Skloops

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About Skloops

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    USA
  1. Well, just swapped out the pressure sensor with a fresh one, with the same result. This one definitely is lost on me - it definitely seems to be a fueling issue, but I feel like I've hit every major part in that system.
  2. So you were right about the vacuum leak - my injector wasn't properly sealed. Fixed that and it returned to running strong, with the addition of sea foam in the air box, of course. I tested the voltage and took a peak at the stator and everything seemed good. Judging by the stator's condition, I believe it was replaced because it looked brand new. What you described with the pressure sensor failure is familiar to how my bike has ran the past year. I always assumed it was acting that way because of it not being hot yet (maybe this did play a part in a way; usually within the first 15 minutes of riding), but occasionally the bike would stall after letting off the throttle and sometimes would die on idle at a stop light (again, no throttle input). Sometimes giving it throttle when idling, it would stall as well. However, it never bogged at regular/high speeds when throttle was actively given. According to the codes: 13 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Open or short circuit) - IAP Sensor open or short circuit detected - Can be started? Yes - Can be driven? Yes 14 - Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Pipe System) - IAP sensor-pipe system malfunction (clogged or detached hose) - Can be started? Yes - Can be driven? Yes Is Yamaha indicating, that the bike can function without the sensor all together? If this was the case, would the sensor be influencing the operation of the engine that much? (sorry for the noob question, haha)
  3. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll report back as soon as I get through these tests. Thanks again!
  4. Update - I took the injector out of the motor, while it was still connected to gas and electric and tried to start it. The spit seemed weak, so I ordered a new injector and threw that sucker in and it started up and ran for a minute or two and flamed out. However, the idle was quite high and the slightest throttle would bog down the idle. I feel like this is electrical at this point - ECU or stator?. Would anyone else agree with this assessment? Does anyone know if you can troubleshoot a bad ECU through the built in diagnostics?
  5. Straight to the point. Have had the bike for a year or so now, ran relatively strong besides some bogging and flaming out (only happened a few times) within the first 15 minutes of riding. Rode it home from work, everything seemed fine on the ride; next morning, wouldn't start. It turns over just fine, even got it to start for a bit, but would slowly die. Things I've done so far.. 1. Replaced the battery 2. Replaced the spark plug (check the spark and it seemed good) 3. Pull the fuel injector, cleaned it and it seems to be operating normally (hooked up the electrical with it out and turned it over - injector seems to open) 4. Replaced the fuel pump and filter - cleaned out the fuel lines and replaced the fuel Still have the same result. The strange thing is, I can get the bike running and stay running by spraying seafoam into the airbox and pulsating it every second or two. Once I stop supplying the seafoam, it flames out. Anybody have any ideas?