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About Bgeorgal

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    TT Newbie

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    New York

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  1. True... that's a good idea...do you have a title for either frame?
  2. Thanks guys. That helps a lot. I will stay away from the 93 xr200 then. It for sale in Facebook scranton PA if interested. I see some frames on ebay but then I need all the other parts...haha. the xr200 was a complete bike and thought I could just swap motors. Thanks again.
  3. Hi, I see this is old but I have an extra motor from an 86 xl250r. I might be able to get my hands on a good shape 93 xr200 with blown moror for almost nothing..... i have a different single carb head for the motor rather than the dual carb set up....does anyone know If the mounts on the 84 to 94 xr250 series motors will bolt right into a 93 xr200 frame? Thanks
  4. Thanks. Oh and yes I did replace the decompression cable with a new one. And yes, turns out there is no limiter cap on the new carb so I was able to play with that.. I turned it all the way in, and it was set at the factory at 1.5 turns out. I was able to back it out to about 2.5 turns and seems the popping slowed way down, then I turned up the idle (seems a little high). then the popping almost 100% went away. However, it was 55 degrees out at night and didn't ride it hard on the trails to get real hot (will probably react differently in the summer when its 80-90 degrees out...) but seems better. Will ride it more over the next few days.... Still thinking I might need to go up one jet size but we'll see... Thank you!
  5. Ok, After looking in the service manual it doesn't look like they want you to adjust the air screw as this is factory set and has a cover that you have to break off to get to it. Please note this is a dual carb set up. In fact these were brand new NOS carbs I found wrapped in plastic in original boxes that were still factory lubed a bit. I will do it but maybe thinking I try changing the jets first since I am not sure I can get another air screw limiter cap. A guy I bought the air box from said that these bikes run hot and if it does try 2 things... 1) make sure the gas tank lid vent works and to put the next size up jets in it. So based on the fact that it runs good when cold, only pops when warmed up and by the plug it appears to be running lean.... Which jets should I upgrade? The book shows a needle jet, slow jet and main jet...plus the actual jet needle. any ideas? thanks again all.
  6. Thanks. I will check the service manual I just got and use your suggestions on the air screw mixture. yes, it starts ok cold with the choke and I used the choke to warm it up but haven't tried it when idling/popping.. it idles high with the choke on but I think that is to be expected. Here are some pics of the spark plug. It only has about 3 or 4 runs of about 10-20 minutes on the plug. It does look like it is slightly tan? Will keep you posted and thanks again for your help.
  7. Ok, just spent a summer bringing back to life (minor restoration) of a Honda 1987 XL250r from the grave.... If I knew then what I know now I would have just bought a newer running bike. I like these projects but over budget and this model is really a 2 year model bike and parts are really hard to find... This includes overpaying for a NOS dual carb set up from overseas.... haha Anyway, finally got it back from the shop as they did a top end rebuild for me and installed the new carb and got it running. Starts good and idle good. However, after II ride it and it gets warmed up, it starts to pop a bit at an idle only. I am running Premium 93 octane (all I can get around here). I haven't looked at the plug yet but I was told thee bikes like to run hot and should go with one size larger jets (should that be a main jet one size larger)? Also, what oil should I be using. I have heard synthetic oil has a lower break in viscosity of some sort (probably saying it wrong), providing less friction meaning the bike might run cooler. I live in Buffalo NY and will be mainly trail riding on my own 76 acres... no racing, not super aggressively etc. I had Yamalube 20w-50 I think but should I run a 10w-40 synthetic like an Amsoil motorcycle 10w-40 motorcycle oil or I have heard Castrol Power 1 Synthetic 4T Motorcycle Oil is really good. Any ideas on how to keep this bike running cooler? I can email a video of the sound it makes when hot and idling if you PM me your email address. Here are some before and after pics....
  8. Thanks. Good idea....I took the engine and carb into a motor shop today and he pulled out a few flexible long idle screws and said he sees these often on bikes and either had one that will work or can modify one to make it work... he didnt seem concerned. I think I should be ok. Thanks!
  9. I have a 1987 Honda XL250R and looks like my carb the idle screw is missing. it looks very unique and curved....I found this pic on ebay and the circled piece is what I need. Thanks
  10. Yeah, I think you are right. After further inspection it looks like the valve didn't touch as there are no marks on it or the piston. If I tap on the valve it goes all the way in... if I push on the spring to open the valve, it opens and then doesnt close all the way and can get a .002 feeler gauge between the valve and the seat. Either the valve is bent or something wrong in the valve guide. I drilled out the broken exhaust studs on the old head, tapped them and going to put that one back on with the new cylinder and piston.... wish me luck. Thanks
  11. I have an xr 70 that was tired.... would idle but no power. Tore it down and the rings wore so worn. I bought a top end rebuild kit off eBay for $90 that came with new head, cylinder, pistons etc. I watched a bunch of videos and consider myself pretty handy in the shop. I installed the new parts, timed it with the 0 on the notch at TDC when the valves were closed.... tapped the valve clearance at .002 and everything appeared to be perfect. I didn't follow the book and I tightened the head bolts probably too tight (I now know they should only be 8 ft lbs.) I kicked it over a few times, sounded good and then then on the 2rd or 3rd time it felt weird... then tried to push start it and still wouldn't start. Took stator cover off and piston sounded like it was scratching a little on the down stroke when I turn the flywheel by hand.... Took the timing cover off and now it's like 75-90° off and the 0 is no longer on the notch at TDC. So I took it apart and looks like the intake valve now doesn't close all the way and I can get my .002 feeler gauge in between the valve and seat... Does anyone know what could have happened? I assume the timing chain slipped, and the piston hit the valve since maybe the head bolts were too tight? Thanks for any advice. I ordered a new valve, the piston and rings and cylinder still look good....
  12. Hi, bought a top end kit for the 2003 XR70. Making my 12 and 14 yr old help as a learning experience. We've watched some videos, have it torn apart and ready to re-assemble. The eBay listing said the head was assembled and that would be some extra gaskets included and I have figured them all out but the ones in the picture? What are these 2 brown seals for (valaves?) And if the head is already assembled do I need them? What are these 2 smaller o-rings? The don't appear to go between the cylinder/head etc as I have those thicket o-rings. Thanks for any help.
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