• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

290 Excellent

About markbfe501

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. I have an EVO 4T Sport that I use for trials. Nice having the seat and tank for the trails (to get to trials riding areas), but the bike is not that tough and not really suited as a trail bike. Slower riding, fine, but not for blasting through single track like you would on a true woods bike. Front forks are only 38mm and soft, brake rotors are tiny and not intended to stop from fast speeds on an ongoing basis, and the first 3 gears are very short/low speed with a huge jump when shifting to 4th and 5th. I have a Husky FE501 for woods, and the EVO 4T for trials. If I were only going to have one bike and wanted to do trials type riding, I would get the KTM Freeride. It's a smaller framed bike, and designed 50/50 trail/trials. While Beta makes the X-Trainer and says it's both a trials and trail bike, most reviews would tell you it's a smaller framed trail bike, more like 80% trail, 20% trials. I do ride a lot of trails on the EVO, but I don't dare try to keep up with others that are on trail bikes. I creep along.
  2. AXP Xtreme is very tough, also protects the rear linkage and comes off easily for oil changes.
  3. Here's what I did - cut the existing sub fender, take off the existing turns and put Sicass flush turns on it, and remount the plate with one of those KTM plastic bases. Cost me about $50 and I can easily come off the back of the bike without snagging anything.
  4. To completely get the air out of the system, I used two syringes to bleed from the bottom to the top (one syringe adding fluid at the bottom, watching bubbles come out of the MC, syphoning off excess with the 2nd syringe), then I bled from the top down like you would do your car brakes (fluid in the MC, pump the lever several times and hold while breaking open the bleeder). I have very good, solid 1 finger clutch operation.
  5. Sweet! My first KTM was an 05 450EXC. Awesome bike!
  6. If you are talking about the paper gasket, you can get another one from your Husky/KTM dealer as well. Regarding sprocket - don't need to remove to install the Oberon. About a 30 minute job - 5-10 minutes to swap it out, plus about 10-20 minutes of bleeding. Not hard to do by yourself.
  7. Look again at the banjo bolt head, and make sure the corner of the bolt head isn't pressing against the protrusion in the engine casting. I put the Oberon on first without the hose/banjo. I did this primarily to make sure I got the big seal into the cavity straight and a solid flush mount of the slave and its gasket to the bike. I went ahead and torqued the slave to spec. Then I installed the hose/banjo fitting. The corners of the banjo bolt definitely hit the protrusion mentioned above, and I had to slightly round those corners to get it to turn. Got a tight fit, and 5 or so months later, zero leaks. I could see 3 causes to the leak: 1. Damaged gasket 2. Slave not all the way flush to the engine housing (which could be caused by that banjo bolt) 3. The large rubber o-ring not properly seated inside the receiving cavity, or damaged.
  8. Just keep in mind that the bolts, crush washers, etc are relatively cheap when you are already paying shipping on an order if ordering online. If you have to place a 2nd order, RMATV and others get you again pretty good on shipping items that should take a 50 cent stamp.
  9. ^^ This is consistent with what others have done (and I would do) when going back to tubes from Tubliss. You need the rim lock in the correct sized hole. Tube stem - ok in the larger hole, and the stem seal will reduce water intrusion and help keep the stem from the edges of the hole. I'd also soften up the edges of the drilled hole with some fine sandpaper to make sure there's no sharp edges that could cut your tube.
  10. Where I ride in Meridian, MS, the trails are owned by the city and the police dept manages them. Great group, and very good riders.
  11. Received mine. Thought it would be already put together and stored in the bag, then I'd just take pics as I pulled it out. That wasn't the case, it was disassembled. Anyhoo, It took a couple of minutes to put it together, then I took a shot at putting it all in the bag. Worked first try. Here's what I did. 1. Put 2 leg sections in, the larger section shoved with the cross leg to one end of the gag, the then one of the smaller ones along either side of this section. I put the tire tools and threaded wheel spindle in the open spaces 2. Put the two smaller tire support sections in with the rings facing the same way with one another 3. Put the larger tire support section (the one with the lever) in, allowing the rings from the two smaller sections to protrude through 4. Put the remaining smaller leg, the additional lever piece, and other stuff in the open areas. 5. Zip it up.
  12. I'd also add a set of the mounting bolts in case they are a different length than on the Magura. From lessons learned on this forum, when you "snug down the bolts, do just that. A few folks have posted they stripped out the case threads on the small M6 bolts from over doing it. Here's a copy/paste from an earlier post of mine: While the service manual doesn't list the clutch slave mounting bolts specifically, it does list others that might serve as examples. These use similar sized screws and screw into similar material - confirms these bolts don't need a lot of torque (they also have torx heads on them, another indicator they are not intended to be all that tight): Oil filter cover, M6 bolt, 10Nm or 7.4ft-lbs or 88.8 inch-lbs Engine case screws, M6 bolt, 10Nm or 7.4ft-lbs or 88.8 inch-lbs Clutch cover screws, M6 bolt, 10Nm or 7.4ft-lbs or 88.8 inch-lbs Even the larger oil drain plug doesn't take much: Oil drain plug with magnet, M12x1.5, 20Nm or 14.8ft-lbs None of these bolts call for any type of loctite. Again, I just use a small 1/4" Craftsman ratchet, hold the wrench right up at the head and snug these down, and check for leaks. If I use a torque wrench, I use a 1/4" torque wrench (inch-lbs), as otherwise I'd be on the very low end of a 3/8" torque wrench where accuracy would be a concern - and again, it doesn't take much to strip the housing on these small bolts. Go slow, and be careful. Hope this helps. Mark
  13. That's just the KTM motor crunching rocks. Mine doesn't vibrate much different than my son's WR450.
  14. When are you noticing vibration - on the trails, on the highway, higher or slower speeds? On the highway, keep in mind the wheels aren't balanced and the rimlock and valve stem are 4" apart. Several make a simple set of balance weights you can add to help this out. While I do take mine on the highway, it's only for short stints to the trails. I've geared mine pretty low for single track, so I usually don't ride more than 50-55. Vibration is bad enough at that speed. I haven't balanced mine. On the trails, I don't sense any unusual vibration.