Rusty Craig

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About Rusty Craig

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  1. @ohiodrz Is the Needle Jet you're referring to the same as the throttle valve?
  2. Good to know I'll put the air jet back in. I texted the mechanic to see about the needle jet and waiting for a response. I'm at 940 ft here in TN. Will try the throttle tomorrow and see how it goes.
  3. It's not an FCR MX it's the older slant style. Do they still recommend putting the pilot air back in on those too? When you say slowly open the throttle do you mean when the bike is sitting or when driving down the road?
  4. Jets are: 200 main air jet 160 main jet 45 pilot jet pilot air jet removed I have pulled the spark plug and it isn't showing a rich condition when clip is at the 3rd position. I had it at position 1 and it looks lean on this plug right (see image)? The carb is probably and older one but it was rebuilt by a reputable mechanic locally. He did a full rebuild and replaced all the rubber that a lot of the fcr rebuilders don't replace because they don't have access. The bike starts easier and has tons of power it's just when you crank the throttle that it will cut out for a few seconds. Maybe I should cut the zip tie on the linkage and see what that does?
  5. Setup: DRZ 400s with 3x3 airbox mod Old style slant FCR 39 with EMN needle on position 3 MRD Racing exhaust with quiet insert and spark arrestor. Problem: If I punch the gas the bike will cut out for a few seconds and then slowly recover. It is especially noticeable when I get on it hard and shift from 1st to 2nd gear. Also really bad if I climb a hill in 1st and then shift to 2nd coming off the hill. It will really cut out when I hit the throttle hard and then recover over the next several seconds. Notes: - I have done part of the Eddie mod where I zip tied the ap linkage arms together (there is a slight bit of slack so this should reduce/delay the pump shot slightly). - I did not grind the diaphragm stop down because I wasn't sure if I should. It has an aftermarket Boyeson pump bowl on it and I think that bowl may already move the diaphragm stop some. It may also make the shot stronger? - I moved the needle from 3 to position 1 (more lean) and it helped the throttle bog tremendously (almost doesn't cut out at all now during initial throttle) but the bike still cut out slightly and felt like it wasn't as smooth mid-WOT. What I'm suspecting is that I am getting too much pump shot initially which is flooding the bike when I hit the throttle. When I made the needle more lean (from 3 to 1) I think it made it better because the overall condition was more lean and the shot didn't flood it as bad. Questions: - Could the Boyeson pump bowl be causing too much fuel to be shot and causing a rich condition on initial throttle? - Any tips on how to move forward? The carb is such a huge pain to take off so it makes troubleshooting insanely difficult.