High On Octane

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About High On Octane

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  1. Thanks for the specs. I wasn't for sure with a DRZ, was just throwing out general performance guidelines. For what it's worth, I have a 2005 YZ450F with an Athena BB kit, and it is downright ridiculous. Not sure if the PO did cams with the big bore or if they are stock, but now that I have it dialed in and jetted correctly, it is the RAUNCHIEST dirt bike I've ever owned, let alone ridden. Its a 4 speed, and I've only hit 4th gear 3 times, and all 3 times were on pavement. I rarely get out of second to be honest. And it will stand up in any gear without slipping the clutch.
  2. Essentially what you want to do is place a flattened piece of clay about 8mm thick on the dome of the piston, install the head with the stark plug removed, and very carefully and slowly turn the engine by hand until you reach TDC. Then VERY carefully try to turn it past TDC. Don't force it tho. Then remove the head and measure the distance from the deepest indentation in the clay from the valves to the piston, which should be about 3mm roughly. Sounds redundant, but is cheaper than grenading your valves on the first kick if there isn't enough clearance. You should be able to find some "how-to" videos on YouTube about the procedure for more accurate steps.
  3. Cams will have a bigger performance boost than the BB kit itself. But to answer your question directly, if you have the money to spend, I'd do cams as well. You will definitely get the most out of the BB kit with the addition of cams. Keep in mind, if you reduce base gaskets and do cams, you'll like need to do a clay squish test to make sure your valves aren't going to hit the piston. So if you do go that route, make sure you have a couple of head gaskets ready, as the only way to do a proper clay squish test is to torque the head to spec with a head gasket. Once you remove the head to investigate your valve clearance, you will need to replace the head gasket with a new one.
  4. Dang! Did it pop? Looks dry, but definitely did a number on it. My radiator guard was bent up pretty bad after my crash that broke my sternum. I just removed the guard and beat it back into shape with a body hammer and anvil on a bench vice. Hope you're ok.
  5. There are several different reg/rec/capacitor units available. Look into Tympanium and PodTronics. Both are a very simple 12V 4 wire set up that are quite easy to install. Just run your stator wires to yellow wires of the unit, then + and - to your battery terminals. I recommend installing a fuse on the positive wire before the battery just to be safe. If your stator is a 3 wire coil setup, then simply bridge 2 of your stator windings to 1 yellow wire, and the single stator wire to the other yellow wire. I've used both on my 1958 Enfield Indian cafe racer that I converted to 12V from 6V, and also converted the magneto to electronic ignition. The only reason I've gone thru a couple is because I had an alignment issue with my primary case that I wasn't aware of, and the stator kept grounding out. Hope this helps.
  6. I actually do too. I'm on Hampden & Tower. Will hit you up. I should be free to ride next weekend Sunday or Monday.
  7. I do. I should be done around noon, but supposed to go to the gym with my wife around 2:30 too. Plus I still haven't gotten around to getting trail stickers this year and kind of pointless now. Been riding at Jewell for the most part. I do. I should be done around noon, but supposed to go to the gym with my wife around 2:30 too. Plus I still haven't gotten around to getting trail stickers this year and kind of pointless now. Been riding at Jewell for the most part.
  8. I really want to ride today, as my ride got cut short 2 weeks ago when I put my kick starter into my calf muscle. But, alas, I have to work a half day today to get caught up on paper work.
  9. Got ya. Didn't realize they put titanium inside the motor too. Dang. Now I'm sketched out about what my valves look like. How often do these valves break? I'm not a fan of titanium valves except in all out race applications where the reduced weight counts.
  10. As mentioned, valve seats are cut. Usually if you go with aftermarket valves you have to cut new seats to match the profile of the valve head. If you go factory valves, depending on what the seats look like, you could possibly get away just lapping. Just all depends on what the head looks like and what route you go.
  11. It's like a bunch of old hens cackling in here! LoL. Yamaha has made the most reliable bikes (street and dirt) with the fewest problems for years on end. And they are bullet proof. Can't count the times I've crashed and the only thing I broke was myself. Serious question tho: Why is it when I made a true comment about our "president" on a different thread I got threatened with a lifetime ban for trolling, but someone else can put "trolling" right on the topic name and it grows to 5 pages long in 3 days? I guess I don't have enough friends on here. Haha
  12. It's not very common for a clutch cable to snap on the bottom end. I would check the lower adjuster to make sure it is true with the release lever on the clutch side. If the adjuster is skewed out of true, the cable is probably rubbing on the edge of the lower adjuster tube causing it to fray. I'd take a look there.
  13. From what I understand, it's a pretty technical and involved job. From what I've read, it sounds like you have to replace the crank, stator, rotor and side cover from a WR to do it properly. If I go street legal, I'll be going full LED lighting and sneak a small Li-Ion battery in the air box or something along those lines. Honestly, this is the easiest way to go about it. Incandescent and halogen bulbs have a high energy draw that will drain a battery quickly. LEDs draw about 1/4 of the amps required by traditional bulbs.
  14. I'd say it's time for a new chain, guides and tensioner. Hopefully the tapping noise wasn't your valves bending. Better do a compression test once you get the marks back in spec.