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Ride Engineering

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About Ride Engineering

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Making off-road & motocross bikes look, handle, & perform better!
  1. At Ride Engineering, we pay close attention to handlebar position and bar mount height. You’d be surprised just how much a few millimeters from stock can make to improve your body position and overall control. Keeping the bars neutral is another important aspect. By this we mean keeping the bars parallel to the forks within a few degrees. Drastically changing them by raising the bars 25mm+ or moving them forward that much can have a totally adverse effect. This article’s main focus is to explain where the “sweet spot” is for maximum control reinforcing the proper riding position on track or trail. Handlebars that are rotated too far out of parallel alignment with the forks can create adverse handling issues The first thing that you want to do is pick a handlebar bend that you are comfortable with. Typically, a lower bar will allow you to “muscle” the bike more, but it should still be relative to your height. For example, at my 5’6” stature I like the lowest bends. Currently, my favorite handlebar is the Husqvarna bend Pro Taper Evo. It's 80mm in height at the ends and a little less sweep that my old favorite, the Pro Taper Carmichael. If you’re a bit taller, you may like the SX Race bend with a height of 87mm. Those over 6’, may like the stock Honda bars at 97mm tall (Renthal 971). Since each bike is different, your favorite bar may still need further adjustment. For example, I love the Husky bar on a Husky or KTM with the stock bar height, but on the 2017 CRF450R, I preferred it 5mm lower. On my current 2018 RM-Z450, I prefer them 5mm higher. I tried the SX Race bend with the stock bar mount height, but they felt too tall for me, even though the net difference was only 2mm more. Also, due to my short arms, in every case I run the bar mounts in the back position. This gives me a good head over the bars posture and maximum control of the bike. Incidentally, the forward holes that come on a stock KX-F and YZ-F triple clamps are too far forward for most riders. Before you start shaking your head and tell me that the OEMs wouldn’t design it that way if that were true, let me explain further. Because they use a rubber mounting design, which I agree is way better than the old metal on metal system, they have no choice but to put the forward holes 25-30mm out. The rubber cones are over an inch in diameter, so it’s not physically possible to provide a second mounting position any closer than that. Remember, KTM used to have two positions. But back then it was only a 10mm bolt hole, so it was possible to add a second hole 15mm away. Then by using an offset bar mount you could make changes in 5mm increments. Now that they also offer a rubber cone system, they have eliminated the forward position all together. Ride Engineering bar mounts are typically made the same height as stock (except YZ bar mounts which are the same as the 2017 & older stock mounts and 5mm lower than the 2018) with plus or minus 3mm of adjustability forward or back. We also offer 5mm and 10mm spacer kits to raise our mounts (Ride bar mounts come with posts that unscrew to allow for a height adjustment or to replace in the event they are bent in a crash). Aftermarket bar mounts that are 20 or more millimeters higher that stock are going to put the rider in a less than ideal riding position. Neutrally mounted handlebars Many steering dampers also have this adverse effect. They mount over the stem nut and under the handlebar, so often raising the bar is the only way to make clearance (Ride Eng. offers a damper kit that mounts behind the front number plate, allowing one to keep the bar height standard). Some riders like to go on mellow trail rides for a couple of hours and have found really tall handlebars add comfort. The problem lies when you come across a rider heading in your direction or an unforeseen obstacle that needs an instantaneous reaction. A poor riding posture can contribute to a crash and getting injured. If that happens, any added comfort will be the last thing on your mind. Handlebar mounts w/ spacers Here’s how a few fast guys with a lot of riding experience set up their riding position: Sean Lipanovich Pro 5’5” - 150lb - 27 yrs old Years riding from 12 yrs old to present Slmxschool.com Current ride: 2017 KTM450sxf Sean has raced professional supercross and motorcross, finished in the top 25 at the 2016 USGP, won the 25+ class at the 2017 Vet World championships and now trains young riders for SL MX School. He’s always couching riders to “put your head over the bars, squeeze the bike with your knees and be on the balls of your feet.” “I run the stock KTM handlebars (78mm tall) in the back position (bar mounts rotated back) with the Ride Eng. bar mount that is the same height as stock with the bars neutral (not rotated forward or back) to the forks. I feel this gives me the most control of the bike to get on the gas harder.” Kris Keefer Pro 6’ – 170lbs – 40 yrs old Years riding from 9 yrs old to present Keeferinctesting.com Favorite bike: 2018 YZ450F At 24 years old, Kris started his testing career with Yamaha Motor Corporation which led him to a position at Dirt Rider magazine as associate editor, then eventually to Senior Test editor. Today he’s doing his own testing and pod casts as a new business owner for keeferinctesting.com. Throughout his career he’s raced professional motocross and supercross, the Canadian nationals, Vet World and Loretta Lynn’s. “I use the SX Race bend on my YZ450F with last year’s bar mounts (5mm lower) in the back hole with the mounts rotated forward. I like to keep the bars fairly neutral and coach others to do the same. If you have your bars rotated too far back, it’s harder to get your weight forward on the bike when entering corners. If you have them rotated too far forward where the ends are pointing up, you don’t have the right leverage to initiate the turn.” Ted Campbell Pro 6’ – 210lbs – 42 yrs old Years riding from 12yrs old to present Current bike: 2017 CRF450R Ted has traveled the world racing professional supercross and motorcross and has made many lifelong friends because of dirt bikes. He obtained his first pro national number in 1999 and kept a top 100 number for 6-7 years of his professional racing career. “I use the Mika Metal’s RC bend (this is a tall bar at 105mm), and like to set up my bike with my bars just behind the forks (bar mounts rotated back) in the neutral position so I can get over the front of the bike. I feel I have more control turning and it puts me more in the attack position. I run my bars back further than most being 6’ tall but it gives me the ability to really feel comfortable turning and leaning the bike over as I’m on top of the bars more.” Ted added a set of Ride Eng. CRf triple clamps which did lower the bar position 5mm and moved it 3mm forward from stock. Cody Webb Pro 6’ 3” – 185lbs – 29 yrs old Years riding from 3yrs old to present https://www.facebook.com/codywebb247/ Current bike: 2017 350EXC Cody is the 2010 AMA National Trials champion, 2014 and 2017 AMA Endurocross champion and has finished on the podium or won numerous other off-road races like the 2017 Erzberg Rodeo where he finished in 3rd place. “I run the PHDS bar mount system (these have +/- 5mm of adjustability) with the Renthal 996 handlebars (93mm tall) on Neken triple clamps with no added bar risers although sometimes I hit my knees on the bars. We place the bar mount in the forward hole (these have two 10mm holes for adjustment) with the bar mounts rotated back. If I have the stock clamps on my practice bike, I run the mounts in the forward position. I also like the bars just a hair rolled back from the neutral position.” Cody’s race results speak for themselves and his “average Joe” set up works great even for a guy 6’3” tall (he only raised his bars 15mm from the stock height). I hope this helps everyone understand regardless of your stature, you shouldn’t increase your bar height or move the bars forward too drastically. Small increments of 5mm is ideal. In many cases such as mine lowering the bars will be far more beneficial in reinforcing proper riding posture, getting your head over the bars and maintaining optimal control of your dirt bike. Happy riding. Adrian Ciomo President Ride-engineering.com Vet Int. 5’6” - 150lb - 53 yrs old Years riding from 14 yrs old to present Current ride: 2018 RMZ450 About Ride Engineering Ride Engineering Inc designs and manufactures the highest quality billet aluminum accessories to improve the performance of motocross and off-road motorcycles specializing in handling and braking components. The company combines hands on testing with feedback from past and present professional race teams to bring products to the average customer that are typically not available for sale. Located in Southern California, all Ride Engineering products are made in the USA. For more information on the company visit: http://www.ride-engineering.com/about.php
  2. Despite Brembo having a reputation for being the best brakes, it seems some of you ktm guys still want a billet caliper. perhaps I will consider adding a brembo application next year. although this seems confusing becuase half the comments on here say that replacing the caliper is going too far. The last comment is even more confusing: you say the price it too high for you to buy one, but then you recommend I add a master cyclinder to make it a kit that would sell for $750-800 (master cylinder, brake line, caliper). I can't justify putting more $$ into this product line until we see the caliper selling. At that point if people started requesting a master, we could make one.
  3. You're right I probably should be more familiar with the tech side (hydralic theory). However running a business with over 200 products between myself and one employee doesn't allow for a lot of time to be an engineer. Which is why I rely heavily on performance testing. I've been riding with this product and have had a lot of pro riders test it over the last 5 years on the following bikes: 2012 kx450f, 2013 crf450r, 2015 crf450r, 2015 rm450z, 2016 kx250f,2016 kx450f, 2017 kx250f, 2017 yz250f, 2017 crf450r. And due to a body that is 80% stiffer than stock (from flex testing), runs cooler becuase air passes through not around the body, and has pistons that are 1.5mm larger, I can tell you a rider will notice better braking performance due to a better feel for traction, more power when desired and less of an on/off sensation to allow less experienced riders to also benefit when using one. Can i feel less arm pump or hand fatigue? No not really, but its awesome to know its supposed to help! I really try to stay away from advertising something unless its plainly noticeable. One thing a lot of fast guys tell me is how great it works if you are a front brake dragger. I had a couple of MXA guys try it last thursday at Glen Helen. Both riders came away impressed. They want to do a comparison between a ktm 450sxf with stock brakes and an rm450z outfited with my caliper and brake lines. the lightest bike in class vs. the heaviest. which will win?
  4. DON'T MISS OUT ON RIDE ENG.'S PRE BLACK FRIDAY TO CYBER MONDAY HOLIDAY SALE!
  5. No I wouldn't say it does. I think the amount of pressure is comperable to stock, maybe slightly more. We are trying to get away from a "light switch" feel. Firm instant brake response may be easier on your hand, but if you slide the front wheel, its detramental to our goal for stopping harder without braking traction.
  6. I like the harescramble idea. I think there would be some interest there. Supermoto guys go for expensive radial brakes. Our application is not designed for excessive speeds nor the ample traction pavement provides. the extra feel our caliper provides when tire traction is less than ideal is one of its best attributes.
  7. Ah, no. Your bike will typically handle better with a stiffer rebound setting because the suspension is held down through the turn. A faster (more open rebound setting will put a lot of movement in the front and it won't settle into corners as good.
  8. I like your suggestions about adding a few bullet points on the caliper. we have an ad on vital, and it doesn't say much. Not sure if the extra text is going to clutter the ad though... Offset races are not easy to come by. I don't have a source for this. i'd have to see some of the factory ones first. make sure its something the average guy can install. Yes we accept racer resumes year round. everyone is welcome to submit to racesupport@ride-engineering.com or go through mxsponsor.com.
  9. If you guys get a chance to watch any of the Canadian MX2 nationals, keep a close eye on #12 Shawn Maffenbeier. He won the championship this year on his 2017 YZ250f with our 20mm offset clamps. The reason i say watch him is becuase some of the passes he makes are incredible diving under riders. It was so impressed how good he could corner with this set up! https://ride-engineering.com/products.php?d=1&p=bm&pn=YZ-TB04T-MB&t=yz yes the 2009 had 25s, at the very least you should switch to the stock 2015 22s...
  10. I'm a bit too late to this party, but here are my 2 cents on this topic. KTM went to a very progressive linkage for 2016-18 so they could use very light spring rates to save weight. Most people had to run a lot of sag with the stock linkage to balance the bike (108-110). Pro circuit's solution was to sell the complete linkage that would send people back to the conventional heavy rate springs found on Japanese bikes adding back some weight. So its a $450 mod with spring although I'm told it works good. Ride Eng. developed a longer outer arm to be used with the stock center knuckle for $220. The longer arm gets the bike balanced at a more conventional 101-102mm of sag. its also helps the shock push through that very progressive curve in the last 3rd of travel (getting rubber marks under the fender), while firming up the initial feel for a better response to the riders input as the bike is leaned into corners. Whatever spring is correct for your weight with the stock link, will work with ours. If you want to also get the shock revalved, we used a kyb piston that flows more oil. Our link also lowers the rear 7mm as a by product.
  11. Why? Our caliper is made to out perform a brand new crf450 brake system. I don't see the logic in ordering a cr caliper over one of ours especially since you have the honda master.
  12. As a manufacturer that actually makes our own hangers, i've seen a lot of these type of issues with hangers offered by companies like galfer and braking that don't make them in house. That said, you have an aftermarket hub, you may want to see if the hub as the brake tabs in the same position as stock before we blame them.
  13. If you mean what level of riding experience, anyone from beginner to pro will appreciate the way this caliper functions. Its more user friendly than the stock caliper when you grab it hard becuase the lever has to travel further to lock the wheel. But when you do get on it, the power is definetely there. When we test, we tend to use fast guys to really tax a product, so its hard to say what a novice would think of it. One of my Pro riders said the caliper allowed him to do a triple into the inside line of a corner that he could never do with the stock one. If he jumped the triple he had to take the outside line. As a vet intermediate rider, I've found it to really work well at the bottom of a hill into a 180 degree turn. You had to double down the hill and then get hard on the brakes if you didnt want to drift to the outside line. It out performed the stock caliper every time in this condition for me. I also had a friend whose an accomplished vet rider tell me how much he liked it going down the hill at Glen Helen on his KX450. Those models never seem to stop good. But I think the guys that appreciate it most are the ones that drag the front brake through corners. It now becomes a product that improves handling as well. I can't say what aggressive off-road riders would think? That might be a good test...
  14. Rocky Mt. told me it was set up. i will look into that. We have not made our caliper for ktm becuase of 2 reasons. 1) most people think Brembo calipers are very high quality 2) we have a similar problem as with late model Yamahas, they don't come with an 11mm master cylinder. KTM and Husky use 10mm masters. Yamaha has been using a 9.5mm master since 2007/8 on the YZFs. With Yamaha you can buy an 11mm master say off the 2014 WR450 for about $180 ,but now the price has just gone up over 25%.
  15. OEM calipers aren't a bad design. We have just made some improvements. 1) the stock caliper flexes .005" when applied. with our billet design, we have reduced it to .001". that's 80% improvement. 2) the stock caliper is cast to save $. our machined caliper has large openings between each structural rib to allow air to pass through keeping the pads much cooler. 3) We use larger pistons that create a different feel to the lever when mated to a stock 11mm master cylinder (found on rmz/kxf/crf). It provides increased stopping power over a longer pull. Thus your finger is better connected to the traction available at the front wheel. Braided steel lines make a big difference once your fluid heats up at the end of a moto. They don't allow the fluid to expand which keeps the lever engagement point in the same spot as when you first started your ride.