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About SaggySuspension

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  1. Thanks, nice to hear it from somebody who specializes in the steel frames. Nothing is necessarily wrong with the Athena, however there are some wear marks on the exhaust bridge and top half, nothing too bad, but since I am doing a complete frame off restoration and have heard of head gasket issues/durability issues with the Athena, I would like to go back to OEM. Another reason is that I have a brand new Wiseco piston Kit for it with wrist pin bearing, 1999 OEM head to use, complete OEM gasket kit, and spare '99 exhaust valve (only one side) that came with the bike
  2. I recently picked up a 1999 yz125 to restore as a winter project. The Frame is a 1999. The bottom end is a 1997. The cylinder is an Athena standard bore kit.From what I have seen online the Athena cylinder fits 1997-2004 yz125 as long as you use a 1999 or newer exhaust on the 97-98 cylinders. As far as I can tell from the parts fiche, the 1997 bottom end is identical to the 1999 (matching various part numbers) My question is, if I ran a new 1999 OEM cylinder on the 1997 bottom end, would there be any hidden issues? As long as I run the complete 99 power valve setup and exhaust it should be fine, correct? Essentially everything will be 1999, and ONLY the complete bottom end would be 1997. If anybody knows of exact differences between the years, it would be a great help. Some info I found online seems to vary in accuracy of the year to year compatibility.
  3. Another thing to note, I own a 98 and worked on a 99 recently. I found the 99 to ‘feel’ wider at the radiator shrouds. BUT the entire back half of the 99 (from seat to rear fender) seems tinier and slimmer. Also, for woods/enduro, the handles in the side panels on the 98 are perfect for picking the bike up whether on the stand or in the trail. However on the 99, I can’t even get my hand in them, they are pretty much useless. And I’m only a size large glove.
  4. Thanks for the reply’s. I’ve contacted the shop who builds them and it is in fact a snow x billet rod. Seems to be a high quality piece, they mentioned wossner or Carrillo make them (don’t know how accurate this is). The shop uses snow x for turbo’d sleds so I’m gonna run it.
  5. I recently purchased a rebuilt OEM crankshaft for my 1998 kx250. The crank was listed as 92-01. The owner says it is an OEM crank rebuilt with a billet Carrillo rod, But I've contacted Carrillo and they said they do not make rods for 2 strokes yet. Upon further questioning the owner says it is an aftermarket brand for a Kawi race team, but claims to not know much about it. (also claims it was rebuilt by Idaho’s best, but then told me falicon rebuilt it years ago and it sat unused) Does anybody recognize this connecting rod or have any idea what it might actually be? These are not my pictures, I have not received the item yet. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  6. That bolt sticking out (brake rod) is what the new lever attaches to via some weird shaped bushings and a nut. The lever is directly attached to the plunger. That’s one thing I wish the K-series bikes had, the newer style levers, which are just a simple nub that presses on the plunger and not that needlessly complex setup.
  7. Well it turns out the chain actually doesn’t touch the case. The wear was from the previous owner before I did a frame off restoration. The wear groove isn’t too deep either so I’m going to continue to run the chain. I’ve heard of people just letting the chain rub away whatever it’s gonna rub away, or even Dremel it (I highly suggest NOT doing that) So for these bikes it seems any chain with a pin length over 20mm-21mm will most likely rub the cases a little, but will only do so much My chain is just under 20mm pin length so it clears. Should help some in finding the right o-ring or x-ring chain as they are known to rub.
  8. I have a 1998 kx250, and I am having an issue with the chain rubbing the case by the front sprocket. It appears that these bikes have a problem fitting anything that isn't a non o-ring chain. The chain I am currently running is a D.I.D 520 Pro VO-ring chain. Are there any o-ring or x-ring chains that fit these bikes without rubbing? I have heard of the VT2 narrow enduro chain but would like more options. Can't seem to find a definite answer searching. P.s. Jake_shake I know I'm really late, but I just saw the same tank sell on Ebay and it was listed as an IMS, with an IMS gas cap to match.
  9. The ‘99 and ‘00 rm’s came with USD forks. They also have the larger radiator shrouds, BUT if I’m not mistaken, it looks like it has the older, smaller shroud on the left side, and the bigger newer shroud on the right side. EDIT: but you can be certain the bike is a 1996-2000 rm
  10. You're not alone, I love the look of the early 90's bikes. The 1992 rm's in particular are the loudest of the bunch and often hated but it is one of my favorites. The 1992 rmx250 had a matching graphic theme as seen below. Maybe you'd be interested in doing a little bit of a throwback to that look, since you have a nice purple seat cover, maybe a purple and yellow tribute to that style so it all matches. EDIT: I found another pic, Its no rmx, but the purple would match your seat. Paul Edmondson's 1997 RM250 gncc bike.
  11. That’s the kicker, most of those who are getting the lower quality work are paying $250 or more for just the frame and subframe. I went with a prismatic powder regular high gloss. No clear coat. I do not know too much on the different types of finishes other than the more complex the color, such as metallics, require more layers and work. Which also means it’s laid on pretty thick. On the bike it holds up amazing, I use frame guards,skid plate , and helicopter tape in other high wear areas. Powder is much stronger than paint. For a frame I’d run powder any day. For a swingarm however, or other misc. pieces, I would personally run bare metal or a spray paint (mostly if off-roading). Due to the amount of scratches and wear they see. It is much easier to touch up a swingarm quickly yourself rather than a whole powder job all over.
  12. When you get ahold of a powder coater, it’s pretty easy to tell if they are good and know what they are doing. I see a lot of people on here say that the powder coater was unable to save the Vin, or required the steering stem races to be removed, or that threads won’t be plugged. All of these are signs to move to a different shop. I had my 98 kx250 frame done at a local powdertech. All threads were plugged (no chasing of threads or cleanup required), steering stem races were plugged, and Vin was covered but still clearly legible. All for $125 and that’s including sand blasting EDIT: also keep an eye out for shops that want you to buy several pounds of powder for just your frame, whether they say it’s for future sprays or if it goes wrong, both are just scams to get you to stock their own supplies.
  13. Hey guys, new to the forum here. Picked up a 1991 DR250S with about 1,000 miles on it for my first bike. As much as a barn find as you can get, been sitting for years. Tank was full of rust, but evapo-rust made it brand new again. Went over the bike top to bottom and gave it all new fluids, filters and some fix ups where needed. The oil in the bike was still clean when we replaced it, Once assembled it started on the very first kick, not second or third, very first kick, fired right up, no smoke or problems at all. Everything is super clean and fresh, even the plastics look glossy and new. I have the mirrors and turn signals as well as plate holder in a box until i get it on the road. runs great.
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