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About KeyKeeper

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    Drag racing, horseshoes, motocross, hare scrambles, offroad

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  1. Timing marks look way off. Should be second tick mark on flywheel, and your intake cam is only showing one dot. should have one on top, and one flush with valve cover rail. Same with exh cam. Hope you didnt munch a valve cranking it over.... ouch!
  2. Ty Davis, Malcolm Smith, Larry Roeseler, Scott Plessinger....ffs Dick Burleson!
  3. Wouldn't want to hold all that hot air in huh? Hug a root troll...41 posts since 2009 Go home, you're drunk.
  4. Ok, let me back up so there is no confusion. On my buds 2007 KX250F, we installed the 09 version. I worked with the design engineer at Rekluse to come up with a pre 09 auto clutch solution for my buds kx. He is a good rider, but uphills kick his butt on the 250F since it is lacking torque. Yeah he could buy a bigger bike, but that just is not in the budget for him. I actually took a loss and sold him the kx so me and him could go ride together. The 09 kit uses a 2mm washer between the release bearing and pressure plate. Also comes with special thickness steels and frictions. Adding the bearing washer 2mm or even 1.5mm changes the way the clutch lever/cable/perch and actuator arm engage the pressure plate. Since the actuator arm is essentially a cam lobe that pushes the release rod towards the right side of the bike, the gap between the release bearing/ball assembly and pressure plate is critical. Rekluse supplied a 1mm washer with the kit we received since it was "beta". After assembly, and following the "rubber band" procedure supplied in the installation manual, we achieved auto clutch but lost ALL play in the lever. This is fine if you strictly rely on the auto clutch for feather type apply. However, if you still want to override the clutch by using the lever, it gives a very strange and firm feed back which to us was undesirable. We installed the 2mm washer and was able to achieve the level free play again and still have auto clutch function. When cold the bike does not want to auto clutch(parasitic drag) but after a few wicks of the throttle with clutch pulled in or a few minutes riding it warming up the oil, it works a dandy. Now with the 2mm washer, we achieved what we wanted as far as lever feedback, but I believe he lost his ability to roll start(not 100% sure of this as I didnt get to test it after the 2mm was installed). Its one or the other I guess. If you want auto clutch, and roll start capability, then the shimming of the release bearing should not be done, and a 1mm washer (07/08 only) should be used. Then the friction gap is set with the clutch perch. Most of the newer clutch perches have the 4 prong star looking speed adjuster with the ball detent in them. This would be paramount to have for rolls start capability. Without it, adjustment would be a pain in the nuts. Now all of this is moot if you have a hydraulic clutch as the free play is set with the adjustable slave cylinder. E.g. KTM/HUSKY/BETA/or aftermarket magura Hope that makes sense.
  5. You sound like a slow rider. Try that line selection/tire placement bull*hit in the sand at 70+ mph.... Oh and your post was easy to understand, so not sure what your going on about however. You simply are some keyboard commando who wants to talk about his bars and how bad a** you think you are. Go tell the pro's that are using dampers how stupid they are and see how that works out for you. Its real simple. Slight hydraulic drag for 100+ miles compared to instant and near constant shock loading transmitted to the upper body for 100+ miles....You do the math tart since you seem to be a genius. Physics...its not that difficult.
  6. Who knew... GPR and Scotts are the makers of arm pump devices.....
  7. Well bike aughta be top notch after all this trouble
  8. Im well aware of your wizardry Doc What I find strange however, is on other forums/groups, the people really bashing Rekluse are people who have never owned them. I think the expense of them deters a lot of people from diving into them and learning their benifits. I know for a fact that if my bike had not already had one installed when I got it, I wouldn't have one now since they are not easy on the wallet. Now the seasoned old timers and younger fit guys on the 2 strokes rely on their clutch control skills for the hardest stuff, and I respect that. However, Im a "work smarter, not harder" kind of guy and on a big bore heavy bike, Im glad I have the auto clutch as its saved my butt numerous times. Im no pro and will never claim to be and try to learn from anyone I ride with. My *hit stinks and I know it lol.
  9. Engine braking has always been a complaint on the Rekluse. This issue isnt the Rekluse, its the loose nut behind the wheel setting them up. I have the Z start pro and it engine brakes like a normal clutch all the way down to idle. With the friction/steel stack set up correctly, there is enough parasitic drag to spool up the hub and re-engage the drive assembly providing engine braking. Also downshifting without the clutch keeps the engine braking on all time. If coasting down a hill for a while with clutch pulled in, it will then freewheel for about 2 seconds unless you blip the throttle and then it will brake all the way down to idle speed unless the setup is stupid loose and the high stall springs are installed or not enough tungsten balls installed. (Zstart pro only). If the motor dies...well yeah your pretty much screwed at that point as the Zstart prevents roll starting. Now the kick start issue is clutch specific. The Radius does NOT have this problem unless its a hydraulic clutch (KTM/HUSKY/BETA) as the friction gap is set by the clutch perch adjuster. I dont like this type of setup as it takes all the free play out of the cable but it does work well. If roll start is needed, just using the quick adjuster on the perch to back off on the cable it will roll start like a normal bike. Once started a few turns back in and it will autoclutch. My buds KX250F just got the radius and we were kind of the crash test dummies since Rekluse did not offer one for an 07. We used the 09 kit with special steels and clutches and then had to play with the release bearing shimming to get it spot on. It turned out great and hes riding steep rocky uphills that he would have walked away from before. The DE at Rekluse is going to release the BOM soon and now offer the early model KX250F kit for resale.
  10. @mudmixer please keep us updated on the progress. These weird problems will drive you crazy and anyone who may stumble across this thread could find their needle in the haystack fix
  11. Also, after rereading this entire thread so I wasn't going off into never land with ideas, your coil ohm measurement is WAY off. That alone tells me its toast and Id bet a buffalo nickle that's your main culprit at this point. Higher Resistance = good Lower Resistance = very bad The coil has a shorted winding in it, hence the lower resistance and now will only put out a very small amount of secondary voltage and will also drop off too fast on the hv output curve. It has next to no capacitance with the low resistance so it cannot sustain a spark long enough. This will drastically affect timing, especially under any sort of load and elevated RPM. Was like dejavu reading your laundry list of parts you changed as Ive changed all of them AND a new FMF pipe trying to narrow down this sputter. Heres my list so maybe you wont feel so bad: New piston/rings WISECO New OEM STATOR/ROTOR/COIL/WIRE/RESISTOR BOOT/8 PLUGS/ROTOR KEY/ROTOR SHIM WASHERS/ROTOR WATER PUMP DRIVE/WATERPUMP SHAFT-SEALS.. New Dellorto 21mm carb New FMF pipe New main bearings/seals New OEM reeds And....the kicker here is, this all started from a fouled plug from running 927 @ 60:1 (way rich) Expensive lesson but hey, my boy has a practically brand new bike LOL!
  12. @mudmixer Not sure if its any help, but I finally figured my sons out last night. I had replaced his coil with an OEM KTM coil from RM. It ohms out 2200ohms per the manual. Spark was "meh" to say the least. The stator and rotor are also brand new KTM OEM from RM. I plugged his old coil back in, and bam....runs perfect now. You may want to try a known good coil if you have not already.
  13. SX INFO There ya go. 4.724409" tall with 2.480315" sweep. (converted mm to inches). Look on page 5 on the link above.
  14. Chart for bar dimensions/Height You will have to scroll down for the pro taper 1 1/8" bars. Im 6'5" on an 06 525 EXC. I run the PT contour windam mid bends as I do NOT like a lot of sweep in them. (pull back). I also run 30mm insert type risers on stock tripple. I really need another .750 of rise in standing position but I just leave it alone for now. Next bars will be the Renthal RC high bend as they have more rise and less sweep.
  15. Rode 50+ miles of an entire range of terrain this weekend at Red River Motorcycle Trails in Meunster TX. Worked best on rocks and hard pack. Its basically a rock grappling hook! Hit some granite rock area right after pushing thru a soupy silt filled rut and even with wet silt dripping off the tire it griped on the rock yielding instant wheelies. Surprisingly, it worked very well in mud as well. I ended up in some very flogged uphill mud ruts and it tractored thru/up them with very little effort. Now if I let the 525 eat, of course it would have just dug the rut even deeper. The moist clay was a joy to ride in at any throttle/angle/speed. It just hooked up. Front is a tractionator I/T @ 12# and it worked on everything and well even at low speed in the sand. The H/T on rear was very unpredictable on angled roots but Ive got 17# in it right now as I was not 100% confident that the bead was seated in one small portion. It is seated so I will lower the pressure down to 10-12 as well. In sand/powder, it was not better or worse than any I/T or H/T tire ive tried. I did notice that the bike does want to stay more vertical in the flat turns and takes a bit more steering input to get it to lay down and square off with throttle. For anyone that squares up with the rear brake and bangs the clutch on exit, it works great, but for the more gradual turning person, it could be an issue depending on the COG of rider/bike. Wear will be yet to be determined. I'm seeing some wear on the very edges of the lugs in the center but I did beat on it pretty hard this weekend in some granite areas and hard pack limestone pits. So far, worth every penny. If it last me a while, even better.