull the subframe off, and swap the new one on, reverse the procedure and swap your rear guard (4 bolts, two near the tail light on top and 2 on the side near where the side panels sit) and swap your upper chain slider if your replacement subframe doesn't have one. Should take about 15-20 minutes as long as the previous owner hasn't rounded off any bolts New bolts can be purchased through Honda (for the allen-head bolts, some are specific) and the flange headed bolts can be purchased through a bolt supply shop or through Honda. Should cost you $20 or so at the absolute most.
  14. XR Pilot

    440 vs 426

    I'll be posting a build thread eventually with details but just weighing in with my 2 cents. My XR has an 11:1 compression 440 wiseco kit in it and it has been nothing but reliable and I dare say I do more riding than the majority here - I've put 11000km (~6800 miles) on it in 9 months with nothing but regular maintenance and a few clutch plates. I haven't had any head gasket problems. It's getting a bit low on compression now (not blowing smoke however) so I'll be freshening it up soon, I'll be posting photos on tear down. I haven't ridden a 426 to compare but my 440 with a BSR42 is pretty rev happy, I've got usable power right up to 9000rpm (power curve doesn't peak until about 8400-8500 from memory) and it gets there pretty quick. I personally wouldn't build a 440 or a 426 on an early motor due to the weaker countershaft, 2nd gear and kick start shaft. The 2nd gear fix may have been done in 1998 but I can't remember exactly. The revised parts can be fitted to an early bottom end without much trouble.
  15. XR Pilot

    XR250/400 Wiring help needed badly!

    The CDI charging coil and pulse generator/exciter coil are separate to the lighting coils, so yes no worries there. I've had mine running on both an XR400 and 400EX cdi, no problems. I'm using an Electrosport G443 stator and a Honda CBR600F4 mosfet-style regulator and an 8 cell Anti-Gravity battery mounted opposite the exhaust off the subframe. Battery weighs 710 grams/1lb 9oz