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xtactical

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About xtactical

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Anything with 2 wheels

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  1. xtactical

    Does this sound like Power valve rattling

    I had a similar issue at low RPM I would have swore was power valve rattling. Well it actually turned out to be a lean knock, I didn’t suspect ping because it was so low in the rpm range and when not on the power. After replacing my needle is was resolved.
  2. xtactical

    2 stroke pipe repairs

    I did a write up on how to build your own for cheap, let me see if I can find the thread for you... Found it!
  3. xtactical

    Does this sound like Power valve rattling

    Could be a number of things rattling, or ever the pipe making contact somewhere to frame/radiator? Can you get a recording of it?
  4. Hi everyone I have a bit of a unique project i’m working on. I bought a Joyner 800cc buggy, with 4 speed manual and it’s a blast! I just wish the 800cc wasn’t so anemic, it’s like 35hp 😒 First things first, I need to have some head mods done, skim the head to increase compression, larger valves, port polish etc. Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced machine shop to send the head to be worked? It’s a 3 cylinder and bit heavy for shipping so east coast recommendations especially welcome!
  5. I tested both 170 and 175 mains at colder temps (60F) the 175 would bog and wanted to die at WOT the 170 was ok but still would gargle from time to time which is why I found the 168 to be just right for me
  6. Just curious but why would you think so? It’s actually pretty rich. Moreso than KTM recommended jetting
  7. xtactical

    Would you re-use this cylinder and piston?

    Looks like normal wear to me, i’d run it.
  8. My SX jetting and first test for RK was Keihin 36mm - 38p NEDH 4th clip, 168 main. Sea level, 93 pump 60:1 mix Just dropped the PJ to 35 since i was loading up with RK and sounds much better now. Oh, I also dropped in my N2ZW which is slightly leaner than the NEDH
  9. After cutting the SX down I was right around 1.1mm and 210psi, I did have to open the bowl volume to achieve the 210psi once squish was corrected. Don’t have pics of both (just yet) but squish band does appear a bit more narrow on the RK
  10. Yes, my original squish on SX was 1.90mm with 210psi RK is right about .90. with 205 psi
  11. Yep I broke down and finally went RK not becuase of the crummy sales tactics of some members but becuase I wanted to honestly review the head and craftsmanship for myself. Ordering Process I sent a few general emails wanting to know some simply questions like how does the squish come set on the head and what kind of compression should I expect? Both questions were avoided and info was never provided, even after 3 separate emails asking for any info at all. No one would provide any information, so I went ahead and orderd a version I thought would be best since RK Tek was not providing any info, help or feedback. Order Followup After ordering called Kelsey two days later to ask the same questions I had emailed about (compression, jetting so on). This time Kelsey was a little bit more helpful although not answering my questions directly I finally pulled a few recommendations from him. Seems like a standup guy though who knows his 2 strokes. The Setup KTM 09 300 SX. installed th RK Tek. looks and bling factor A++ beautifully machined piece of work although the Orange heads look more like gold. Zero install issues. The Performace Started bike on he stand. Immediately noticed the bike was a good bit louder with more throaty sound. Warmed up it revs fast and smooth and rpm falls as it should with no pipe bang. I noticed I significant overrev which was not present with my sx head. Trail Performace Immediately I notice it is a lot louder and it has a richer sound to it. I noticed it would load up more than last head if i let rpms stay low for too long, consequently it was lacking right off the bottom, I may be able to jet this out of the bottom, however the bottom was definitely its weak point. Not only did the head not add anything to the bottom it may have even taken a bit away, granted that’s with the jetting being to rich on pilot. FYI These jetting specs ran perfect on my shaved SX head. Real Performance So getting on it once warmed up was not what I was expecting... Once I got past the sluggish bottom BOOM out of no where the mid range takes off like rocket. The Mids pull so hard it feels like when I run the red spring and set it to open early. It just comes on so quick and suddenly it’s actually difficult to keep the front down. It has a much more “2 stroke” feel to it. The high rpm range is maybe slighy better but not impressive like the mid range hit, good news is the over rev is very noticeable and can go further without a shift. I have a feeling if I put the red spring back in with this setup the bike would be so easy to loop it would just do it at the flick of your wrist Final Thoughts Im trying to figure out how to increase lows (lean pilot) tame the mids with more fuel and PV adjustments and keep a liner power through the rev range and i’ll be extremely happy if i can do those things. These heads are a gorgeous piece of machined bling, better cooling, and strong increase in power and for this i’m very happy with mine 8/10 score
  12. xtactical

    2017 Ktm 300 Keihin 36 Suzuki Needle Jetting??

    To answer your question- make it run like crap. NECJ is way lean for sea level, it will have softer low end but main thing necj did for me was induce serious detonation. NEDH much better 👍
  13. xtactical

    KTM wheel to rough for Tubliss?

    It’s the spoke area that’s the biggest problem because you have a 110psi bladder sitting on those spoke nipples, the only thing separating them is a thin layer of tape, but with the high preasure those edges wear through the tape. Just make sure to sand those spoke nipples nice and smooth and you should be okay. PS if your following the directions all this is detailed in there as well as in tubliss’s install videos
  14. xtactical

    KTM wheel to rough for Tubliss?

    I don’t think the OP was worried about air coming through the rim, most people understand that tubliss does use an air bladder (similar to a tube) just much smaller. It is however relevant to the system holding air because anything sharp will puncture the blader, if not now later... which is why the manual specifically calls to have anything sharp shaved off. OP may get lucky but i’d rather do it right the first time by sanding all sharps or using new rim
  15. xtactical

    Clever Levers Causing Stiffness/drag?

    Well i haven’t tried a stock lever so it’s possible it is helping and the stock could be worse. I am Certain it is installed and adjusted correctly and free of any binding etc, so i’m kinda glad to her the drag issue could be related since I can’t find any other cause...
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