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TxSamsquanch

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About TxSamsquanch

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    Texas

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  1. TxSamsquanch

    Strip it or as is XR650L

    IMO: Taking it to stock with the tank and muffler and re-selling the AM parts might net a small profit, but would it be worth the hassle of shipping and etc? Windscreen and tank bag could be sold for profit without decreasing the overall value I think. Me personally if I was selling it, I'd sell the bike as is at NADA guide values + 75% cost of AM parts. 2050 miles aint nothing on an 08 and should be a nice bike, or nice ROI. ++It's already ADV ready for your next buyer.
  2. TxSamsquanch

    Starter trouble sanity check

    Have you tried pulling in the clutch while you're starting it? If your neutral switch is out, or stuck open, the electrical system could be reading it as "in gear" when it's actually not. And you have to have the clutch engaged to start it "in gear." Check and recheck all electrical connections, especially when doing a frame up resto. You probably know and have done this stuff, but I forget the basics sometimes too. Also, have you tried to bump start it? Any turn over or sputters? ((I'm not 100% about this, but if the neutral light bulb acts as part of the neutral circuit, and the light bulb is out.. the circuit wouldn't be complete and that may be the issue. Worth testing the light bulb though, just in case all else fails.))
  3. TxSamsquanch

    Starting issues. New battery time?

    Couldn't fit a screw on compression tester in there so I went with rubber tip hand pressure thingy. I knew it was a brand new bore, new rings, newly lapped valves with a good seal so I had compression. Went through testing coils and plugs etc all morning. Good ohms on the coil and plug lead. Voltage to the cdi but none out? Weird no voltage at the coil with the ignition on. Plug out = spark. Plug in = no spark. Lead on separate plug without a plug in the bike = spark. Lead on separate plug with spark plug in the bike = no spark. It was weird. But it works now. Ain't broke, don't fix it. Turned out it was battery not having enough UMPH to turn over that brand newly bored cylinder and overcome all that new machining friction. I tied on another battery and that gave some extra juice and it turned over and started right up. I let it warm up, checked for excess smoking or weird problems; none. Now I'm sitting here listening to it idle like a dream. Changed the oil and pumped all that bad oil I could up out of the crankcase; thick bad black shit. Now it starts just fine off that crappy SuperStart battery I have. But I'm still gonna get a Yuasa in the next couple days.
  4. Hey there, I just rebuilt my engine with help from Mike over at Engine Dynamics with a 10.5:1 compression piston and it seems to be killing my battery. I still have the O'reily's branded "SuperStart" AGM battery from when I bought it and it dies out within 10 seconds of cranking. Voltage on the battery drops to near 8 when cranking (Waaay too low to produce a spark from my experience.) Although I did hear it run for 5 seconds before it died out.. I'm also running a HotCam and have about 120 psi compression I want to put a Lithium battery in there for weight reduction, charge retention and cranking amps for the higher compression ratio. Which one would you choose? 1: $150 Shorai https://shoraipower.com/lfx14a4-bs12-p70 2: $115 WPS http://www.santaclaracycle.com/wpsfelibayt.html 3: $75 Super Cheapo Lithium https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Replaces-YTX9-BS-Motorcycle/dp/B078BCYJF9/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1519399734&sr=1-6&keywords=YTX9-BS+12V+Lithium+Ion+Battery&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011 4: $50 Yuasa AGM http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.php?bID=B9&vID=3576 I'm leaning towards the WPS due to the price but I'd like to hear from some other guys who are running lithium batteries, or those who have higher compression pistons running on AGM batteries.
  5. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    So I misspoke, or did not inspect my arms diligently. I do have some damage to the rocker arms where they contact the cam shaft. I've got a new hot cams camshaft with maybe 4-10 hours ride time on it. Lobes on the shaft look decent. I'm gonna buy new rocker arms for this rebuild as well, and &%$#@!it, why not new valves. New rocker arms, new cam shaft, new piston, new valves. Damn near gonna rebuild the entire thing. Not worth the $2800 I paid for it... Last time I buy anything from a redneck or good ole boy.
  6. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    I've already sent Engine Dynamics an Email. lol Bout how much am I looking at? Hopefully it'll just be a rebore and not a re-sleeve. She'll be basically brand new after this.
  7. TxSamsquanch

    Know a good machinist? (Piston Problems)

    They're good, no marrs or scrapes on cam or rocker arms. Didn't drain the oil this time, no need to until I get the piston and cylinder rebuilt. (It's got 2 quarts new oil in there. Ride prior to parking it: *Bike acts like it's seizing up* "Better check the oil,... SHIT... no oil.. Alright 2 quarts in! Vroom Vroom Grind Grind *dead* "Well... load it up in the truck... &%$#@!." The bike had been burning oil since I bought it. Rebuilt the top end and still burnt oil. Didn't check the piston - rookie mistake.
  8. Howdy yall, I finally got around to tearing into my bike and found out why it was acting a fool. That's the bad side of the piston. The other side also had a couple scrapes but not like this. I need a bore job, piston, rings and gaskets me thinks. Is my cylinder even borable? Yes, no? cylinder jug diameter: top: 100.5mm cylinder jug diameter bottom: 100.9mm Piston diamter: 99.75mm I'm assuming it had the stock piston in it so I need to go up in size, just not sure how bad my cylinder is. pictures couldn't get details of the scrapes but when you run a finger nail over it you can feel the grooves. This also helps explain the nonmetallic shavings i found in my oil filter previously. I think Mcma111 has a machine shop out there in cali. Ya'll want a job? lol I'd also like to know what caused the piston to do this. I assume the rings and oil ring compressed too much and failed causing the piston to cant slightly to one side and scrape. I should have taken the jug off when I did the top end earlier this year. Live and learn though.
  9. TxSamsquanch

    08 XR650L Piston Ring Replacement

    Hrmmmm... I replaced the valve seals with brand new OEM ones during the top end rebuild though. If it were the rings would it smoke constantly then?
  10. Hey again, thanks all for helping me get my bike back in order but I might need some more advice. I recently re-did the top end, valves, cam swap etc. and after I got it revived it was smoking on cold starts but stops smoking when the engine gets at operating temp. It's not a TON of smoke, but it is embarrassing when I'm leaving work or a friends house and I have to smoke out the neighborhood before I ride off. My experience with this in the past is oil in the combustion chamber burning. My guess is the piston rings need to be replaced, or it needs a complete bore job. My question is: What are the tolerances for stock rings VS needing to do a bore job? I'm still riding right now until I can get the $ to buy new gaskets and rings and whatever else it may need, so I don't have the diameter of my cylinder or piston at the moment. (Secondary thought: When it did not smoke, prior to top end rebuild, it had very old and viscous oil. When I did the rebuild I did an oil change with fresh oil. Could the thinness of the new oil be enough to seep past the piston rings when the viscous oil wouldn't? Could adding an "oil stabilizer" increase the viscosity and stop the smoking without replacing the rings? Is adding an "oil stabilizer" a bad thing for these bikes; would the extra viscosity overheat the oil because it can't flow properly; could any additives affect the interior of the engine? I'm leaning toward experimenting by thickening the oil first before I spend a chunk of change on rings and gaskets and possibly a bore job.)
  11. TxSamsquanch

    Engine Failure while riding.

    Well it seems to be enjoying the care I've given it. No mechanical clunks, no dying out and no new abnormal issues. Oil was super black and the filter seemed really clogged. There was some metal shavings, really fine stuff, in the filter and filter port. Didn't seem to be magnetic so my guess is aluminium. Noticed on my left side where the cam bearing sits there was a sharp edges on the outside; guessing the top end was rebuilt previously but was not lubricated with moly paste so there was some grinding. It concerns me a bit but not super majorly, not enough to replace the top end. Seems to be back in business, fingers crossed.
  12. TxSamsquanch

    Engine Failure while riding.

    Cleaned the carb again today, and noticed some incomplete "Dave's Mod" work. Added the 0.02" thick washer to the bottom of the needle and removed the airbox snorkel. Cleaned out the petcock and replaced some vacuum hoses. I can't hear anymore clanks or mechanical rattle coming from the engine now which I don't understand but enjoy. Idles good and revs good and doesn't die out either during the rev or post rev back to idle. Gonna change the oil, check the filter for metal pieces and test drive it later today.
  13. TxSamsquanch

    Engine Failure while riding.

    Yes I am, just got everything back together today and wanted to make sure it would start before I shipped off the stock. It's packaged up sitting on the lift at the moment and I'll send it out monday morning. I upped the idle and checked the gas when it cut out and there was gas in the float bowl. I'll go through my petcock, and clean my carb again tomorrow as well as an oil change and keep trying. Killed my battery trying to start it earlier and it just reminded me to invest in a kickstart.
  14. TxSamsquanch

    Engine Failure while riding.

    Bike's still giving me the middle finger after a top end rebuild and camshaft replacement. I've ruled out the decompression system as the culprit but am now back to square one with one big clue. It's something in the crankcase.... joy. Got a video of it doing it's thing as well. Sounds alright when it's putting around, but when you get on the throttle things start clacking around and the moment you pull in the clutch and allow the motor to spin freely it dies. Engine failure happens at 1:25 in the video and dies again at the end but no clacking that time. If anyone has an idea of where to start, or a specific part to start with please let me know. I'm in way over my head here.
  15. TxSamsquanch

    Decompression Issues?

    Welp. Might have had a wrong diagnosis, or maybe just didn't get EVERYTHING that was wrong with it..... Damn I love previous owners who are 5#!7 kicking rednecks and abuse their equipment... On the plus side, the top end and the Thump have never sounded better, and on the down side is there is still a click coming from the engine and the problem of "Clack clack clack *dies*" persists. It seems to happen under load, like constant acceleration that puts a decent strain on the engine. My best guess is that something in the crankcase is dead or very near death. It seized up or felt like it for a microsecond as I tried to troubleshoot it riding up and down my street. I'm at the extent of my mechanic knowledge now and have never tackled a crankcase.... but that's where the problem lies... As the "Clack clack" gets louder, there seems to be more resistance on the motor turning over, the sound gets louder, the motor gets slower until it doesn't have enough momentum to get back to TDC and fire again. I'll try to get a decent video later today of exactly what it's doing so I can be more accurate is describing my issue. I would be amazed if someone else has had this issue as I seem to be very lucky with getting unique and quirky problems that not many have encountered. Edit:: The bike stays running longer when I have it in gear, as soon as I bring in the clutch because I notice that noise, the engine dies. I don't know if it's seizing up and binding, but it will start right back up after a few seconds of being off so it's not locking up and staying locked. Edit2: Since this is not a decompression issue any more I'm going to create a new thread for engine failure.
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