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Gandoolf

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About Gandoolf

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  1. Gandoolf

    XR350 unusual clutch problem

    Thanks for the response. It never worked when I had it running and warm, I'm not as concerned about the plates being warped, I used minimal force, with the force I put on them I don't think it'd have damaged them, but hey, I'm not an expert and you could be right. I think it might have even just been the sludge sticking them together. I'll check for notches once I get it all apart. The sludge isn't anywhere but the clutch plates, it's not even on the basket it's self, I'm not sure what would've caused it but I will check for oil flow up top. Thanks again for the reply!
  2. Gandoolf

    XR350 unusual clutch problem

    I'm not sure, that could be the case, I wouldn't he surprised. There have been many stripped and broken bolts and parts have been assembled incorrectly so I wouldn't be surprised. I'll take a look at it today and count the number of plates.
  3. Gandoolf

    XR350 unusual clutch problem

    Thanks so much for the info, when I first got the bike my uncle felt the clutch and told me that there had to be something assembled incorrectly. Thanks again for the insight!
  4. I've had this '84 xr350 for over a year now and I still haven't ridden it. I've had a myriad of issues with it and after I've fixed the clutch I think it'll be in riding condition. This bike has had a rough life and the people who have worked on it haven't exactly been kind to it, or maybe they just had no idea what they were doing. The issues with the clutch have been there the whole time I've owned it. At first the clutch was extremely difficult to pull in, it wouldn't budge after the free play in the lever. I cleaned out the cable and still had the same issue. I drained the oil and took the case cover off and took a look at the basket, the plates were all stuck together and seem to be covered in a thick brown sludge, I carefully separated them using a flat aluminium bar. I took off the spring retainer and the springs and found that the inner part of the basket was fused to the outer part, I worked at them until they spun separately, they're still quite tough to spin though. I saw that the main nut holding the clutch assembly together has some dings in it and there's even a corner of it broken off. I don't have a 27mm socket so I can't take it off and fully disassemble the clutch right now. I put the springs back on and tightened them down with the retainer and noticed that if it's all snugged up the springs are almost completely compressed and once I replaced the side cover there was freeplay through the whole clutch until the end where it's really hard to pull and only has a tiny bit of movement and the clutch wouldn't engage. I took it all apart again and loosened the spring retainer so the springs weren't so compressed and put it back together, the clutch felt far better, like a normal clutch, it still didn't engage though. I'm at a bit of a loss. Do I have the wrong springs in there? maybe there are supposed to be spacers so the bolts don't clamp the springs down as far? Has anyone else had similar issues? Note- I posted this earlier in the xr250 and 400 forum but I was recommended to post over here.
  5. Gandoolf

    Unusual clutch problem

    Thanks, I think it's all together correctly. Although there have been some things put together incorrectly on this bike before, hopefully I'll be able to borrow a 27mm socket to take it apart. I'll post on the vintage part too. Thanks again.
  6. Gandoolf

    Unusual clutch problem

    I've had this '84 xr350 for over a year now and I still haven't ridden it. I've had a myriad of issues with it and after I've fixed the clutch I think it'll be in riding condition. This bike has had a rough life and the people who have worked on it haven't exactly been kind to it, or maybe they just had no idea what they were doing. The issues with the clutch have been there the whole time I've owned it. At first the clutch was extremely difficult to pull in, it wouldn't budge after the free play in the lever. I cleaned out the cable and still had the same issue. I drained the oil and took the case cover off and took a look at the basket, the plates were all stuck together and seem to be covered in a thick brown sludge, I carefully separated them using a flat aluminium bar. I took off the spring retainer and the springs and found that the inner part of the basket was fused to the outer part, I worked at them until they spun separately, they're still quite tough to spin though. I saw that the main nut holding the clutch assembly together has some dings in it and there's even a corner of it broken off. I don't have a 27mm socket so I can't take it off and fully disassemble the clutch right now. I put the springs back on and tightened them down with the retainer and noticed that if it's all snugged up the springs are almost completely compressed and once I replaced the side cover there was freeplay through the whole clutch until the end where it's really hard to pull and only has a tiny bit of movement and the clutch wouldn't engage. I took it all apart again and loosened the spring retainer so the springs weren't so compressed and put it back together, the clutch felt far better, like a normal clutch, it still didn't engage though. I'm at a bit of a loss. Do I have the wrong springs in there? maybe there are supposed to be spacers so the bolts don't clamp the springs down as far? Has anyone else had similar issues?
  7. So I figured this one out quite a while ago. It was a bit of a forehead slapping moment, I had the idle screw (the one that holds the throttle slide open) set incorrectly. It was completely closed. After fixing it up the thing ran perfectly and idled nice and low.
  8. So I've worked on this bike a little this spring and I'm just getting back into it, I didn't touch it all winter. I'm still having the same issues, I sealed up the carb caps and the cutoff valve, I took the carb apart down to the carb bodies and had it (badly) soaked and blown out, I feel as though the carb is completely clean but I don't have compressed air to blow through it. I've found a place with a sonic cleaner, would that be a good option? or should I just take it to my uncles place so he can look at it? (he has over 40 years of experience with motorcycles including an xr like mine) Do you have any other thoughts as to what it could be if it's not the carb? The boots seem to be in really good cond, the airbox has holes cut out in it and the exhaust has a massive amount of leakage (it might as well not have a muffler).
  9. I think our carbs are slightly different but I still found the spot to block it up. I blocked the hole with some fuel line that I cut up, you can see it in my attached photo. I put it all back together and it's still running lean and won't run without the choke, it started a lot easier and will idle for a short time on half choke, not happily though. it stumbles a lot when it's on half coke, like it's misfiring or something. There is also a massive exhaust leak coming from the join between the header pipe and the muffler, it's just sitting together, there's nothing tightening and holding them together.
  10. So I checked the valve, it's got a small hole in it, how would I go about bypassing it? I also installed a new air filter and fuel line, it idles slightly better now, I made sure that the pilot jet and the lines leading up to it are clear. the only problem I can see is the diaphragm being faulty, I also noticed that the air box isn't seating well on the carb, so there may be extra air coming in there.
  11. I just had a look at those cracks and blew air through the intake and blocked the other end and there was a slight leak, I blew from the other side and there was a fairly decent leak. I just checked an I can get an air cut diaphragm for 30 usd from xr's only, seems pretty steep for a little bit of rubber. I figured I'll check the diaphragm I have now, it's on the secondary carb isn't it?
  12. Yeah, you're right, it's separate. I suppose I'll cover up those cracks in the plastic caps and see if that makes a difference to how it runs otherwise it could be the plastic intake carb insulator (it goes between the engine and the carb), not sure what it's called but it looks a little ratty around the edges.
  13. I wonder why they made these from plastic, it seems like metal would be a better choice. I have some araldite epoxy laying around, I know it doesn't go well with petrol but I don't think there'd be much getting to it since it'd be outside the carb. I know that original Honda replacements are really expensive, I think I saw $200 on a parts list, hopefully I'll be able to find some online. I noticed that one of the bolt holes holding the valve cover in is completely stripped out and the bolt could just fall out, could that be causing an air leak? all of the other bolts are fine and it seems to be held down pretty securely.
  14. They're these ones here. you can't really see well in the photo but there are some small cracks just above the bolt holes. they're very thin but they go all the way through to the other side. is there anything I can do to seal them up? I'm also missing the side plastics, apparently that could also lead to it running lean because the air box lets too much air in.
  15. I took the carb off and took it apart, all the jets were clean and debris free, there was plenty of fuel in the bowl and there were traces of fuel on the motor side of the carbie. I did however find a spot that there could be an air leak, both of the plastic caps on the top of the carb that cover up the slides have cracks in them, would that cause a problem? I also noticed that when the twist throttle is disconnected from the carb when closed/very slightly twisted it binds up a little, it feels like it's enough to stop the carb closing off fully.
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