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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About Newjorciks

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  1. Just yesterday I had the same problem. I would bleed it completely to the point that no bubbles at all are coming out the bleed valve, but still didn't have pressure. I have a front caliper with 4 pistons from a ZX6R. I took it off the bike, put a wood piece in place of the brake disc and while my dad was actuating the brake, I was turning the caliper all around and tapping it with a rubber mallet. After that, did a few bleeds again and some huge bubbles came out. Had good pressure after that. So probably lightly tapping the caliper, even without removing, could help dislodge some of those pesky bubbles.
  2. Thank you, I was about to post the same thing, getting really annoying already. I understand posting it in one thread, but not freaking 7 threads like he did for this video... I get it, he wants views and subs, but if someone wants to see those videos they will find it if he just makes his own thread about the bike. EDIT: Just noticed that he even spammed so hard that he posted the same video twice in the "DRZ pics, lets see your Z" thread...
  3. I would suggest putting it up on a stand(Or a box, whatever) so that the rear wheel is up. Then while on the left side of the bike try putting it in gear and letting off clutch, while also looking at the place where the clutch cable enters the engine(Left side of engine, behind starter) and see if it fully disengages when you let go the lever, if not you know it's the cable. I guess you could do it without lifting and just in neutral, but this would take out most of the variables to be more sure. Also, do the clutch adjustment, it could be that it's tightened right now to the point that it is always a little engaged?
  4. You can get the LED flasher relay for as cheap as 4$ if you are willing to wait up to a month for them from china https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Pin-LED-Flasher-Relay-12V-LED-Indicator-For-Suzuki-SV650-SV650S-SV1000-SV1000S/142680072458?hash=item213865210a:g:8YAAAOSwgv5Zeuge&vxp=mtr I have one on my bike and it works perfectly.
  5. Did you check both the orange and red wire for voltage(Against the black dotted wire)? The red one gives power all the time, while the orange one gives power when the key is turned, could be that the red one isn't giving it power. And what voltages are you getting there?
  6. Yes, it doesn't matter what you put there, might as well put a toaster there as long as it isn't over the rated load for the flasher. These ones are supposedly 100W max and you most surely don't have 50W turn signal bulbs each, so you should be fine. Of course always nicer to have LED turn signals, way less power draw.
  7. The original one are load-dependent, so they flash at different speeds depending on the load and are configured for the load that the original bulbs take. The LED flashers are load-INdependent, so no matter the load they flash at a fixed rate. You can look up how they work and all, but not really necessary.
  8. You can get the LED relays cheaper, probably same one anyways, have this exact one and works like a charm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Pin-Flasher-Relay-LED-Signal-Blinker-For-Suzuki-DRZ400-GSF-600-Bandit-GSXR-SV/182732743608?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  9. Check your battery voltage. Could be that your battery is dead, with bumpstart the stator keeps it running.
  10. Behind the cylinder/head and starter on the left side of the bike.
  11. So a situation where I needed a new stator for my DRZ400 turned up. While searching for a spare DRZ400 stator I came up on a person selling an LTZ400 one for 60euros, looked pretty much unused as well. The only problem with the LTZ stator is that the wires are significantly shorter, the 3 wires that go to rectifier are good length, but the 4 wires that go to the CDI are too short and the 4 pin plug for the CDI is also different. (Left is LTZ400, right is DRZ400) After searching around the web there wasn't much info about putting an LTZ400 stator in a DRZ400, but I still decided to do it. What you need: The old DRZ400 stator The new LTZ400 stator Heatshrink tubing(Preferably adhesive lined ones, just like the ones for Free power mod) Sodering iron Solder Wire cutters and strippers It was actually easier than I expected: 1. Take the old stator and the new one and put them next to each other and put the wires next to each other. The DRZ wires will extend further out. 2. Cut the 4 wires that go to the CDI on the DRZ stator a little longer than what the LTZ stator is missing in length. 3. Cut off the 4 wire plug from the LTZ stator. 4. Now add the new cut wires from the DRZ to the end of the LTZ wires. Use a good wire splicing "knot", just so there is more than just solder holding them together. Splice matching colors together, so the blue wire from the LTZ stator goes to the blue wire from the DRZ cut wire, etc. Remember to put the heatshrink tubing on the wires before soldering them. 5. Seal the heatshrink by heating it while having it over the soldered part(And extending over it), probably not a bad idea to cover it some more with electric tape as well. 6. Turn the LTZ400 stator upside down and take off one of the wire "holders"(Picture below) as the LTZ400 stator cover has 2 cutouts for the 2 holders it has, while the DRZ400 cover only has 1 cutout. (Left is DRZ400 stator, right is LTZ400) After all that is done you can follow the normal instructions of putting the stator back in the bike. Have fun riding and I hope that this can help someone.
  12. It should be like that. Front tires have the opposite way tread from the back tire, unlike cars where all are same way. With bike tires, both front and rear, you can imagine the tread making an arrow and pointing to the middle of the bike(Assuming you are looking at it from the top of the tire). Also he wasn't riding offroad, he was going on an asphalt road, the picture is probably of the bike after they took it off the road.
  13. Yeah, that is why I said in a previous answer that it's correct. It just seems weird for people that don't know how it should be.
  14. If you roll the bike forward slowly then on the rear tire first part of the thread that will touch ground is the part that is cut in the middle and will gradually move to outside of the tire, while in the front first the first to touch is the outside and then it moves in.