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About vh2q

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  1. OK well my $2 relay arrived all the way from China including postage! Hooked it up (2 wire) and now the indicators blink ... but both of them blink whether I indicate left or right. Not sure why. 1. Maybe the indicator switch is faulty with a closed circuit between the two output wires but that seems unlikely. I will unhook one wire at the tail light and see if only one indicator works. 2. Maybe the wires are shorting but unlikely that both would be bare in the same place allowing a cross-current. 3. Maybe I hooked up the tail light unit incorrectly. It shows constant red when the bike is running, and then amber on each side (plus the red stays on) when the indicators are on. I can't see any logical way bad wiring would exhibit this behavior. Clearly, the indicators are wired to the indicator switch in some fashion. Each side (left and right) has it's own wire. Either way both of those wires are getting voltage when I indicate. 4. Maybe the (brand new) tail light unit is faulty, or became faulty when I ran it on the stock indicator relay (which lacks the required resistor). This is the most expensive scenario. 5. Or quite likely I just don't have a clue. Anyone care to comment?
  2. Well we learn something every day. I think my wiring harness is all there, I just don't see a place to install the brake switches. Someone with the same bike (or XL500R) should be able to tell me where they should go. I need a working brake light to make the bike street legal. I found a place online that sells LED blinker relays for about $4. That should solve the blinker problem, assuming the blinkers run off the regulated 12V DC power. There is a (green) ground wire in the wiring harness under the rear mudguard, so I am assuming the other 4 wires are all DC. I suppose I can test that theory with a multimeter. The LED taillight works when the motor is running so it must be getting DC.
  3. Well a little research is always enlightening. My replacement blinker/taillight is an LED unit. Apparently it does not work with the two wire relay that's on the bike. So the next question is which relay should I get? I also read that putting resistor(s) in the turn signal circuits helps, but which resistor? (and that does not make sense as the problem is the LEDs do not draw enough current .. putting a resistor in series will reduce the current draw).
  4. Well yours is fixed so I am hoping you can help me fix mine. Same bike 82 XL250R. My headlight works both high and low beam. But my indicator panel does nothing under any circumstances. I can't find any switch on either brake lever that would activate the brake light, I have a new tail/brake light and of course the brake light doesn't come on when I brake. I can't even find the pigtails on the wiring harness for the brake light switch(es). The tail light (running light) does come on when the bike is running (I don't have a battery and don't see why one would even need one, since this is a kick start only.) Also my rear blinkers ... both come on when I hit the turn switch, either left or right and they don't blink, they are solid. (I don't have front blinker lights so maybe that's why? But you would think they would be in parallel). Maybe it's the turn signal relay. There is a green pigtail on the wiring harness in the vicinity of the relay but there doesn't appear to be any place to plug it in. The relay itself has two wires hooked up and no place for a third wire. Other than that life is great!
  5. Turned idle screw out (anti clock looking from bottom of carb) as far as it will go and it's better but still cutting in and out on wide throttle, so I assume there is still some kind of blockage in the main jet circuit. I did remove the main jet and tube, and cleaned them both chemically and mechanically. I am going to run through one tank of fuel with sea foam additive to see if that clears it. If not the carb has to come off again. It may also be the needle, I don't recall which notch I set it on back when I originally rebuilt the carb. I had the book at that time and I normally just follow what they say. I did not clean the needle itself as that would require more drastic disassembly so it could just be crud on the needle. So now to the electrical: I put an aftermarket tail light on this thing, it has the LED blinkers, running light, brake light all in one unit. The problem is it didn't come with instructions as to which wire is which. Right now it's dull red when bike is on, the orange side lights come on (both sides) with either the left or right blinker switch so maybe the blinker relay is shot or maybe the wires are hooked up wrong, and as best I can tell there is no brake switch on the bike that would activate the bright red brake light when the brakes are applied. Since this is supposed to be a dual sport, I believe there should be a brake circuit switch but frankly I can't find any place one would go on either the front or rear brake levers, nor any pigtail in the wiring harness for it. There is a mystery loose harness pigtail (green = ground) in the vicinity of the blinker relay, but that relay has only 2 terminals and that's the correct OEM part. So I am wondering if that ground is for something else. And finally my muffler is pretty shot, the outlet is just a big hole with no baffle. Sounds great! At some point I am going to have to replace it. The originals are NLA from Honda and hard to find used. So I am wondering which aftermarket unit will fit this bike (same as the XL500R I believe).
  6. OK well in the process I pulled off the old tank (which I treated with POR15 about 10 years ago) since it now has a pinhole leak. The POR15 is also blistering inside the tank and needs redone. If anyone wants it, it's free for the asking but you will need to pick it up (near Abilene) or pay for the shipping (probably around $20 UPS). This is an 82 Honda XL250R red steel tank. No cap, no petcock, I transferred those to another tank I had.
  7. plunger was stuck due to chalky crud. it's not peeing any more but I have what appears to be an overlean condition on wider throttle openings. trying to figure out which direction on the idle air screw is richer, I think it's clockwise when looking from the bottom. anyway I will try that. I also need to take air filter out and check for mud wasp nests .. those industrious little pests built a nest in the muffler, several under the seat, on the fork etc. hate those things. but that would make it richer not leaner.
  8. Now for problem no 2. (This bike ran great before I parked it and forgot to run the carb dry). After I cleaned out the carb bowl and jets, initially it would only run with the choke on. I noticed I had turned the idle air adjuster to the wrong side (closed it down) when I put carb back together, so I turned the idle air adjustment anti-clockwise (open) about 2/3 of a turn and it would idle and run at low speed. I drove it around the yard a few times to get it warmed up. Fuel was getting down to the dregs so I put a tot of sea foam in the tank and let it run a while to get that into the carb. I then let it sit for about 5 mins to soak. Filled tank with mid-grade, added another dash of sea foam, and started her up again to clean out the carb. However she was dying unless I choked her. So I gave the air idle a tweak anti clock (open) and she would run and idle. Took her for a loop around the ranch, ran great on partial throttle, got her good and hot. But she would die on anything more than 1/2 throttle. And some backfiring from the exhaust. So can I conclude the carb is leaning out when opened past half? And how the heck do I deal with that? The jets are not adjustable. And never had that issue before the big duh. Maybe I need to close the idle air adjustment a tad but I fear that would put me back to square one. And yes I ran the carb dry when I parked her.
  9. Well took the carb out and partially disassembled it. My jaw dropped when I saw the crud in the bowl and jets etc. It looked like beige chalky clay and it was stuck to everything including the plastic float. I scraped most of it out, once loose it was just dry chalky dust and I could pour it out of the bowl. Cleaned the rest with solvent and used a tiny piece of magnet wire .010 to clean out the jets and orifices after soaking those in lacquer thinners. The rubber parts were ok including the float valve .. it was just stuck in its bore because of the crud. So what lacquer thinner does it is turns varnish into chalk. I have seen this on grease-caked gun parts as well. It seems to dry the oils out of the gunk leaving the solids behind. Live and learn.
  10. Thank you Eric ... that's what I feared ... but lacquer thinners contains toluene and acetone .. same stuff that's in Sea Foam .. I will take the bowl off and see what's up. I only left it in there for a few hours. Anyway nothing lost, I would have had to take it apart anyway.
  11. trying to get this bike back on the road after 2 years sitting. unfortunately it appears i left the float bowl full of fuel. it came out like coffee even though i had some stabilizer in there along with some carb cleaner. anyway after putting fresh fuel in the tank and flushing the bowl a couple of time it would still not start. i have spark and the top end is new (i rebuilt it, ran it for a few miles, and then put it away). so i filled the bowl with lacquer thinners via the inlet pipe and let it sit for 6 hours. drained that, flushed with fuel a couple of times. but now, the bike pees fuel from the bowl drain tube even with the drain screw tightened up. what the heck just happened? i see an o ring on the drain screw near the big end. i don't recall there being any gasket at the pointy end when I rebuilt that carb a couple of years ago.