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About mferring1

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    New Mexico
  1. I reverse bled the Clake system again today. Will switch back to Motul Transoil Expert for the gearbox, and will work on the 2nd to neutral technique! We will see. It did not work at all during my trip, but I wasn't working on the 2nd to neutral very diligently.
  2. Thanks for all the replies folks. Appreciate the info. Sounds like it is mostly a "feature" of our bikes. I have been using Maxima Pro Plus synthetic oil. Any thoughts that using a different oil in the gearbox side may be better for smoother shifting and getting into neutral a bit easier.....or will it not really matter. Bummer that the 18 clutch won't retrofit.
  3. Hi guys. Just spent 8 days in Durango and Gunnison. Except for the snow, it was really awesome! Guess we got there a little late. This was the first long trip with the Italian Princess (2017 500 RR-S). I had an odd experience with shifting that I will relate, and hopefully you have some thoughts or advice. I will say that I have a Clake One Light clutch installed. Also, my dealer opted to run my hydraulic clutch line up the side of the engine under my 4g IMS tank to allow enough slack with my 2 in Rox Risers. He did add some heat shielding on the line). While he was doing this, I assume he removed the clutch line from the Clake. I do not know whether he followed the Clake very specific procedure for reverse bleeding of the line. So here is what happens. As soon as I start up, the gears shift smoothly and I can get into neutral with the engine running. Then after running a bit (I assume because it the engine and clutch line have heated up), It starts to get more difficult to shift gears smoothly (the feeling is that there is preload pushing the gears together). And when I try to shift to neutral, either slowly moving or completely stopped, I simply cannot do so. It feels like the clutch may be still partially engaged putting some preload on the gears. I will say that immediately after shutting the engine off, it is very easy to get into neutral. Hence, my theory that the clutch is still slightly engaged. Any thoughts from you smart/experienced guys? I plan to redo the Clake reverse bleed procedure in a few days. If this persists, I may consider buying a longer clutch line and routing it behind the engine as per OEM. Also, my dealer says it could be what he called hydraulic lock and suggested removing a bit of fluid from the clutch master reservoir. Appreciate any thoughts guys. Mark
  4. One other observation. I find that since I put on the AT81, that I notice a more plush feel from the rear when I hit rocks and sharp outcroppings. I guess Dunlop's advertising regarding this characteristic is true.... From their website: Dunlop’s “plush pad” recess design between tread blocks enhances compliance for bump absorption and ride comfort.
  5. Sure. Here are a few of the 120/90/18. AT81. I find the different manufacturer sizes to not always relate to each other. For example, I think the 120/90 AT81 is very similar in height and width as the 140/80 OEM tire.
  6. Thanks for the comments folks. Much appreciated. I will consider them all. The Kran your comments are very interesting as always. Since I think I will be running AT81's now exclusively, hopefully I will be able to get the feel of them like you can. I like the idea of that approach. The tubes I currently have installed are 3mm.
  7. I know this has probably been beaten to death, but wanted some opinions from you other 500 RR-S riders. Going to Colorado in the next few days for a week of long rides. Was wondering what you folks think is an OK minimum pressure to run the rear tire at (using HD tube only. Brand new Dunlop AT81 120/90) for increased traction, but with little risk of a pinch flat (which I really don't want on the trail). I have been running at 15 psi rear which seems to work pretty well for me in the mountains of NM. But I have to say I probably haven't done any truly gnarly loose rock hills. Maybe I need to do the tubliss thing on the rear. Don't know why I am avoiding it. Anyhoo, appreciate your thoughts on this.
  8. I just installed one on my 500 RR-S. I have 3 rides under my belt since then. I feel it is has a pretty wide engagement for me actually. Will be going to Colorado in 2 days for a week of long rides so we will see.
  9. Thanks guys. The Sedona 907 sure has an interesting tread pattern. Fun to have something unusual! And good price. Ben, I had heard many good things about the Scorpion Pro as well as that it also is DOT rated. However, me being the retired cheapskate that I am, I am having a hard time ponying up $40-60 more bucks for a pair over other well regarded tires like the Dunlop AT81 (which I know is not street legal). So I have installed the AT81 and now have run it along with the OEM front tire on several rides. Seems really good so far. I will really put it to the test in Colorado next week (week long trail riding trip!). AT81 even seems more stable on the road than the OEM Michelin. However, I always ride extremely conservative with these dirt bike tires on the road. No big lean angles, slow stopping, and generally stay below 65 mph. Appreciate the thoughts. Interesting on the G2 quick throttle. I have the G2 Dirt Tamer that if you order directly from G2 they have a Beta 500 RR-S specific cam profile. I really dig the ability to ration power on gnarly trails instead of having the big dog get me in trouble by laying down to much power when I really don't want it! One other note for me. I had the engine map switch installed and I eventually took it off. Always had it in the "dry" mode anyway. Now that I have the outstanding Aussie Clake Clutch One installed, I can meter out power in micro increments. That Clake clutch is unbelievably cool. Amazing to me that something like this is not really catching on in the industry for trail riding.
  10. Hey, Ben, just curious. What tires are you running? I just replaced my OEM rear with a 120/90 Dunlop AT81. Going to Co Durango and Gunnison area on Sunday, so I should be able to tell how good this tire is. Reviews look good. I was actually pretty pleased with the OEM tires, but they aren't available in the US. I also got the 110/90 AT81 as it was 1 in smaller in diameter than the 120. However, it just looked to "puny" and I could not put it on for my Co trip! Ha! I will try it in my home NM mountain area after the winter to see what I think. Will be nice to be even lower, as long as the traction remains good. I can still almost flat foot the 120 with full tread, so I will likely stay with the 120 as a long term option. I also thought about the Michelin Starcross, but the Dunlop had a rebate...and being the cheapskate I am.........ha again!
  11. Thanks Motoxgiant. I did use that this time, but don't think I will for future clearance checks. I do think I will use it for shim changes though to ensure I don't screw up the timing.
  12. Yeah, me too. Amazing how little I use the upper rev range....especially after the experience on my WR250R where you are "always" in the upper rev range! I find I can spin my rear tire in almost any gear with the torque from this monster. Really fun. Other thing I did that has made this bike perfect for me is to get it revalved for the really rocky slow going situation we have in the mountains of New Mexico. Even with backing off all the adjusters, I got tossed around alot that caused me to reduce my confidence in doing our fairly gnarly trails around here. My dealer recommended the revalve (used Stillwell Performance in Phoenix) as he is a racer and rider here and really knows these bikes. Since the revalve (also reduced spring rate in front), the bike is really transformed. I can now crawl or fly over these heavily rocked trails with complete confidence. I weigh about 185 so I was hoping that the stock setup would be good for me. No so for our conditions. It would have probably been pretty good if it wasn't so rocky.
  13. This was at my first 30 hrs. And all were in spec. Intake were a little tight. Both left and right were between .1 and .13. Spec is .1 to .175. So I will have to watch that. Exhaust were right in the middle. Both left and right around .15. Spec is .125 to .2. Dealer told me that in his experience, the Betas tend to stay in spec for a long time. We will see. Once I worked out my way of sliding the gauges between the cam and follower, it was actually pretty easy. Took me a while to figure it out though. I don't have a lot of experience in this type of engine maintenance, so I really took my time and was very cognizant of trying hard not to screw it up! By the way, I have the narrow tip Bikemaster feeler set.
  14. I also found that taking the throttle cable out of its housing really helped. There is a little strain relief metal piece routing the cable into the spring housing that got in the way. The really tight part is to the rear of the cam cover. I also took off the ignition, but not sure whether that was necessary. Will try without taking that off next time. Also, I had to access the left intake cam lobe from the rear through the frame in order to perform the check. It was blocked from the right and left. Have fun! Took me about 4 hours for the whole darn thing! I believe I can probably do it in about an hour now that I have the first experience.
  15. Thanks Johnny. I had done that too. This helps for actually checking the clearance, but was not a big factor, at least for me, in removing the cam cover. I did take the ignition off which I think did help with the clearance. And boy, sure is "interesting" getting the spark plug out and in! In your guys experience, do you have to pull the plug to do a clearance check? My dealer says that being at absolute TDC is not critical for the clearance check (obviously would be for timing if changing shims and removing the cam chain) as long as the intake valves are close to 45 deg up towards the rear and exhaust valves close to 45 deg up towards the front. From his perspective, this means the cam is at its smallest geometry (far from the actuation lobe) and is good for the clearance check.