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MotardMadKiwi

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About MotardMadKiwi

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Family, 2014 DRZ400SM, Fishing,

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265 profile views
  1. MotardMadKiwi

    Dash lights too bright

    Just go to your local window tint installer and grab a piece of offcut from the bin. I will be doing mine but still busy with work so unable to get the time to work on bike.
  2. MotardMadKiwi

    Crankcase breather replacement

    Yeah, Tell me about it. Thankfully I have a well stocked V8 speed shop round the front of work so I could trot back and forth getting the angles and fittings I required. It wasn't meant to be that complex but once I drilled the hole in the crankcase and found I couldn't run solid alloy tubing without major f'''king around I just went with what worked. It doesn't look so out there once the radiators and pipe are back on. I hope to have it going soon as it is coming into our nice spring riding weather, but I keep having to go fix cars to help pay for this obsession of modify everything possible.
  3. MotardMadKiwi

    Crankcase breather replacement

    It pops out the other side and hooks up to a breather where the coil used to be. I will have to see how much mess it causes before I go to plan C or was it D
  4. MotardMadKiwi

    Crankcase breather replacement

    Its actually a fitting drilled back into the front of the case which exits in behind the cam chain guide. Hopefully it will spill back into the case any oil that exits the rear lower, before it gets to the breather filter, which is sitting where the coil used to be. ( coil on plug conversion) There is not a lot of room on these bikes for any extras. I am going to use the space left by the breather box delete for the second twin tone horn ( I like loud horns). I had the cylinder off doing the base gasket change so thought I would also have a go at this after much thought and deliberation. I also got the piston thermal and teflon coated while it was apart.
  5. MotardMadKiwi

    Crankcase breather replacement

    My breather delete started out as a completely different idea but morphed into this unique design. Still haven't even fired it up to see if it works or is a total waste of time and effort but it is one of a kind. As Eric suggests "No real reason needed to do it". My reason was because I prefer my crankcase fumes and oil not to be sucked into my inlet and it seemed like a good idea at the time. Opps to late now. Was to late when I drilled a 1/4"npt hole in the front of my crankcase.
  6. MotardMadKiwi

    Can not remove crush washers from either oil drain plug

    My favorite technique is to gently lock the hex head in a vice and then jam a small blade screwdriver between the washer and the plug and twist it to deform the washer so it will catch the first thread and can then be wound off. Would not recommend holding it in your hand while doing this as the many puncture wounds in my fingers and hand can attest to. Nissan cars have a one use crush washer that are really good at getting stuck so I have had a bit of practice.
  7. MotardMadKiwi

    Drz power trip

    I could get you a brand new E model today if you want to add shipping to $10k nzd ? http://www.colemans-suzuki.co.nz/suzuki-models Still really hard to even get E cams though.
  8. MotardMadKiwi

    Race Tech calculator missing years for SM

    I also have a 2014 SM and am about 215 also. I ended up with .51 fork springs by Ohlins and a Race Tech 6.3kg shock spring. The fork springs are longer by 20mm but the forks have a spacer tube that is easy to cut down. I haven't even got to the fitting stage yet but am tempted to run the extra 20mm preload. Let me know if you want the spring measurements as they aren't listed for a DRZ as far as I know. One of our local guys supplied them for my weight and riding. ( Robert Taylor @ Kiwi Suspension Solutions.)
  9. MotardMadKiwi

    Help Us to Help You. ( Minor Rant)

    Bit chilly down your way??
  10. MotardMadKiwi

    Help Us to Help You. ( Minor Rant)

    Don't know if this is out of place, but as I look through some of the post's to see if I can help, I can't help thinking that we seem to be missing a lot of basic info right from the start. Their are a lot of knowledgeable people that look through these post's that love to help fellow DRZers but a basic run down of Year, Model, and mods that might be of use in diagnosing the problem would be a great help. I haven't had a lot of time with my bike ( 2014 DRZ SM and more mods than I want my wife to know about. Purchased mid 2017) but I am willing to help with a background of 30 plus years fixing cars full time and bikes as a passion and a DRZ that is being given a good work over. Hope to be of help in the future. Rant over. Back to fixing cars to help fund my addiction.
  11. MotardMadKiwi

    hanging idle i just can't get rid of!!!

    While the head was off what did you do with the carb. If it was upside down/ sideways at any stage you may have a jet blockage. Your problem is most likely in the carb so work through that. as Noble stated the little oring in the top is easy to misplace. The only other thing other than carb could be air or fuel from another source. What's the Year Make Model. Steel tank with vacuum tap. Still have the Air valve??. Does the carb have the throttle limiter device like the NZ new ones?? Saying its a Mikuni is like saying its a DRZ. lots of different makes and models.
  12. MotardMadKiwi

    Loud turbulent 'airy' 'whirring' 'induction' noise

    Could be an over tight chain causing noise. Did you measure the chain slack on the side stand or with the suspension compressed. The correct way to check slack is to compress the suspension ( friend required or ratchet tie down strap) and align the front sprocket centre with the swingarm bolt centre with the rear axle centre. this is then the longest length of the rear suspension. If you missed this step it may be stressing the front gearbox output shaft bearing. Once you have the correct slack with compression you can take note of the slack when on the side stand.
  13. MotardMadKiwi

    Exhaust mod

    Saw a comparison test done in a lab on automotive air filters and the K&N was bottom of the list in every category ( ability to filter, amount of media it would hold etc, etc, except ability to handle being wet which is why a lot of off road truck racers run them. If anyone is interested I can find and post a link. It was linked in an article which had some funny examples of over oiled filters in cars. Hot wire airflow meters hate them but people still swear by them. First thing in the bin if I am trying to sort a rough running hotwire vehicle.
  14. MotardMadKiwi

    Nothing Wrong With The Yamaha Fuel Tap A Little Mod Won't Fix

    I was thinking NPT but the increasing taper made me nervous and then I saw the 10mmx1.0 fittings in the Aeroflow catalogue. Once the barb is ripped out its not much more to drill out so I was a lot happier. You can also get the hose fitting in a multitude of angles from 30, 45, 60, 90, 120, 150, and 180 degree bends. This meant I could pick the best angle for the job. (120) Also means no more pulling off a hose from a barb. I did consider the idea of running a separate fuel filter in the space on top of the starter but thought it more effort than needed. The screens in the Yamaha tap are a good enough micron rating I would think (hope) and our fuel in NZ is of a pretty good quality. For the breather box delete I have used 1/4" NPT on the barrel and rocker cover fittings as once again they are a close size once the barb fittings are yanked out. I will post my efforts for that once I actually have an engine back together.
  15. MotardMadKiwi

    Nothing Wrong With The Yamaha Fuel Tap A Little Mod Won't Fix

    Got to gap it. I have to go play in the traffic I love so much. Promised the wife I would be home early so she can go out. Will catch you later
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