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About mferring1

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    New Mexico
  1. Have a 2017 500 RR-S. Live in NM mountains and routinely ride above 8000 ft. Replaced my hoses and deleted thermostat when I had the typical coolant leak from the thermostat. Then went to Colorado in early Oct and rode at high altitude (10-13000 ft). In my opinion the bike did not run as well, took forever to warm up (temps in 30s and 40s), and ran much cooler than what I was used to. Also, when I ride in NM, temps vary greatly during the day. So I put the thermostat back on and feel the bike runs more consistently. I also had a terrible flameout and idle problem in Colorado, even after attempting to reset by idling for a long periods after start without touching the throttle. May be completely unrelated, but haven't had any idle or flameout issues after putting the thermostat back on. I know a lot of folks run with no thermostat just fine. Probably would work great at lower altitudes, more temperate and consistent temperature climate, etc. Mine seems to be happier with it. Just waiting for this one to leak though.......
  2. That was basically the logic I used to put the thermostat back on after riding in the 30s.
  3. I have a 2017 500 RR-S and used the Clake for several months. I went back to the stock unit after. As the Kran mentioned, I found it difficult to find the friction sound for modulation. This is after trying many different force combinations using the adjustment wheel. It just felt kind of mushy rather than the really crisp and wide actuation range I feel with the stocker. Also, and this may have been an installation screwup by yours truly, but riding some really hard trails in Colorado, the clutch kind of locked up partially engaged and I had to physically push on the Clake lever to open it back up. Never had that issue with the stock unit. This was after around 20 minutes of almost constant slipping though. I moved the stock unit to the right and now am completely comfortable actuating it via 1 or 2 fingers. Might try the Clake again some time, make sure is properly bled, etc. It sure is a piece of clever engineering. But for now am happier with the stock unit.
  4. Thanks much guys. I am running the regular sidewall as well. I believe the 120 will be the way go. Appreciate the help!
  5. Well, I think I did the passive reset thing during the Co trip, but I was only vaguely aware of it then. Possibly I did not perform it properly. I do it now as I read quite a bit about the idle and flame out issue after that trip. Hopefully we will be going back again either this year or next and I will try it out again.
  6. Hey Ben, I will be riding this weekend in cold temps and will check. Also, I rode in Colorado last Sept right after a cold front and it was really cold. I had removed the thermostat and had some issues with keeping the engine running and getting the temps up to normal before I started riding that I had not noticed before removing the thermostat. Lso had lots of flameouts and odd idle. This was also at extremely high altitudes well above 10000 ft so that may have been a factor. Although I know that some will say that my flame out issues and weird idle problems were unrelated and more likely due to altitude, I decided to put the thermostat back in the system so that temps were more tightly regulated, and that via the thermostat radiator bypass would allow much quicker warmup of the engine in cold temps. Don't know if this relates at all to what you were asking, but thought I would relay one of my experiences and perhaps faulty logic and what I did to rectify. Mark
  7. Ok my source of much wisdom, I have one of the ever debatable tire questions. So I am going to get another AT81 for the rear of my 17 500 RR-S. I note that the 110/90-18 is more than an inch smaller in diameter than the 120. (26.14 vs 27.32 in per the Dunlop site) I have used the 120 in the past and like it, but wonder if there are any downsides to using a rear tire that much lower. The attractive thing of course is it lowers the bike and makes it a bit easier to ride some of these gnarly rock strewn trails of New Mexico. I am mostly interested in how it might affect the dynamics of the bike to have the rear lower like that. I have had the shocks and forks revalved by Stillwell in Phoenix with specific directions by them as to how low to adjust the front fork location. So I am reluctant to lower the front to match the rear. So what are your opinions folks? Should I stick with the 120? If get the 110, should I lower the front a 1/2 in to match the rear reduction, other things I am too ignorant to know.......etc..... As always, many thanks for your inputs.
  8. Just to jump on the boat.....another vote for Stillwell Performance out of Phoenix. I am an older guy (61) getting back into dirt biking after 40 years from my youth. Got a 17 500 RS which I love, but both the shock and forks were way to stiff for the gnarly rock trails in the New Mexico mountains. Told the Stillwill guys that I want it plush for hitting lots of rocks of many various sizes but don't want to lose the stability at speed. Also, not to make it impossible, I don't race, do MX track stuff....pretty much trails and fast fire roads. In my opinion, they really nailed it. Bike is so much more controllable and safe now. Used to throw my all over the place when I hit stair step rocks. Now it eats up everything. YMMV, but I liked them. Not supercheap, but something like $700. I was able to take them there since I am helping my elderly parents in Phoenix, so no shipping charges. Plus, great to talk to them at their shop both prior to the work and after they made the adjustments.
  9. Just to close this out. I finally had a chance to mess with my fuel QD from the tank. Chatted with my dealer and he told me he always sprays both sides of the connector with triflow prior to reconnect. I did that, basically got a better connection, and now no more fuel leak. Glad it was simple. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
  10. Thanks guys. Appreciate the thoughts and insights surfer dude. I run 13-48 and it feels exactly as you say. I must say I can climb just about anything with it and as you say, the power is easy to put down. My friends KTM 350 will out accelerate me a bit on a road, but I consistently get to the top of gnarly trails before him (part traction, part KTM flameouts!). I will check the QD again. I will let you know if that was the culprit. Will wait a few days for it to warm up. Finally had some snow last night!
  11. One other quick question (probably unrelated). My version of the 500 is very strong at the low end of the RPM range. But it kind of peters out at the upper RPM range. I thought it would come on stronger at the top end. I tend to short shift since there is no advantage for revving it out in terms of power and acceleration. In the back of my mind, especially with this fuel leak, I am wondering whether this is typical, or whether I have a fuel flow or some other problem reducing the higher RPM performance from what it should be? Thoughts?
  12. So I had not ridden for several months during the winter here in NM (not much of a winter though). Decided to make some handlebar height adjustments and went out for a short ride today to evaluate. Came back after just about 5-10 minutes and I smelled gas pulling into the shop. Switched off and I saw dripping fuel. Further inspection showed fuel all over the injector and then dripping down the engine. I do have the 4 gal IMS tank and have removed and reinstalled many times. I checked the quick disconnect fuel connector and it seemed to be fully closed. It was a little wet, but my first impression is that the leak was not from there. I will pull the tank, do some visual inspections to see if it is coming from the tank and then reconnect it loosely with some slack so I can observe the interior area while I fire it up briefly to see if I can determine where the leak is. It was not leaking prior to the ride, so it is either related to a pressurized fuel system or riding jostled something loose. Knowing you clever Beta guys, thought you might have some thoughts/advice/historical experiences with fuel leaks/etc that might help me before I dig in. Also, I am still under warranty, and luckily have the Beta dealer 40 minutes away. So if it does not appear to be the tank that I installed, I will take it to him! Appreciate any advise guys. Mark
  13. I reverse bled the Clake system again today. Will switch back to Motul Transoil Expert for the gearbox, and will work on the 2nd to neutral technique! We will see. It did not work at all during my trip, but I wasn't working on the 2nd to neutral very diligently.
  14. Thanks for all the replies folks. Appreciate the info. Sounds like it is mostly a "feature" of our bikes. I have been using Maxima Pro Plus synthetic oil. Any thoughts that using a different oil in the gearbox side may be better for smoother shifting and getting into neutral a bit easier.....or will it not really matter. Bummer that the 18 clutch won't retrofit.
  15. Hi guys. Just spent 8 days in Durango and Gunnison. Except for the snow, it was really awesome! Guess we got there a little late. This was the first long trip with the Italian Princess (2017 500 RR-S). I had an odd experience with shifting that I will relate, and hopefully you have some thoughts or advice. I will say that I have a Clake One Light clutch installed. Also, my dealer opted to run my hydraulic clutch line up the side of the engine under my 4g IMS tank to allow enough slack with my 2 in Rox Risers. He did add some heat shielding on the line). While he was doing this, I assume he removed the clutch line from the Clake. I do not know whether he followed the Clake very specific procedure for reverse bleeding of the line. So here is what happens. As soon as I start up, the gears shift smoothly and I can get into neutral with the engine running. Then after running a bit (I assume because it the engine and clutch line have heated up), It starts to get more difficult to shift gears smoothly (the feeling is that there is preload pushing the gears together). And when I try to shift to neutral, either slowly moving or completely stopped, I simply cannot do so. It feels like the clutch may be still partially engaged putting some preload on the gears. I will say that immediately after shutting the engine off, it is very easy to get into neutral. Hence, my theory that the clutch is still slightly engaged. Any thoughts from you smart/experienced guys? I plan to redo the Clake reverse bleed procedure in a few days. If this persists, I may consider buying a longer clutch line and routing it behind the engine as per OEM. Also, my dealer says it could be what he called hydraulic lock and suggested removing a bit of fluid from the clutch master reservoir. Appreciate any thoughts guys. Mark