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mike4414

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About mike4414

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    Pennsylvania

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  1. mike4414

    2002 RM250

    The rims are Black, both front and rear. They have normal wear and tear on them, and are NOT BENT! That being said, they are not brand new looking but in good shape. I’m really trying to sell the Gold Talon Hubs, the Rims and Spokes come with it as a package. Please let me know if you would like pictures. Thanks for asking. Mike
  2. mike4414

    Fluctuating rpm on decel

    You can disagree as much as you'd like, the way o explained to him to adjust his air screw is absolutely correct by Suzuki. Something I have to say about the people viewing this site. I have only been on here for a few days and all I see is people "disagreeing" with everyone's ADVICE, I thought that this site was designed to help others with ideas on how to fix issues. All I see is people wanting to disagree and argue. That's all...
  3. mike4414

    2002 RM 250 rear brake help?

    I have to same year RM and the brakes are great. Can you be a little more specific of what your brakes are or are not doing? 2 things I would do if I were you is change your brake fluid to Dot5, and while doing that, bleed your brakes in hopes that you may have some air in your brake line. You could also adjust the brake lever a little higher.
  4. mike4414

    2014 KX250F using a tonn of gear oil

    Never, this is a race bike only! During the week it is ridden on a practice track, and on Friday nights and Sunday's, its raced. Any and only wheelies would be off the gate.
  5. mike4414

    2014 KX250F using a tonn of gear oil

    I have not drained the oil to measure it, but have drained the oil to put back the proper amount. What had come out is about 1-2 oz. I checked it before racing 2 fridays ago, almost empty, checked it before racing this past Friday, almost empty, the 1-2 oz that I just mentioned. Thank you for your response.
  6. mike4414

    Fluctuating rpm on decel

    Start with the easy things first. Proper gas/oil mix, proper heat range of the spark plug. You mentioned that you did make a carb adjustment to lean it out, BUT to get your bike to absolutely run spot on in every condition (temp. altitude, humidity) you should adjust your airscrew before every ride which only takes less than a minute to do. Start your bike, let it warm up to proper riding temp (radiator cap warm), then hold throttle at 1/4 turn, while doing that turn out (counter clockwise) your airscrew. This will raise the rpms of the bike, DO NOT ADJUST THE THROTTLE TO COMPENSATE FOR ENGINE SPEED WHILE THIS IS HAPPENING. Continue to turn out your airscrew until the engine rpms stop accelerating. when it stops accelerating rpms, your bike is adjusting properly for that days conditions. If the rpms continue to increase after 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in, you need to adjust your jetting. Another thing I would check is to see if you have proper fuel flow, because if you've ever run your bike out of gas, the engine will rapidly fluctuate in rpms. You could also check to see if you have cracked reeds. Its sometimes a process of elimination. Hope this helped.
  7. mike4414

    Rm 125 top end? rings ? Piston?

    Highly unlikely the ring went into the cylinder in any way. As others have mentioned, if it was not properly broke in, the piston and ring did not seat properlu with the cylinder causing the rings to rapidly wear away giving you poor compression. If the ring is broken, most likely would stay in place, as the piston does not rotate below the cylinder itself to expose the ring allowing it to catch the edge of the cylinder walls and break the ring. Although the ring could possibly catch on the edges of the intake and exhaust ports, causing it to break, therefore not seating correctly and causing extremely poor compression. Hope this helps.
  8. mike4414

    rm80 burnt piston possible cooling problem

    The problem could be a number of things.... Easy things first, make sure that there is the proper torque specs on the cylinder and head bolts, if those are loose, you could easily have coolant get into the cylinder. If the bike runs, fire it up and smell the exhaust, if it smells like maple syrup, that means coolant is getting into the combustion chamber from the top of the head (replace head gasket with proper torque specs). If it doesn't smell like maple syrup then coolant could be leaking straight into your crankcase from the base gasket. Take caution because antifreeze will easily wash away oil from your bearings, crank and rod. My recommendation would be to change the base and head gaskets using the proper torque specs and also make sure you're using the proper gas/oil mix, and running the correct plug (heat range). Hope this works out for you
  9. For your bike to have a spacer would absolutely mean that there is a longer than stock rod in that bike.
  10. mike4414

    2002 RM250

    Would anyone have an interest in buying a set of wheels and tires? They are a set, front & rear Excel Rims, with Gold Talon Hubs, laced with Bulldog Spokes. They have used tires on both front & rear, half tread left. I'm sorry but I would not know all the years that they would fit, but I do know they will fit a number of years and models without having to purchase other spacers. Thank you.
  11. mike4414

    2014 KX250F using a tonn of gear oil

    Can anyone tell me why my 2014 Kawasaki KX250F is using roughly a quart of gear oil every other week. The bike runs perfect, NEVER smokes, does not leak on the garage floor. The only thing that I can think is that is that it is leaking from the crank case vent tube WHILE riding. That being said, it would have to have high crank case pressure to force it up and out of the vent tube. What would cause this bike to have high crank case pressure. Any and every thoughts are appreciated! Thanks everyone!
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