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About TxSamsquanch

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  1. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Starting nightmare

    No worries, and thank you! I've ran into problems with insects and dirt dobbers with my other atv and bikes before lol, but not this time. Oh and I also didn't have to use starter fluid to get it to fire, even though it's freezing temps and its a cold cold motor. 😛
  2. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Starting nightmare

    Update: Did some swapping of carbs and CDIs. His carb and my carb are both "daves mod" and the new carb is OEM stock. His CDI was a cheaper chinese one and my CDI is a the OEM honda. His carb + his CDI = nothing His carb + my CDI = nothing New carb + his CDI = nothing New carb + MY CDI = Works, but doesn't rev (No daves mod: stock) My carb + his CDI = nothing My carb + MY CDI = Starts and runs like it should. 🦄 What was nightmarish for me was back in the summer this bike ran just fine with his carb and his chinese CDI, no issues. Then you let it sit for a while and end up with a headache. Even worse, the chinese CDI was able to start the bike after it had warmed up, but not before and not reliably like the OEM one. So my plan is going to be cannibalize the old carb's Dave's mods to combine with the brand new carb and order up an OEM honda CDI. .... If this thing is still possessed after that then i'm calling an exorcist. Note to those considering chinese CDI's:: They work at first, but could easily crap out on you for like no reason at like any friggin time. The OEM CDI's, while 5x the price are worth it for the reliability.
  3. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Starting nightmare

    Decent compression. around 95-110 psi using my checker. I use the rubber press-on adapter since the spark plug screw in kind have the potential of getting ultra stuck in the XR650... I'm gonna be working on it again today after work so I'll try swapping carbs and rechecking the ignition circuits.
  4. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Starting nightmare

    Only worked with my carb yes. However it didnt start EVERY time... (hence the nightmare part lol) I haven't checked the jetting (Not 100% sure how to do so, everything is complete stock OEM on the new carb.)
  5. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Starting nightmare

    Hey guys, so I've been working on my buddies XR650L for 6 months now. He wanted a front brake and it turned into a complete repair job... (new rotor and new axle; his axle was legit bent.. no clue how he was riding it) After installing all that, it wouldnt start. Electrical was a nightmare, but we finally got consistent spark after re-wiring a new CDI, new pick up coil, new igition coil and new spark plug and cap. His carb has a bad start circuit we couldnt clear so we used the carb off my bike: Boom, started right up. "Gotta be the start circuit with your carb" we thought... So he went and bought a brand new OEM carb. Brand new carb, new coils, new plug, good spark, decent compression, gas and air: Not starting. Double checked the valves and timing. intake @ .10mm and exhaust @ .13mm. I have a couple more things to try.... 1 Swap my carb back to his bike and try again. 2 Combine the new carb with the old to get to "Dave's Mod" status. (But that shouldnt prevent it from starting right? just runs bad without anti-smog BS?) Anyone else ran into this problem or could offer some advice? Brand new carb, fuel, air and spark and not starting... dont make no sense to me. (My XR650L runs great after the help I got from Thumpertalk, so thanks for that!)
  6. TxSamsquanch

    Strip it or as is XR650L

    IMO: Taking it to stock with the tank and muffler and re-selling the AM parts might net a small profit, but would it be worth the hassle of shipping and etc? Windscreen and tank bag could be sold for profit without decreasing the overall value I think. Me personally if I was selling it, I'd sell the bike as is at NADA guide values + 75% cost of AM parts. 2050 miles aint nothing on an 08 and should be a nice bike, or nice ROI. ++It's already ADV ready for your next buyer.
  7. TxSamsquanch

    Starter trouble sanity check

    Have you tried pulling in the clutch while you're starting it? If your neutral switch is out, or stuck open, the electrical system could be reading it as "in gear" when it's actually not. And you have to have the clutch engaged to start it "in gear." Check and recheck all electrical connections, especially when doing a frame up resto. You probably know and have done this stuff, but I forget the basics sometimes too. Also, have you tried to bump start it? Any turn over or sputters? ((I'm not 100% about this, but if the neutral light bulb acts as part of the neutral circuit, and the light bulb is out.. the circuit wouldn't be complete and that may be the issue. Worth testing the light bulb though, just in case all else fails.))
  8. TxSamsquanch

    Starting issues. New battery time?

    Couldn't fit a screw on compression tester in there so I went with rubber tip hand pressure thingy. I knew it was a brand new bore, new rings, newly lapped valves with a good seal so I had compression. Went through testing coils and plugs etc all morning. Good ohms on the coil and plug lead. Voltage to the cdi but none out? Weird no voltage at the coil with the ignition on. Plug out = spark. Plug in = no spark. Lead on separate plug without a plug in the bike = spark. Lead on separate plug with spark plug in the bike = no spark. It was weird. But it works now. Ain't broke, don't fix it. Turned out it was battery not having enough UMPH to turn over that brand newly bored cylinder and overcome all that new machining friction. I tied on another battery and that gave some extra juice and it turned over and started right up. I let it warm up, checked for excess smoking or weird problems; none. Now I'm sitting here listening to it idle like a dream. Changed the oil and pumped all that bad oil I could up out of the crankcase; thick bad black shit. Now it starts just fine off that crappy SuperStart battery I have. But I'm still gonna get a Yuasa in the next couple days.
  9. Hey there, I just rebuilt my engine with help from Mike over at Engine Dynamics with a 10.5:1 compression piston and it seems to be killing my battery. I still have the O'reily's branded "SuperStart" AGM battery from when I bought it and it dies out within 10 seconds of cranking. Voltage on the battery drops to near 8 when cranking (Waaay too low to produce a spark from my experience.) Although I did hear it run for 5 seconds before it died out.. I'm also running a HotCam and have about 120 psi compression I want to put a Lithium battery in there for weight reduction, charge retention and cranking amps for the higher compression ratio. Which one would you choose? 1: $150 Shorai https://shoraipower.com/lfx14a4-bs12-p70 2: $115 WPS http://www.santaclaracycle.com/wpsfelibayt.html 3: $75 Super Cheapo Lithium https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Replaces-YTX9-BS-Motorcycle/dp/B078BCYJF9/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1519399734&sr=1-6&keywords=YTX9-BS+12V+Lithium+Ion+Battery&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011 4: $50 Yuasa AGM http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=B9&vID=3576 I'm leaning towards the WPS due to the price but I'd like to hear from some other guys who are running lithium batteries, or those who have higher compression pistons running on AGM batteries.
  10. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    So I misspoke, or did not inspect my arms diligently. I do have some damage to the rocker arms where they contact the cam shaft. I've got a new hot cams camshaft with maybe 4-10 hours ride time on it. Lobes on the shaft look decent. I'm gonna buy new rocker arms for this rebuild as well, and &%$#@!it, why not new valves. New rocker arms, new cam shaft, new piston, new valves. Damn near gonna rebuild the entire thing. Not worth the $2800 I paid for it... Last time I buy anything from a redneck or good ole boy.
  11. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    I've already sent Engine Dynamics an Email. lol Bout how much am I looking at? Hopefully it'll just be a rebore and not a re-sleeve. She'll be basically brand new after this.
  12. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    They're good, no marrs or scrapes on cam or rocker arms. Didn't drain the oil this time, no need to until I get the piston and cylinder rebuilt. (It's got 2 quarts new oil in there. Ride prior to parking it: *Bike acts like it's seizing up* "Better check the oil,... SHIT... no oil.. Alright 2 quarts in! Vroom Vroom Grind Grind *dead* "Well... load it up in the truck... &%$#@!." The bike had been burning oil since I bought it. Rebuilt the top end and still burnt oil. Didn't check the piston - rookie mistake.
  13. Howdy yall, I finally got around to tearing into my bike and found out why it was acting a fool. That's the bad side of the piston. The other side also had a couple scrapes but not like this. I need a bore job, piston, rings and gaskets me thinks. Is my cylinder even borable? Yes, no? cylinder jug diameter: top: 100.5mm cylinder jug diameter bottom: 100.9mm Piston diamter: 99.75mm I'm assuming it had the stock piston in it so I need to go up in size, just not sure how bad my cylinder is. pictures couldn't get details of the scrapes but when you run a finger nail over it you can feel the grooves. This also helps explain the nonmetallic shavings i found in my oil filter previously. I think Mcma111 has a machine shop out there in cali. Ya'll want a job? lol I'd also like to know what caused the piston to do this. I assume the rings and oil ring compressed too much and failed causing the piston to cant slightly to one side and scrape. I should have taken the jug off when I did the top end earlier this year. Live and learn though.
  14. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Piston Ring Replacement

    Hrmmmm... I replaced the valve seals with brand new OEM ones during the top end rebuild though. If it were the rings would it smoke constantly then?
  15. Hey again, thanks all for helping me get my bike back in order but I might need some more advice. I recently re-did the top end, valves, cam swap etc. and after I got it revived it was smoking on cold starts but stops smoking when the engine gets at operating temp. It's not a TON of smoke, but it is embarrassing when I'm leaving work or a friends house and I have to smoke out the neighborhood before I ride off. My experience with this in the past is oil in the combustion chamber burning. My guess is the piston rings need to be replaced, or it needs a complete bore job. My question is: What are the tolerances for stock rings VS needing to do a bore job? I'm still riding right now until I can get the $ to buy new gaskets and rings and whatever else it may need, so I don't have the diameter of my cylinder or piston at the moment. (Secondary thought: When it did not smoke, prior to top end rebuild, it had very old and viscous oil. When I did the rebuild I did an oil change with fresh oil. Could the thinness of the new oil be enough to seep past the piston rings when the viscous oil wouldn't? Could adding an "oil stabilizer" increase the viscosity and stop the smoking without replacing the rings? Is adding an "oil stabilizer" a bad thing for these bikes; would the extra viscosity overheat the oil because it can't flow properly; could any additives affect the interior of the engine? I'm leaning toward experimenting by thickening the oil first before I spend a chunk of change on rings and gaskets and possibly a bore job.)