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About Newjorciks

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  1. Did you check both the orange and red wire for voltage(Against the black dotted wire)? The red one gives power all the time, while the orange one gives power when the key is turned, could be that the red one isn't giving it power. And what voltages are you getting there?
  2. Yes, it doesn't matter what you put there, might as well put a toaster there as long as it isn't over the rated load for the flasher. These ones are supposedly 100W max and you most surely don't have 50W turn signal bulbs each, so you should be fine. Of course always nicer to have LED turn signals, way less power draw.
  3. The original one are load-dependent, so they flash at different speeds depending on the load and are configured for the load that the original bulbs take. The LED flashers are load-INdependent, so no matter the load they flash at a fixed rate. You can look up how they work and all, but not really necessary.
  4. You can get the LED relays cheaper, probably same one anyways, have this exact one and works like a charm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Pin-Flasher-Relay-LED-Signal-Blinker-For-Suzuki-DRZ400-GSF-600-Bandit-GSXR-SV/182732743608?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  5. Check your battery voltage. Could be that your battery is dead, with bumpstart the stator keeps it running.
  6. Behind the cylinder/head and starter on the left side of the bike.
  7. So a situation where I needed a new stator for my DRZ400 turned up. While searching for a spare DRZ400 stator I came up on a person selling an LTZ400 one for 60euros, looked pretty much unused as well. The only problem with the LTZ stator is that the wires are significantly shorter, the 3 wires that go to rectifier are good length, but the 4 wires that go to the CDI are too short and the 4 pin plug for the CDI is also different. (Left is LTZ400, right is DRZ400) After searching around the web there wasn't much info about putting an LTZ400 stator in a DRZ400, but I still decided to do it. What you need: The old DRZ400 stator The new LTZ400 stator Heatshrink tubing(Preferably adhesive lined ones, just like the ones for Free power mod) Sodering iron Solder Wire cutters and strippers It was actually easier than I expected: 1. Take the old stator and the new one and put them next to each other and put the wires next to each other. The DRZ wires will extend further out. 2. Cut the 4 wires that go to the CDI on the DRZ stator a little longer than what the LTZ stator is missing in length. 3. Cut off the 4 wire plug from the LTZ stator. 4. Now add the new cut wires from the DRZ to the end of the LTZ wires. Use a good wire splicing "knot", just so there is more than just solder holding them together. Splice matching colors together, so the blue wire from the LTZ stator goes to the blue wire from the DRZ cut wire, etc. Remember to put the heatshrink tubing on the wires before soldering them. 5. Seal the heatshrink by heating it while having it over the soldered part(And extending over it), probably not a bad idea to cover it some more with electric tape as well. 6. Turn the LTZ400 stator upside down and take off one of the wire "holders"(Picture below) as the LTZ400 stator cover has 2 cutouts for the 2 holders it has, while the DRZ400 cover only has 1 cutout. (Left is DRZ400 stator, right is LTZ400) After all that is done you can follow the normal instructions of putting the stator back in the bike. Have fun riding and I hope that this can help someone.
  8. It should be like that. Front tires have the opposite way tread from the back tire, unlike cars where all are same way. With bike tires, both front and rear, you can imagine the tread making an arrow and pointing to the middle of the bike(Assuming you are looking at it from the top of the tire). Also he wasn't riding offroad, he was going on an asphalt road, the picture is probably of the bike after they took it off the road.
  9. Yeah, that is why I said in a previous answer that it's correct. It just seems weird for people that don't know how it should be.
  10. If you roll the bike forward slowly then on the rear tire first part of the thread that will touch ground is the part that is cut in the middle and will gradually move to outside of the tire, while in the front first the first to touch is the outside and then it moves in.
  11. No, it's correct. Front tire tread on motorcycles looks counter intuitive, it looks like it would push water to the middle of the tire, it's meant to be that way. Don't remember the exact reasoning or how it works but you can read about it.
  12. "I thought I could ride it" won't be enough for the cops when they get you with a bike more powerful that A2 allows So make sure to check the papers for that specific bike to make sure it's actually listed as lower than 35KW.
  13. It seems that the E model is in theory 36.5 kW. Which is over the A2 license, but all will depend on what is in the bikes papers, here in Latvia it's common that bikes are registered as lower KW than they actually are(Like A2 legal WR450 registered as something like 25KW while actually over 40KW). As for commuting, 10-15km will be no problem. For longer rides you want to look at the gearing, as the E model is more off-road oriented it will have a higher gearing, meaning lower top speed, but better acceleration, so it could be that at highway speeds you have to sit in high revs for a long time(Not good for any engine), but 15km will not be a problem at all.
  14. stator

    Where should I get the 6 new bolts for the flywheel from? I think I want to get the 12.9 hardness bolts as recommended, but not sure where to get the bolts. I assume someplace like the hardware store might not be reputable enough to get bolts for inside of the engine. Also as all the 6 bolts are slightly loose, is it normal for the flywheel to have some turning play? As in I can turn the flywheel a milimeter or so before it starts turning the engine. Almost like the holes where the bolts go through the flywheel on it are plenty larger than the bolt threads.
  15. stator

    Well, got my taste of chewed stator myself few days ago, heard rattling sound in left cover after starting it up one day, opened it up today. My assumption is that the stator is dead, has a few ripped cords and of course also exposed cords from rubbing with one screw that decided to snap in half.